Zed Head

On the 1.5 coil without ballast or just the setup? Or both?

1978 "Black Pearl" 280Z. One of the commenters says it sold for $90,000 at Mecum before. Don't know how to verify that. Maybe requires joining. Edit - found it on the Hagerty web site. Weird that they disclose but Mecum doesn't. Pretty big number for a 280Z. https://www.hagerty.com/valuation-tools/past-sales/1978-datsun-280z/HLS30465279/b657ee1a-bc07-4eb4-b5b9-1f3c21b7e972#_ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-191/

Hate to be contrary but they actually recommend a 1.0 ohm coil for a six cylinder engine. Somewhere out there I think that they suggest that their newer models use current-limiting technology like the ZX and GM HEI ignition modules, which allow the usage of the lower resistance coils and removal of the ballast. Can't find it but I remember seeing it. Lots of good stuff on this page - https://123ignition.com/support/ I kind of miss the good old days of plain instructions on paper or electronic paper. But everything's going to the glitzy internet style. Here's their manual with color illustrations. https://123ignition.com/support/tuneplus-app-manual/

Since you've checked for spark and have it the tachometer needle isn't necessary as a diagnostic tool. The ECU gets the coil negative trigger signal on Pin 1 at the ECU connector. You can turn the key on check for voltage at Pin 1 to verify that. The simple test for the injector control is test lights of some kind. NOID lights are the common one but you can use an LED test light also. Connect from pin to pin in the injector connector and try to start the engine. The light should flash.

The thinking machines have not been perfected... https://komonews.com/news/local/study-finds-chatgpt-answers-inaccurate-and-inconsistent-washington-state-university-says-ai-articicila-intelligence-work-automated-cheating-layoffs-openai-technology-tests-college-school-prompt-accuracy

Nice looking 260Z auction ending today. Small bumper version. Edit - sold for $9,300. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-125/

Stuff happens and has been happening since people were invented. Trust but verify. Nissan admits falsifying emissions tests in JapanThe firm says tests at Japanese factories had "deviated from the prescribed testing environment". The CPA JournalThe Story of Boeing's Failed Corporate Culture - The CPA...In Brief The Boeing case is a cautionary tale of what can go wrong when a company fails to develop and implement sound internal quality controls that

Your logic skills have failed you in your writing. Maybe it was late. Writing on "a piece of paper" is not "direct evidence". That's the point of what Carl Beck has accomplished here. The piece of paper was not good enough. You're trying to claim a win on both sides of the debate. Taking credit for recognizing "now we know" while also claiming victory for the past "piece of paper" as direct evidence. You can't have it both ways. We didn't know from your piece of paper. But now we do know. No credit to you, all credit to Carl Beck.

What year 240Z did the parts come from? Was it a 1970? From your Zhome page - "applied to them 56 years ago-"

A couple of oldies that don't seem that old. Heard one on The Sopranos and the other on Breaking Bad. You're buying the wrong matches.

Sorry, that's my blunder. Didn't go back to the original. You did drop right in to the personality though. Excellent inhabitation of an AI personality. Scary. Or you're manipulating the bots.

Another good catch. I saw the comment and just thought it was a real person who didn't know what they were talking about. "butyl-based" AI nonsense. Odd phrases like "forum community". The punctuation looks good though and the words almost make sense.

If the tachometer needle moves when you crank the engine then your ignition module is working. Not sure how far the needle moves at crank speed though. The ECU gets its signal to open the injectors from the same circuit that the tachometer does. The blue wire from the coil's negative post heads off to the ignition module, the tachometer and the ECU, it branches off to each. Both the ignition module and the ECU are known to fail on the 280Z's, usually they give some clues first though. Don't overlook the "out of gas" problem. Easy to forget to look at the gauge when you're just doing garage work.

Are you sure? Do you have a cranking problem, or a fueling problem, or a sparking problem? I think I see the evidence of a wire nut on the thick one. Regardless, if it's not connected it's a problem.

Sorry. That was a bit much. Let's see what happens.

Okay. Two weeks, two years, it's all enough reason to be...

Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like "best guess". Not a huge deal, unless you're replacing something like an injector insulator. Be careful with the more demanding applications. Just exploring the internet. Good luck with your venture.

Not trying to pick on your company, but did they do any sort of scientific analysis? Many polymers look very similar. Most can be categorized by sight and/or feel but not specifically identified that way. I have some experience in the field of plastics. Was it "determined" or was it "probably" ABS? Just trying to learn more about your organization. For anyone wondering, this is along the lines of crimps versus soldering versus wire nuts. They all do the same thing but they're not all the same.

Edit - Seriously, not trying to discourage anyone. But I think it's more complex than it seems. There's not a lot to see about background on the UO web site. Those printers are everywhere. Good luck to him. This is not a decorative application. It's an enginered mechanical part. The material was chosen by Nissan for its ability to perform the function, for a long time. The wrong material could fall apart apart in two days. Who knows. Probably worth a shot for $20 and some time. Too soon to be excited about it. Too many ways to go wrong. https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/materials-guide/

Is there spring force if you push it in with a small screwdrive? The spring underneath might be fully extended since the button wore down. Wouldn't be a surprise if the center electrode from another distributor could be swapped in. Or the electrode and spring both. No reason for Mallory to design their own. They all do the same thing. Mainly posting because I like to fix things. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,ignition,distributor+cap,7120 Flamma! $7.26 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17652913&cc=1211993&pt=7120&jsn=770 Standard $11.20

By the way, pictures would be neat. Damaged parts for our viewing pleasure. If you have the time.

Don't do that! Somebody out here will know how to fix it. https://mossmotors.com/143-285-replacment-rotor-4-cylinder-mallory-unilite

Does anyone know what material they're made from? And have they been tested? The pcitures are only of a disassembled switch. Great that they're been reproduced. But no info on quality. Mr. Buzzkill

I would bet that you could repair the cap (it's just a conductive thing under a spring) and that a rotor from another Unilite would fit. If you want to keep the Mallory. The 123 guy was active here a few years ago. Maybe he's still out there. @123ignitionusa There's still a web site. That's a good sign. https://123ignitionusa.com/