Zed Head

Here's another place to call. They might have some advice. http://www.rebelloracing.com/index.htm

Not your typical tow hook car. There's a 72 under there somewhere. There's a driving video with spooky 60's surf music. The video seems like it's 1.5 speed, also like one of those 60's race car movies. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-174/

For the record, I just swapped a spare engine in to my car because I had one and did not want to rebuild the head on the engine that was in it. These things depend on what the owner is trying to accomplish.

I'm sure that you realize that any good machinist who heard you say that would take that as a challenge. Machines are just metal formed to do what we want it to do. There are pros and cons to everything. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/knurled-bearing-fit-how-engineer-324497/ If the machinist has to work on it then does it really "do"? A good machinist could just copy one of the existing caps to steel and get a perfect fit from the start. Remix doesn't even need a used part.

A modified 71 is on now. Not sure, the wheels seem too dark. No reserve and it's had a lot of work done to it. Probably interesting at auction end. It's in Greece and has been on BAT before. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-20/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-170/

Another good number for a modified 73. I think that "it just looks right" is a factor in getting a good price. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-155/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-04-21

Seems like a good time to think about how main bearings work. Materials, sizing, all that stuff. I remember learning how to use Plastigauge in high school auto shop but I don't have many memories of what to do if the numbers are off. Seems like all of the videos I've seen all have good results, nobody ever gets a bad number and has to fix it. Plastigauge has always seemed more like a confirmation tool than anything else. It would be interesting to know what people do if they get a bad clearance. Can you knurl a bearing seating surface to shrink a wide clearance? Seems like it should work. How do you tell if the bearing is square in the seat? If Remix tries different cap does he need to worry about squareness, or concentricity or roundness? Do any of those change over the of of an engine block? Don't know, just asking... It might be that manufacturing QA was good enough in the 70's that caps are swappable. Who knows. Found a couple of links. Looks like one "borrowed" from the other. https://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=engine_bearing_materials https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/tech-choosing-the-proper-bearings-for-your-engine/

$24,500 for a 78 2+2. Life is good in Z world. Clean and neat car. I think that the door bumpers that many people hate actually help the 2+2 lines. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-22-10/

Rockauto only shows standard size. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,engine,crankshaft+main+bearing,5220

Nissan sells oversized bearings. Not sure if they're meant for crankshaft or block. Maybe they're bendy enough for either. Probably want to see if they're available. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/piston-crankshaft/17 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/piston-crankshaft I'm seeing that it's probably doable but might not not worth it since another complete block should be easy to find and cheaper overall. https://rigiboreinc.com/articles/38/a-new-dimension-of-control-in-crank-boring-with-rigibores-auto-compensating-line-bar https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2006/06/line-boring-equipment-a-boring-subject/

For the record though, you can buy main caps for a Chevy small block from numerous places. You might call somebody like Datsun Spirit or Arizona Z Car, if you decide to try to save the block. They build engines. Might even have some used ones. https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/746/PCE289.1002/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9_mDBhCGARIsAN3PaFNMd6jy7Ofu06P4cJsdCpPw58lu4UozC605W25FcJdrOXT8lkmMhT4aAjA4EALw_wcB https://datsunspirit.com/ http://arizonazcar.com/

I think that the caps are considered part of the engine block. Not shown as available as separate pieces. A guy could probably go to a wrecking yard and find one then have a machinist make it work. But, it's still going to come from a used engine. I'd have the guy search his garage for that cap. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block

"News" programs are TV shows, funded by commercial interests, designed to get people to buy things. Whatever keeps the consumer amped up and buying is what the producers want. CO's post was a good one, but, of course, you have to ask who put the plot together. Another group selling news. Question everything. https://www.adfontesmedia.com/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_Fontes_Media

That makes a difference. Those are probably the factory springs then. There is a factory service manual in the Downloads section. Not sure if the ZX springs need much compression before removal.

They're harmless. They don't even have a real stinger. They just poke you with their egg-laying prong. They don't have nests to protect, all they want to do is make some holes, lay some eggs, fill the hole with some pollen, seal them up, then die.

And a very clean modified 77 went for $35,000. Didn't read through to find out what made it so special. That's a big number for a 77. Maybe it's the bumpers and the side lights. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-55/

Clean stock 73 went for $28,500. Still has the ready-to-blow fabric water hoses. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-154/

p.s. somebody has put some modified springs in there. There's only three coils. There's a certain spring from another car that works if it's cut right. Somebody has already been in to those struts. Is it one of those lowered to the ground cars? Might be that the shocks have been bottoming out and beat the heck out of that gland nut. Won't be surprised if they've been stripped completely out. The picture I posted above shows that there are probably only one or two threads holding the shock in the tube.

I was lazy and missed that, even though it looks completely wrong. As far as DIY for the PO, it's not terrible but does require some tools and skills. And, beware, the gland nut is what holds the shock in the strut tube, and the assembled parts support the weight of the wheel if the car is lifted. If you lift that corner of the car by the body shell the wheel will stay on the ground. A floor jack under the control arm would be the way.

Could be your compression rod (aka T/C rod) end rubber. They tend to rot and fall apart over time. Looking at your strut I'd say that's a possibility. Easy to fix if that's it. Stole a picture from BAT, #123 - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-155/

Hurry! https://fox8.com/news/budweiser-offers-free-beer-for-covid-19-vaccine-recipients/ https://www.mycooler.com/en/free-bud/register.html

Something completely different. Sorry.

Found it...

Trying to remember a different name from the past and found this one instead.

There's also the regional aspect. https://komonews.com/news/coronavirus/state-health-officials-fear-washington-is-seeing-beginning-of-a-4th-wave I used to just ignore the flu, only got a few yearly shots over the years when I had free time and felt like being extra safe. This COVID thing is a whole different animal.