Zed Head

People like the new Konis. And lowering will take some sway away. Konis and lowering springs are a start. Read the Koni thread. Urethane bushings were introduced for good reason as a replacement for certain bushings. But others are, I think, just taking advantage of the fact that they're rubber. Painting all rubber bushings with the "bad" brush. Decide what problem that you're trying to fix and replace bushings specifically instead of going all urethane.

If it's not right, replace. That's how you make an inexpensive sports car.

Can you see any signs of damage where the tube enters the casting? Maybe someone hit a curb in the past. I never realized how dependent the hub alignment is on that joint with the tube.

It might just keep sharp edges, and dirt and grime from wearing the bump stop out. It distributes the force more evenly than the ragged edges and holes of the gland nut.

The white disc was mentioned by AK260.

Which one? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21m

The white disc has been discussed before. It's a hot Koni topic all over the internet. Plug "koni insert white disc" in to your favorite search engine. Apparently it keeps the bump stop off the top of the strut. It's a bump stop landing pad.

I have read several threads describing how none of the "kits" that are out there come with good instructions. Everybody has problems, no matter where they get them. You should call the ZStore and get the instructions before you buy. Then you'll have an idea of how difficult the install will be. No reason for any seller not to provide instructions before buying. Most companies have instructions on a "Support" page on their web site. @Joseph@TheZStore

A closeup of the actual threads would be interesting. Are you sure the blue material wasn't actually a blob of threadlocker? It's the latest thing, pre-applied threadlocker, encapuslated material that breaks open when it's crushed. You see it on many of the things you buy through the mail now, unassembled. Screws and bolts with blue blobs on the threads. The automotive industry is a big driver of the technology. Perfect for assembly line work. https://nylok.com/

After 18 years you'd think there'd be at least one guy who did his very best to follow the instructions. Either ending up with success or mangled parts. He made that first post but never came back with what he did.

Maybe one of the MSA guys would be interested in knowing that, apparently, they are giving bad advice. Or they could show a control arm with the bushing pressed in to the old sleeve. This problem has been discussed for 18 years. Time to get it resolved, maybe? Has everyone been doing it wrong for 18 years? @Joseph@TheZStore Here's the parallel thread on Hybridz. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26687-front-and-rear-control-arm-bushing/?tab=comments#comment-205934

This odd. Why would they not give dimensions? https://prothane.com/tech-help-faqs/ Will I Need To Reuse My Metal Shells? PROTHANE™ has a complete shell program for most popular applications. Many of our control arm bushing kits come complete with a new shell. On some applications you will need to reuse the metal shell, so be very very careful when removing it from the vehicle. The shells them- selves are not a replacement item. If you do damage a shell during the removal procedure, you have a few choices: Obtain a used piece from a repair shop or salvage yard or purchase a new shell with rubber bushings from your local parts store. NOTE: We do not give out dimensions on our bushings.

Whatever happened to mattymatmat? He was so close to being the only person ever to try to push the bushing in to the remaining outer sleeve. Come on triple M! @mattymatmat

Check all of the connections in the vicinity of the distributor. Check the hoses too. Check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel. Watch the tachometer needle to see if it's behaving normally. It shows you what the spark is doing. Might be that parts on the engine are just starting to fail. You fixed one and just need to keep fixing.

I don't know much about how, exactly, the gauge and sender work but I do know that at cranking RPM pressure will be very low (it will be low at idle speed also when you do get it running), and the gauge does not react quickly. So you have a slow moving needle, which is barely going to make it to 10 psi, maybe, once it starts moving. The best way to feel comfortable is to get a mechanical gauge and either install it temporarily or "T "it on to the port with the sender. But, if you decide to do that you'll need to either get a BSPT to NPT adapter or booger up the threads on the gauge to force it in to the hole. You're right, it's a common worry.

And the Owners" Manual.

There are some numbers in the FSM.

I think that some of the face covering refusal is just normal denial of something scary and uncontrollable. Without leadership showing bravery and giving guidance it's easier for some people to deny a problem exists than to deal with it mentally and emotionally. At this point the problem seems endless, no solution in sight, so people have no reason to delay what they see as inevitable. And the lack of leadership is not just the bright shiny guy at the top. The silence from Congress is probably fear-based also. No one there is sacrificing anything for their constituents, just trying to hang on to what they have. We'll probably see many members coming out from hiding if they make it through the next election cycle, pretending that they were working behind the scenes to solve the problems. It really seems like the guys that control the country see the bulk of the population as "work-force", here to produce goods for them to benefit from. Trying to starve them/us back out to go to work. And 200,000 dead / 328,000,000 is only 0.06%. A small cost to keep the money flowing. 1,000,000 / 328,000,000 is only 0.3%. Peanuts. And most of them old and not working anyway. Dead wood. That's how some of those guys see things. Just numbers.

Your middle image is an R180.

Other vacuum hoses to check are the brake booster hose and the supply hose to the heater valve control bottle. And the hose to the emissions vapor canister and the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. Just pull them off and block the port and see if idle drops. Some of those arte ported vacuum, so shouldn't affect idle, but they might be connected to the wrong place.

I'm not sure these guys know that their market is DIY guys. And where do you get the "rubber burning" training to qualify as a specialist?

They kind of show a taper to get it started in their drawing. Maybe that feature didn't make it to the actual part.

You'd think MSA might offer a little more explanation after 18 years of the same issue. And, apparently, many many people doing it 'wrong', by removing that outer sleeve.

Check that AAR. You adjusted it to give a higher idle when cold. They don't usually need adjustment, the adjustment screw is glued after adjustment at the factory. I didn't say anything at the time because it would have just been a distraction. You might just need to set it back where it was. Maybe you have fixed some things since then and now your idle will be correct, cold and hot.

One of the first things that 240zadmire did was tune his AAR. Might need to adjust it back now. Tuning is an iterative process, often things need to be turned back to where they were. But before doing that you can just block the AAR hose, either pinch it off or disconnect it and plug it, and see if idle speed drops. If it doesn't there's an air leak somewhere.