Zed Head

I think that "dead head" and "return" refer to the style of the system, not anything to do with the regulator. The regulator itself will still bypass overpressure fuel back to the tank, or stop producing flow at a certain pressure value. So you could put the regulator back at the tank and run a deadhead system, or at the end of the rail. You could even put the regulator farther down the return line, not right at the engine or carbs. The regulator will always use whatever pressure the pump can supply though, so flow isn't a huge concern to the regulator. Any flow problems will probably come from the lines and filters along the way. The original system uses a blockage in the line, the orifice, because the mechanical pumps have an internal pressure limiting system, with the valves that open up inside stopping pressure buildup. With an electric pump I think the pressure range that they show is probably the result of voltage swings, which cause motor RPM changes. Idle voltage gives low flow/pressure, charging voltage gives high. So with orifice control you'll probably always have pressure swings in the system. But the needle valve in the float bowl should block that pressure from affecting carb performance. I've not really understood why pressure control is so critical on these carbs. The floats should rise, the needle valve closes, and the fuel in the carb is at atmospheric pressure, supposedly. The pressure in the fuel lines can fluctuate but the needle valve should be blocking that from the float bowl. Maybe the float design is weak. Maybe it's not the carbs, but the supply lines. Don't know but you don't see so much discussion about the topic for typical Holleys or Carters or whatever. They all use floats and needle valves. Here's a basic article from the global computer file system. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/the-answers-deatschwerks-responses-to-your-fuel-system-questions/ Does the location of the fuel pressure regulator matter at all in a return-style system? Does it make a difference if I run the regulator before or after the fuel rails? – Robert C. A true return-style fuel system places the regulator after the fuel rails. A dead-head fuel system places the regulator before the fuel rails, but on the engine-side of the firewall. As with everything, there are pros and cons to the different systems. A return-style system provides the most stable fuel pressure and the highest flow potential. This is the most common set-up for aftermarket performance fuel systems and is the best option for builds with really big fuel demands. Dead-head fuel systems are usually used when the customer has OE rails that have no provisions for a return line, and they don’t want the added expense of aftermarket rails and additional lines and fittings. They also provide a cleaner looking engine bay by eliminating some of the “unnecessary” plumbing. The only downside with this style versus return-style is they are more susceptible to fuel rail hammer and fuel pressure spikes in rapid transitions from high to low fuel demand. If I were building a 1,000-horsepower or bigger system, I would go with full return-style. In anything else, it doesn’t really matter.

I wasn't thinking that your damper had fallen apart. Are you sure that the pulley matches the spot on the hub that it did before it fell apart? Match the rust or paint marks, I guess.

That's what the keyway and key are for. Check the timing notch on the damper. Early 240Z's had several, 280Z's have one. And they might be on the wrong sides. Make sure new matches old or you won't be able to set your ignition timing.

https://zspecialties.com/ https://zspecialties.com/product/crank_pulley_rebuilt_70-73/

Do the flat mating surface on the backside also. That's the part that clamps it to the crankshaft. And be careful with the key in the keyway, I've read stories of them getting cokced and/or pushed out of place during installation. Many people use red loctite, just to the be extra safe. But Nissan doesn't call for any threadlocker. I'd just use blue. Nissan instructions make it "no big deal". Racer X and Zup know more, I'm just talking about the basics and things I've read. p.s. I would avoid getting any antiseize on the mating surface at the back. The bolt clamps that surface to the crankshaft and making it slippery will put extra load on the key, which is supposed to be mainly for locating, as most keys are. You want that friction. p.s. 2 check that the hub length is the same as the old one and make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out before clamping. More stuff I've read. Problems people have had...

Might be that the prefilter is already clogged, if the tank has crud in it. Make sure the AFM vane is opening like it should. Also, even though the engine started your timing could still be retarded. Difficulty building revs is typical of retarded timing. You need a timing light. You're at the small steps stage now. A bunch of them.

Once you get chunks of metal floating around in there things can get jammed up. zKars had a whole writeup on a transmission rebuild. Others have also. EuroDat comes to mind. Tools can be fabricated. There are basically two things that hold a gear in place once it's chosen, the balls in the adapter plate, and the inserts under the coupler sleeve. It's late and I might have picked the wrong words but overall it's simple. Making it all work right can be complex. Definitely doable, but challenging.

Cold start valve. You can just pull the line and plug it with a bolt and a hose clamp if you think it's stuck open. Find a good bolt and a good clamp and don't leave it long, it's under pressure. Your timing sounds like it might be retarded, The engine spins really freely. I've found that Nissan put marks on the distributor and adjustment plate, probably for manufacturing assembly, that will get timing close. Two lines. Line them up and see if it starts more normally. That is a lot of fuel though. I'd block that CSV before you burn things down/up. Plus, if you had an air filter in there it was probably soaked and blocking air flow.

Yes, your synchros (baulk rings) look terrible. Looks like one has been completely destroyed. From what I've seen, just over the few years I've been browsing Z car internet stuff, I'll bet that one of the bearings in the adapter plate is falling apart. Grab the shafts and wiggle them around while you try to see down at the bearing area. Check this recent thread out. It shows the aftermath. But the gears themselves seem very durable. Several people have just replaced bearings and synchros despite the damage and been back to like-new condition. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64776-280zx-5-speed-wont-reverse/?do=findComment&comment=613709

This is good BAT ammo, like asking for firewall VINs. Kind of bummed that the wave of Z's for sale seems to have passed by. Only a ZX is up now.

They smell different. Burning oil smells like burnt oil, too much fuel from the carbs smells like raw gasoline. Seems obvious, of course, but you have to have that in mind and take a sniff. And, if your oil level drops but you don't have leaks, that's a sign.

Kind of sounds like ignition timing. Confirm that the spark plug wires are on the correct cylinders and the timing is correct.

Automatic? Looks pretty rust-free. Interior shots would help your sale. You misspelled Oregon.

It's just an internet magazine, building a brand. Probably saw the high prices and volume of Z's on BAT, plus the "Green Monster" huge price, and felt the need to make an article. We all shouldn't forget that cars have always been about making money. It's business. Jamie Doyle, Publisher – A lifelong car enthusiast and collector, Jamie left the world of finance to start Sports Car Digest in 2008. Seeing the need for an online classic car publication, he founded the focused and informative journal to fill the void on the Internet. Since starting the online magazine, He is a member of the International Motor Press Association, https://www.impa.org/joining-impa/ JOINING IMPA IMPA membership is open to qualified (see below) automotive journalists and photographers, as well as public relations people who work for firms that: Manufacture, sell, service, rent or lease cars, trucks, motorcycles, motor scooters, automotive parts, accessories, lubricants, tools and/or equipment. Dispense automotive information and training. Operates a race, rally, or other vehicle performance organization or facility.

Just for fun I collected some pictures from today's Seahawks game. It's really weird how Pete Carroll is supposed to be a smart guy, but seems unaware of what pro football players do when they 're not training. Pete Carroll is 69 years old. The 2nd picture is funny. "Your nose dude, your nose!.." https://www.goodmorningamerica.com/culture/video/multiple-nfl-teams-report-covid-19-outbreaks-75022077

I wonder if @Carl Beck was involved, or even knows they used his pictures. Probably pulled words from his site also. Let's find out. And, just for the record, what's happening here is not really a big deal. It's called "vetting". Just trying to figure out what should be believed. They should have at least tied some real names to the article. There are 11 names before the "additional" guys. Additional Contributors: (click name for stories) Tony Adamowicz, Marshall Autry, Peter Brown, Len Clarke, Hal Crocker, David Ferguson, Vince Johnson, Csaba Kiss, Nathan Leach-Proffer, Rich Martin, Ed McDonough, Darren Pierson, Lee Robie, Bob Ross, Steve Rossini, Al Wolford, Simon Wright, Wallace Wyss, Marco Zanello

I always look for sources when I read historical articles, especially in today's age of Wikipedia expertise. Any professional writer knows that sources are the most important part of writing. They didn't have any at all, not a single one. And no "author" to contact about any inaccuracies. You can see that they, whoever "they" are, just surfed the interwebs and picked up scraps here and there. Zhome, Mecum, Nissan, etc. Some of the info seems to be from auction listings or auction house sales literature. The article is a classic fluff piece, meant to jazz up interest and sell magazines or get views. Sorry, I wish it was something worth referring to to learn from, but you might as well just make a list from their picture attributions and go to those sites. You'll be one step closer to the real source. And, besides that, they are essentially stealing from the sites they surfed on to get their tidbits. Without attribution it's plagiarism. That's what caught my attention. They surfed the web, scavenged material, and put it all together as an authoritative article, but it's really just a day's worth of web surfing, condensed.

The dust shield comes right off with the tail shaft housing. The output shaft is hanging free inside, no need to mess around back there. If you don't have even a tiny gap at the mating area with the adapter plate (the solid metal plate between the front and back) then it's probably just glued together with sealant. Give it some side to side love taps to break that seal. The FSM procedure is pretty thorough. Dust shield still attached.

Did it come part way off then get stuck or has it not even broken the mating surface yet? Pretty common to have to do some wiggling and shaking to get it completely off. Also, are you sure it's not a close ratio with the reverse lockout mechanism?

Fun to read but no references and no author. The disclaimer doesn't even really apply. Who knows where the "facts" came from. Can't really do a background check on Mr. Digest. Datsun 240Z: High Performance from an Affordable Sports Car December 29, 2020 by Sports Car Digest https://sportscardigest.com/about-sports-car-digest/ Views and opinions expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the position of Sports Car Digest.

I rejected some shoe ads now I have a new ad. Hard to reject this one though.

Here's a good combo. Dirty knives and ear wax. Mmmm... I wonder if Google lets you set up your ads to drive people to pay to avoid them. I'll start rejecting ads that I actually like and see what happens.

It's a weird thing. The more I reject it the more it shows up. Just had it on the top big ad and the little mini-ad at the bottom. I think it's AI gone awry.

And another. Something new every day... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1979-datsun-280zx-18/

Good eye, but it might be a ZX thing. Here's another one. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-16/