Zed Head

I think it's across the whole classic car market, not just Z's. I follow some of the older muscle cars and other sports cars like the Sunbeams. Many are going RNM. Ya gotta put those speed parts in there! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-54/

I had a similar problem with the AFM switch once. There was a hair or a piece of dust or a bug wing stuck on one of the contact points. They looked closed but there was no current through them. I didn't find the actual offending item but the problem disappeared after cleaning the points like you'd clean a set of ignition points. It was a head scratcher for a while. Also had a problem with low idle RPM dropping air flow low enough to shut off the fuel pump. Probably why Nissan switched to the oil pressure/alternator switch later.

Or you can swap the bearing to the smaller one. Good luck.

In other words - it's a buyer's market. There should be some good deals out there. This one looks like it was probably a good buy. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-166/

Here's an interesting one where BaT relisted a car and said that the previous high bidder did not follow through, but they still show the car as sold on the first listing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-pontiac-firebird-74-2/#comments-anchor This is a relist after the vehicle was previously sold on BaT in July 2024 and the winning bidder failed to follow through with their commitment to purchase. This was not due to any fault with the vehicle. The winner’s participation on BaT has been restricted.

Oops, I missed that, even though it was right there, all alone. I couldn't imagine doing that so I didn't imagine that it might have been done. This is my second time assuming that things would be a certain way (see "dry return line"). I need to open my mind. He did use the word "this" above the picture. Oh well.

If you describe the complete sequnce of events, from starting to idling, it might give some clues. Wide open throttle adds 27% extra fuel over what the AFM indicates is needed, but it also adds a ton of air. And, even though you said that you used a timing light you didn't say what you measured, what the actual timing is in degrees advance. I would also watch timing while it's running. Maybe you have full time vacuum on the distributor when it should be ported. The numbers will have the clues. We need numbers.

Just curious but is that picture of the actual item or is it a stock photo from GRW? Why does it have a GRW sticker on it? Edit - I clicked the GRW link and see that it's not the actual part, it's a GRW part. You should show the part you're selling, not the GRW part. Also, you might want to show the front cover just to verify that it has one. And the clutch fork pivot. The small stuff that adds up. Good luck.

Firing order off maybe? Swapped wires? 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise.

Pulled a few things out of the recent posts. I misread the statement about the return line being dry. My brain converted it to vacuum reference line, I never imagined the return line to the tank being dry. Weird. If the gauge said 40 psi and you have the orignal factory pump installed then you might have had the system set up in "deadhead" mode. Doesn't matter now since you have the factory FPR installed again. If your timing light shows correct timng then the position of the distributor isn't critical. Common for the oil pump gear to be off a tooth. It only affects distributor body position. You are using a timing light to check timing, right? You're backsliding a little bit. Where are the details? Runs like crap is not very informative. At least you're making progress. It pays to be methodical.

How do you know the BaT sale didn't go through? The Facebook listing is after the BaT listing. Maybe Gindy is TopGun1. 15 weeks ago is about April 24. The BaT sale was on March 5. I might be missing the point...

If I was a Facebook person I would just ask directly on the group thread if any of the members are scammers. If your question gets removed that's a clue. Or send them over here to this thread. If the point of the group is to sell parts they should welcome an invitation. Anybody selling parts on the internet knows that scams are a concern. They shouldn't be offended. Successful scammers often make some good small sales to set people up for the big money-makers. Build the reputation then use it.

Datsun Parts and Accessories sounds like Datsun Parts LLC. Are they based in California? Post some screenshots for people who don't do Facebook. Can't see nothin' unless you join the private group. What's the point of Private if you're trying to sell parts? Makes no sense. Sketchy.

If swapping regulators worked I'd say you had a bad gauge and/or the adjustable regulator was plumbed incorrectly. 40 psi should have worked "okay", maybe even just right. Many people measure 40 psi on their stock regulators. It's higher than spec. but the old EFI systems tend to run lean. Sorry to be a buzzkill. It worked, apparently, but it's not clear why.

I'd make a plan and do the simple stuff first.

The fact that it starts implies that the wire back to the coil is correct as CO says. The tachometer, ECU, and ignition module are all on the same circuit. The fact that it runs best with the throttle wide open kind of implies that it might be super rich. That could be from a hole in the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm or if the coolant temperature senosr circuit is open/high resistance. You might do the Pin 13 resistance measuremnet at the ECU and see if it's in the right range. And pull the vacuum hose to the FPR to look for fuel. It should be dry. p.s. you can test the injectors using a jumper wire from the coil negative terminal. Attach a jumper, turn the ley on, and tap the wire quickly to ground repeatedly. Every third tap should "click" all of the injectors. Don't do too many "clicks", each one squirts fuel in to the intake system. This will test the wiring and the ECU function. It's pretty east and you don't have to listne over starter moise. Of course, you can also use Noid lights in an injector connection too. The factory way. But, hopefully not the case, you migth also have a bad ECU. They run rich as they start to die.

I think this low miles 76 might have slipped by when nobody was looking. $67,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-88/

I think I found a picture

A followup - The water temperature switch is in the thernostat housing. There's a wire to an eyelet that is supposed to attach to a mounting screw for grunding. The wire often breaks right at the junction with the switch body. The vaccum solenoid would be mounted somewhere near the front of the engine above the intake runners of the first two cylinders. Notice that the black wire is a separate wire with a bullet connector and an eyelet, to connect to a screw for ground. Easy to lose, it's just a short little wire.

Can't you just use washers or shims (fender shims can be swapped with the bolts in place) as spacers and try them in different spots until things fit right? Then take the measurement and get the right spacer in the right spot? Even after T3 tells you something you still won't really know until you try it. https://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html

The vacuum switch might be for top gear timing advance. It opens vacuum to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor in high gear. Retarded ignition timing is cleaner than advanced. It's an emissions thing, some people remove it. The water temp switch is also emissions related. It switches to the more advanced timing pickup in the distributor when the engine gets warm. If you don't have the dual pickup distributor it doesn't matter. I think that cars with catalytic converters might not have either of those, CA vs Federal. I had both. Too many pages to go through and figure out what exactly your collection of parts is. But you don't really need either of those things, by the labels you gave them. Just make sure that any loose wire ends aren't powered and/or are protected. . .

And if you click on the Fees link, it's dead. Edit - actually it's half-dead. You have to scroll down there yourself. But still nothing about withdrawing or changing your mind or penalties if you renege on the final sale. https://bringatrailer.com/how-bat-works/#seller-fees How Our Fees Work Sellers pay a $99 listing fee, with the option to add our Plus photo service for an additional $330. There are no other seller fees on BaT. Buyers pay a 5% fee on top of the final sale price to BaT, with a minimum of $250, and capped at $7,500. Contact us for pricing of our White Glove Service.

I looked around on BaT's web site but couldn't find a copy of the Seller's agreement. They should just post the full document on the site so everybody can see how things work. I assume that it shows up after they get all of your information. It's hidden to everyone else, apparently. Edit - I filled out the first page then hit Next. It just took me to another page that wanted even more info. You have to get all the way through before you know what the terms are. A pain. Follow the trail - https://bringatrailer.com/resources/submitting-on-bring-a-trailer/ https://bringatrailer.com/submit-a-vehicle/ https://bringatrailer.com/account/listings/new/?processing=0&tab=1

This is all "after the fact" detective work. I don't think that crshowers saw the inside of the engine before it was buttoned up. The stuff on the bottom of the oil pan might tell more than the stuff on the piece of foam filter. SteveJ's forbidden glitter would be there. . .

A coin in the picture would give a size reference. Magnified or not. Might just be old shavings from before. You might check your oil pickup tube screen also. If you haven't already. And, if you're still worried check the oil pump for damage. If there's stuff in the filter it passed through the pump.