Zed Head

I think that the "remaining pulleys" are actually the damper itself. It's a slight interference fit on the crankshaft, with a key. You might need a damper puller to remove it. Don't pull on the outer metal pulleys, they're attached to the hub via rubber. The damping material. A damper puller threads in to the hub and pulls from there.

California Datsun used to be Datsun Parts Limited. The guy that owns the business is named Al. He has a membership on this site as URGELIS. You can search the name on this site, and the former company name on the internet to learn more about him. His old business had a bad reputation for selling defective parts then refusing to make things right. Notice that he does not really address the major concerns with the headers. The port shape and the flange thickness. He does not show photos of either either, just s single photo of the view that doesn't tell much, with a universal shaped gasket. Get on to Rock Auto and compare things like distributors with the same parts on his site. Compare prices. https://www.californiadatsun.com/headers/datsun-nissan-z-240z-280z-n42-p90-e88-header.html

You do kind of have to admire his persistence. He has his game, and he just keeps playing it. He didn't show the dash VIN plate either. I wonder if it's one of those Frankenstein Z's now.

The driver's door is hanging a bit low, but the front gap looks close. Looks like somebody rattle-canned the front lower corner of the passenger door. Shouldn't you be able to see the engine bay ID tag in his picture of that shock tower? Blaster coil, fancy dual tipped exhaust, the rear end panel has been painted. Some kind of paper smuggling going on in the rear hatch lip area. Lots of not-quite-right. I'd want to see the firewall VIN. He must know about it, as a "Z collector". Interesting car. Of course, it won't be sold, per 01 usual.

That's harmony01 from eBay.

My imagination says that seal is not actually tight on the slip yoke. Can't really tell from the video. I notice that the aluminum seal seat is kind of dinged up also. Could it be that the tail shaft housing is cracked, or gouged? There are two sealing surfaces, one at the yoke and one at the housing surface itself. I used to have several shafts and transmissions out in the garage but don't now, otherwise I'd be out there comparing slop. Maybe somebody here can do that. And, more spitballing, there seems to be a lot of fluid up at the front of the dust cover. Still wondering where, exactly, the fluid is leaking from. Last one - the yoke seems like it should be seated farther in to the transmission. That would affect how much support the bushing gives it. Might be an illusion because the dust deal has been removed, but usually the shaft dust seal inserts in to the transmission dust seal. Your propeller shaft looks too short. There is a short version of the shaft out there that was used on the very early 71's. 1 1/2" shorter, I think. Is the shaft fully installed in the car or did you just stick it in there for the video? And, what happened to the dust seal?

Never heard of this brand, but it looks like an Italian Pantera. 351 V8 Ford engine, Italian styling. Z car + Corvette = 1971 Intermeccanica Italia Coupe. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-intermeccanica-italia/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-02-13 Weird antenna. Looks like a light pole.

It's still there. You have to hover over the picture, then see the little arrow things, then click on an arrow. These web site designers get so clever that they make their own work useless.

Somebody on the forum used one of these depth setting tools. They're pretty simple and you get it right the first time. You could probably make your own. https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/power-brake-booster-depth-gauge-tool

Just realized the orange 77 has no outside rear view mirror. That was probably the show stopper.

Very weird, an EFI, 5 speed 77, fraternal twin to the orange carb'ed automatic 77 is coming up. Red instead of orange. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-53/

The orange 77 with the automatic, fender flares, and retrograde to carbs only got up to $12,000. Under reserve. The message seems to be if you're going to modify - go big, or don't modify at all. p.s. I'm thinking that those tires probably rub badly. Not a bad look though. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-51/

The shifter mechanism is the clue. Compare yours with a 71B transmission.

I think it would have all been black if it came from inside. Could also be stuff that was on top of the heat shield under the intake manifold, if it's still on or some other ledge area that could collect crud.

There a lot of people making headers for theL6 but none of them are very impressive. Looks like a person would buy something close then do some grinding and maybe some filling to get them right. There's a whole separate eBay page for them. Many of these cheap headers rust out at the intersection of the tubes or are never completely welded up from the beginning. Plus, look at the cuts on the flange. Terrible. Looks like the center ports aren't even centered over the mounting holes. https://www.ebay.com/b/Exhaust-Manifolds-Headers-for-Datsun-240Z/33632/bn_20176001 https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-3-2-1-Long-Tube-Header-For-1969-1983-Datsun-240-260-280Z-ZX/133176095712?fits=Model%3A240Z|Make%3ADatsun&hash=item1f01e9f3e0:g:ajcAAOSwkydfYS69

There's a very similar discussion going on in another thread. Kind of confusing though, about what parts are being discussed and where they came from. Those ZCD headers don't have matching ports. Four round, two square. You want the ports to match the exhaust ports on the heads.

Is your picture from eBay or is it from ZCarDepot? You didn't provide an eBay link. https://zcardepot.com/collections/exhaust/products/header-exhaust-ceramic-coated-240z-260z-280z-70-76

About the bed of the truck? Looks like old oil and sand/gravel/nut shells. Old oil is generally dark like that.

The one that you have looks like it has the thick flange and is the square port that you want. The raised edge on the inside will actually create more sealing pressure, it's not necessarily a bad thing, if it's straight and even all the way around each port. I'd take it to a speed shop and see what they think. A bit of hammer work and a twist, followed by a surface grind might get it where you want it for not much. Make sure you get a quote first though, sometimes those guys will keep working til it's done and charge you by the hour. Or, there's this. https://datsunspirit.com/shop/hand-made-6-1-true-equal-length-stainless-steel-header-with-merge-collector/

The auto parts stores are all used to accepting returned reman parts. Just take it back and ask if you can look at the other units that they have in stock. You'll probably find one that looks right and they'll just swap it, no problem. Defective reman parts is normal.

So many. Hard to keep up. Burgundy 72, classy, looks very original and rust-free. The owner like Ford blue. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-166/

The guy had dreams... I already have well over my asking price in this car. Once restored, it may well be worth between $50k and $75k.

Actually, yours is a bit different. Still, wide audience. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-143/

Put it up on BAT with a wicked driving video. That last race car did pretty well on there. It was about like yours. I'll see if I can find the post.

Good luck. Funny that you don't own any Fords.