Zed Head

I modified my post above. I didn't put much work in to it besides writing many words. My reasoning was wrong. Need more details on what, exactly, is happening.

Reference point. $30,250 for a running driving 1971 project. Dirty, dusty, and in the middle of a densely populated metro area. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-354/

Appologies extended to anyone who read the below. Some of it is nonsense. I didn't think through the striking rod action, it can't act on two shift rods at once unless something is messed up at the other end, not the shift lever end. Illustration below. Plus there are check balls and interlock balls designed to keep the rods from moving at the same time. Really, your description just doesn't seem cohesive. The pieces don't fit together. Not sure what would break so suddenly to cause your symptoms. It was kind of hard to make sense of the description. When I read it I just assumed that the part above was a writing mistake since it didn't really fit the rest. But, if it's correct it implies, with the other observations, that there is internal damage to the transmission (edit - maybe as simple as bad shift lever bushings, see below. Don't know, just guessing). Tires up, brake off, there is a gear shift lever position which completely locks up the transmission. The fact that other gear shift positions allow the output shaft to spin or not spin with the engine continuing to run implies that other gear shift positions don't lock things up or do allow output shaft spinning. There's either something wrong with the observations or the writing or the transmission. I do know that it is possible to get the transmission in to two gears at the same time, locking it up. I don't know if that's possible using just the gear shift lever though, in an assembled transmission. It can happen if the shift fork rods are exposed but hard to see how the striker rod alone could do it since it is designed to work on one shift rod at a time. Maybe it's possible if something gets jammed in at the base of the shift lever causing the two rods to move at the same time. Spitballing based on the first post words. First thing I'd do is take the shift lever out and look in the hole.

The full double album's out there.

Z Car Depot IncSearch: 103 results found for "bushing"New, used, and OEM repair and replacement parts for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, and 510.

You might have bad shifter bushings. They are known to get brittle and fall apart. There are three of them, made of nylon or a similar plastic. Seems like the transmission is not actually in the gear you think it is. The dry clutch reservoir might have been a distraction. 31 and 32- https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed They are available from various sources, seach the part number. You can reach them from inside the car. Buy some extra clips/snap rings. You'll probably lose a few. Part # 29.

Yes, thanks Mitchel. I'm no expert but considering that he made it to the hospital and was under their care it would be a surprise if things went wrong. I hope he has family and/or friends around, besides us here on the internet.

Here's a similar car, linked below. Read the comments and the description and you'll see what people are looking for. A 1972 240Z is not super special so you might be disappointed in the offers if you're thinking of the 70 and 71 240Z prices. Beside that fact that the condition of the drivetrain is unknown, and it's an automatic. Maybe it was parked because the engine or transmission failed. Who knows. If you have the time and know some people it might be worthwhile to get it running and driving if you want maximum value. But, considering the 1996 tag and where it's been sitting, I'd expect all of the hydraulics to be shot, and the rear brakes stuck, and probably the engine also. And it probably has mice living in it. So, lots of work involved. Hate to be a buzzkill but that's just the reality of all old cars that sit for years. If you can haul it over to close to I-5 you might get more people to come take a look. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-354/

Are you taking offers up to a certain time? How will you be deciding who to sell it to? What's your process? Looks like some work to get it to a populated area. Could be a fun adventure though. Good luck.

Side note for discussion - once the throttle blades are cracked the engine is on manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum timing is an idle-only/throttle-closed condition. Any driving performance changes would result only from other timing changes. Here's a good old paper. Unfortunately, the SAE controls many of the publications and they're behind a paywall. Interesting titles and abstracts, can't afford to read them. Side note 2 - many states only check emissions at idle. https://rosap.ntl.bts.gov/view/dot/8798

Does it run better than with ported vacuum? You've described what you do but not why you do it. Edit - there's a ton of discussion about it out there but most (all so far) of the reasons given by the various internet participants are opinion, many based on peronal theories about how engines work. Haven't found a solid explanation for why it was developed in the first place. I'll keep looking...

People fill tanks with water then empty them to be sure there are no fumes inisde or use dry ice to get rid of oxygen and fumes. But, really, if you empty the tank and let it dry until you can't smell gasoline you're safe. If your nose works. I've had a chemistry class and have a good nose though so feel a bit more confident than some might. Stick a fan on the fill hole and let some air pump through it to dry it out and see how you feel about it. Then throw some lit matches at it to be sure.

It can be if you jump certain pins on the EFI harness. 1977 has the combined EFI and fuel pump relay that controls the pump and the injection EFI system. I ran an engine on a stand by doing that. There are probably instructions out there but it's probably simplest to just look at the wiring diagrams. Or, you could remove the combined relay from the dashboard and plug it in separately. Let it hang. Probably easiest. I've mentioned this in the past also but I had found that my EFI engines would not start if the tachometer was disconnected. That problem went away after I switched to a GM HEI module ignition system. In short - remove the combined pump and EFI relay, separate the harness from the dash, plug it in and see what happens. Then unplug the tachometer and see if it starts. If it does, you should be good to go. Worst case, the shop has to push.

Find a local racer's forum. Maybe PIR has one.

Actually this could mean that the power transistor or the wiring is bad. No offense but can't tell if youre using twists and electrical tape, or crimps, or soldering. You can check the control wire from the computer directly at the power transistor connection. That will tell you if the computer is controlling the power transistor. I'm not sure which of the three wires is the control wire. But you can see from the circuit diagram that one pin is ground, one is battery voltage with the key on, and the other is the control wire from the computer. I think that it might be a 5 volt square wave, which should flash a test light, I think. That's what I would test. That tests the computer directly. If you are positive that injectors are squirting that means the computer is getting what it needs. You'll want to be sure the injectors are squirting, the computer won't squirt or spark without the right inputs to the computer from the distributor. At the PRW2 connector frm the computer, ID the ground, ID the battery power, the one that's left is transistor control. Test it for flashing when trying to start. It might even show 5 volts, off and on, if you turn the engine by hand with the key on. Not sure. @cgsheen1 has expertise with the ECCS's. He might have some thoughts.

Not familiar with the "fuel pump relay mod". Maybe you blew a fuse. Have you used a test light or meter to check for power at the coil with the key on? Do you have the service manual? You can download it here, linked below. The ECU has diagnostic trouble codes through the lights. Open the EFEC chapter. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/15-300zx/ Continued...

That sounds bad. Did you take a knock to your head? Hope things work out well.

This might help. Thanks to Blue 246. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Reset them to the narrower gap and the question should be answered. I can't recall ever seeing a Canada spec 280Z. Hard to say. Maybe they used the older ignition modules with the ballast resistor.

But this one is. 506 picture running drivable project 71. Mad Max hubcaps. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-354/

Doesn't look like they've submitted it yet or BaT rejected it. It's not there.

Can't remember if your ignition system is stock or not. 1978 is high-energy, big gap. Why did you decide to mess with the spark plugs if everything was working well? Your post of March 16. Is it running oddly? If you have created a misfire with a big gap it should show up on your AFR gauge. But a misfire will also cause non-smooth running. I'd guess that the engine is running differently for some other reason than plug gap. Maybe you bumped a hose or something. Maybe a mouse has moved in to your air fillter box. Worth a check. It happens.

Hot dogs!