Zed Head

Does anyone know what material they're made from? And have they been tested? The pcitures are only of a disassembled switch. Great that they're been reproduced. But no info on quality. Mr. Buzzkill

I would bet that you could repair the cap (it's just a conductive thing under a spring) and that a rotor from another Unilite would fit. If you want to keep the Mallory. The 123 guy was active here a few years ago. Maybe he's still out there. @123ignitionusa There's still a web site. That's a good sign. https://123ignitionusa.com/

I think that the cylindrical plastic piece had a barb on the end that was poked through a hole somewhere to fasten it securely so it didn't flop around. Might be able to find a picture of it in its proper location on BaT.

Here are some instructions about the later version of that system. Looks like it could be wired in different ways. I think that it intercepts takes the coil control from the ignition module and extends the spark generation. Or it can use the trigger from the distributor and control the coil itself. Might want to hold off until you're sure you know what problem you're trying to solve. Good luck. https://www.scribd.com/document/275126418/Jacobs-Electronics-Instructions-Pro-Street-Kit-372546-370506

The multi-spark is probably the replacement for the factory module although I think that it can be wired to use the factory module as a trigger. You need to figure out what you have. Look under the dash by the fusebox and see if the factory module is plugged in.

The guy that started that rumor, David Vizard, never backed it up with evidence. I had a Standard Products HEI module on my engine. Worked great.

The first most simple test is to watch the tachometer needle. I've not heard of anybody who knows how to diagnose and fix them although somebody could probably figure it out. But the replacement optons are so cheap it's probably not worth the effort. Here's a good how-to on a module replacement, with pictures of all of the parts inside. Who knows which part is bad. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/

If it happens again, take a look at your tachometer. The ECU uses the tachometer signal to determine when to fire the injectors. Failing ignition modules are a common problem with the 280Z's. You're describing two distinct problems now. Best to try to diagnose them seaparately.

Is this on a cold start or after restarting with a warm engine? The 280Z's have a common hot-start problem.

I was just about to say the same. On the 280Z's the relay is in a leak zone. Not good!

That is a typical Nissan crimped splice. There's no reason that power should not make it through, crimps are good splices. You should be able to test across the splice with a test light and/or meter. I would check the wiring diagrams and follow the path to the fusebox. Maybe somebody cut a wire for some reason.

I wonder if the big blast of uncertainty in world events caused potential buyers to be extra cautious. These are strange times. A shame. I think that they got screwed by the coincidence.

Looks like it's headed for the BaT classic two minute refresh-your-browser battle. Hope they don't go for the $250 increments...

The auction ends about 10:30 am west coast time, today. Should be interesting. There is a reserve set. Passion meets reality. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-353/#comments-anchor

Also had the thought that it would be cool to build the "Z as the original designers envisioned". Most product designs are whittled down from the original idea in order to make their production and sale economically viable. What did the original vision look like? Can it be produced using a 240Z platform? Maybe that's the Z432? Don't know. A ratty old 1973 model might be worth sacrificing for the cause.

Interesting comment on the auction page. Will S30.world be selling more restored 240Z's in the near future? Or will the focus be on restoring the cars of other people? I think that I've mentioned it before but funds have to come from somewhere. It is a business, even if driven by passion for the cars. Auction ends tomorrow.

The plan seems good, but the replaced/bypassed fusible links wouldn't cause a power loss. Unless the wire nuts aren't creating a good connection of the wire ends. The bypassed fusible links just remove protection of the wiring from the system. Things should still get power but the wiring will overheat if there's a short circuit. Might be that that's happened in the past. The voltage regulator is underneath the shelf (relay bracket) that the fusible links are attached to. Kind of hidden. Scroll down to the bottom of this page and you'll find a source for wiring diagrams and service manuals. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

I can see why you noticed since you were involved in the previous discussion. I have a vague memory of being "not interested" in the 2012 conversation. Since I had a 76 with the vinyl covered knob. I pulled up the old 1970 240Z Garage44 listing just for fun, to see what was on that car. Fine detail. The S30.world car is over $100,000 now. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-133/ Picture 123

Have you opened up the fuel lines around and on the engine? If you're lucky no moisture made its way up to the injectors. If it was mine I'd let the fuel pump run, with a few gallons in the tank, for an hour or so to purge the old fuel from the rail and injectors. If you don't see rust in the ends of the fuel rail. Download the 1980 EFI book and do the electrical tests. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

Here's a tip that might help for future posts. Add the details of your car to your signature. It will show up at the bottom of every post. Under Account Settings, if you click on your avatar at the upper right of any page when you are signed in. Don't forget to scroll down and "Save" after entering the information. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/

Curious, but how do you know this? I know that you picked up a 240Z a while ago so probably have an original knob. But where did you source the replacement? Looks like you could explore old photos on BaT and might find a point where things changed. The white rings on the knobs have different spacing so should be distinguishable from a distance. You said "replacement" but does this also apply to originals on all four speed knobs from factory cars? Was there a changeover at a certain year? Love a good detective challenge...

Looks nice. One of the tires is low on air though. I noticed another one below it, "similar items". Good old harmony01 is still around. Famous for not completing the sales. eBay1970 Datsun Z-Series Fairlady Z | eBayFind many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1970 Datsun Z-Series Fairlady Z at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!Asking a lot. Uploading Attachment...

I missed this. That looks like a fun project. Probably get it for $4000, I'd bet. Lake Tapps is just east of Tacoma and Puyallup. Looks like he lost the title but if he has registration you can get a new one in Washington. Kind of involved though. https://dol.wa.gov/vehicles-and-boats/vehicles/vehicle-registration/vehicle-title/replace-lost-title-or-registration https://maps.app.goo.gl/V9PgoNpEUvq7LcoE7

I wonder though, if it would have brought a larger bid at the auction if the owner had "unmodified" it. Put the performance parts on a 72 or 73 and have the fun, sell the 71 as original for the money. It's just an economics exercise.

Here are some old threads about it. Captain Obvious makes some detailed points about possible performance differences and problems in the second thread. You might find the reason that the PO switched the plumbing in the threads. But, really, the main difference seems to be the size of the reservoir. The disc brakes move more volume and the level probably drops faster as the pads wear. Probably could just swap the reservoirs and be fine as far as braking performance and maintenance. Choice seems to depend more on what the goal is. Points deduction at the car show. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/21826-brake-master-cylinder-240z/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66168-brake-master-cylinder-identification/