Zed Head

Okay. Two weeks, two years, it's all enough reason to be...

Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like "best guess". Not a huge deal, unless you're replacing something like an injector insulator. Be careful with the more demanding applications. Just exploring the internet. Good luck with your venture.

Not trying to pick on your company, but did they do any sort of scientific analysis? Many polymers look very similar. Most can be categorized by sight and/or feel but not specifically identified that way. I have some experience in the field of plastics. Was it "determined" or was it "probably" ABS? Just trying to learn more about your organization. For anyone wondering, this is along the lines of crimps versus soldering versus wire nuts. They all do the same thing but they're not all the same.

Edit - Seriously, not trying to discourage anyone. But I think it's more complex than it seems. There's not a lot to see about background on the UO web site. Those printers are everywhere. Good luck to him. This is not a decorative application. It's an enginered mechanical part. The material was chosen by Nissan for its ability to perform the function, for a long time. The wrong material could fall apart apart in two days. Who knows. Probably worth a shot for $20 and some time. Too soon to be excited about it. Too many ways to go wrong. https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/materials-guide/

Is there spring force if you push it in with a small screwdrive? The spring underneath might be fully extended since the button wore down. Wouldn't be a surprise if the center electrode from another distributor could be swapped in. Or the electrode and spring both. No reason for Mallory to design their own. They all do the same thing. Mainly posting because I like to fix things. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,ignition,distributor+cap,7120 Flamma! $7.26 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17652913&cc=1211993&pt=7120&jsn=770 Standard $11.20

By the way, pictures would be neat. Damaged parts for our viewing pleasure. If you have the time.

Don't do that! Somebody out here will know how to fix it. https://mossmotors.com/143-285-replacment-rotor-4-cylinder-mallory-unilite

Does anyone know what material they're made from? And have they been tested? The pcitures are only of a disassembled switch. Great that they're been reproduced. But no info on quality. Mr. Buzzkill

I would bet that you could repair the cap (it's just a conductive thing under a spring) and that a rotor from another Unilite would fit. If you want to keep the Mallory. The 123 guy was active here a few years ago. Maybe he's still out there. @123ignitionusa There's still a web site. That's a good sign. https://123ignitionusa.com/

I think that the cylindrical plastic piece had a barb on the end that was poked through a hole somewhere to fasten it securely so it didn't flop around. Might be able to find a picture of it in its proper location on BaT.

Here are some instructions about the later version of that system. Looks like it could be wired in different ways. I think that it intercepts takes the coil control from the ignition module and extends the spark generation. Or it can use the trigger from the distributor and control the coil itself. Might want to hold off until you're sure you know what problem you're trying to solve. Good luck. https://www.scribd.com/document/275126418/Jacobs-Electronics-Instructions-Pro-Street-Kit-372546-370506

The multi-spark is probably the replacement for the factory module although I think that it can be wired to use the factory module as a trigger. You need to figure out what you have. Look under the dash by the fusebox and see if the factory module is plugged in.

The guy that started that rumor, David Vizard, never backed it up with evidence. I had a Standard Products HEI module on my engine. Worked great.

The first most simple test is to watch the tachometer needle. I've not heard of anybody who knows how to diagnose and fix them although somebody could probably figure it out. But the replacement optons are so cheap it's probably not worth the effort. Here's a good how-to on a module replacement, with pictures of all of the parts inside. Who knows which part is bad. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/

If it happens again, take a look at your tachometer. The ECU uses the tachometer signal to determine when to fire the injectors. Failing ignition modules are a common problem with the 280Z's. You're describing two distinct problems now. Best to try to diagnose them seaparately.

Is this on a cold start or after restarting with a warm engine? The 280Z's have a common hot-start problem.

I was just about to say the same. On the 280Z's the relay is in a leak zone. Not good!

That is a typical Nissan crimped splice. There's no reason that power should not make it through, crimps are good splices. You should be able to test across the splice with a test light and/or meter. I would check the wiring diagrams and follow the path to the fusebox. Maybe somebody cut a wire for some reason.

I wonder if the big blast of uncertainty in world events caused potential buyers to be extra cautious. These are strange times. A shame. I think that they got screwed by the coincidence.

Looks like it's headed for the BaT classic two minute refresh-your-browser battle. Hope they don't go for the $250 increments...

The auction ends about 10:30 am west coast time, today. Should be interesting. There is a reserve set. Passion meets reality. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-353/#comments-anchor

Also had the thought that it would be cool to build the "Z as the original designers envisioned". Most product designs are whittled down from the original idea in order to make their production and sale economically viable. What did the original vision look like? Can it be produced using a 240Z platform? Maybe that's the Z432? Don't know. A ratty old 1973 model might be worth sacrificing for the cause.

Interesting comment on the auction page. Will S30.world be selling more restored 240Z's in the near future? Or will the focus be on restoring the cars of other people? I think that I've mentioned it before but funds have to come from somewhere. It is a business, even if driven by passion for the cars. Auction ends tomorrow.

The plan seems good, but the replaced/bypassed fusible links wouldn't cause a power loss. Unless the wire nuts aren't creating a good connection of the wire ends. The bypassed fusible links just remove protection of the wiring from the system. Things should still get power but the wiring will overheat if there's a short circuit. Might be that that's happened in the past. The voltage regulator is underneath the shelf (relay bracket) that the fusible links are attached to. Kind of hidden. Scroll down to the bottom of this page and you'll find a source for wiring diagrams and service manuals. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

I can see why you noticed since you were involved in the previous discussion. I have a vague memory of being "not interested" in the 2012 conversation. Since I had a 76 with the vinyl covered knob. I pulled up the old 1970 240Z Garage44 listing just for fun, to see what was on that car. Fine detail. The S30.world car is over $100,000 now. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-133/ Picture 123