Zed Head

You might be able to glue a stiff backing material on to it to get the pieces together and aligned then repaint the circuits using conductive paint. Looks like a tough project though. https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Conductive-Adhesive-Electronics-Circuit/dp/B086VMYK4Z https://circuitscribe.com/products/10g-brush-screenprinting-conductive-silver-ink-beta

That plastic piece just has to be for locating and protecting. It's just slipped in after the thermistor is fed in to the can and the wire is soldered to the bottom. Give it a tug. It will probably slide right out and expose the thermistor.

And, even more sad, they are applying for a patent on the process. Overall, it looks like self-serving work, taking advantage of the pandemic. About par for many of the big institutions right now. I'm jaded... https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/early/2020/08/07/sciadv.abd3083 Competing interests: A US provisional patent application has been filed by Duke University on 6/12/20. The authors of the current manuscript are identical to the inventors on the patent application. The patent information is as follows. Title: “Optical Method to Test Efficacy of Face Masks”; Inventors: Martin Fischer, Emma Fischer, David Grass, Warren Warren, Isaac Henrion, and Eric Westman; Application number: 63/038331. The authors declare no other competing interests.

A new study on effectiveness of different masks. Looks very sophisticated but the reasoning is simplistic and limited. Hopefully they or someone else will fill it out. p.s. it doesn't look like it went through any type of refereeing process. No outside experts looked at it before it was published. That's how the worst science gets out there. The assumption is made that small aerosols are worse than sprayed large aerosols. That is still unconfirmed. And they assume that all bandanas are of the same fabric and all fleece or gaiters are of the same fabric. Work like this gets big airplay because of the name of the university. I hope it gets some pushback, it's incomplete and irresponsible. So they've effectively crushed the wearing of all types of bandanas and all types of fleece or neck-gaiters. Scientists tend to get so wrapped up in what they're doing that they don't think about the bigger picture when they publish their incomplete studies. So much bad or non-existent science out there right now. You almost can't blame the Sturgis idiots. https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/early/2020/08/07/sciadv.abd3083 https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/suppl/2020/08/07/sciadv.abd3083.DC1

No offense to Dave, but is there more info here than for the ZCD thermistor? I'm looking for that set of DIY parts that a person could put together on their own. If he used just one bulb would he have the same problem that the ZCD sensor has?

Back to school. https://www.ajc.com/education/9-cases-of-covid-19-reported-at-north-paulding-high-school/OWH6MN7DZ5A2XDQMXX337AQEWI/

Condensers have one side to a positive source and the other to a ground. Pull your speedometer cable from the transmission end and while you're there you can pry the gear out of the transmission and inspect it. They do get chewed up sometimes. It's difficult to get the speedo gear assembly out, you might need to use pliers and a rag to protect the aluminum. Twist and lever to get it out. You'll probably bang your knuckles when it comes free.

Do you need two bulbs, more resistance, with that Toyota thermistor also?

You can't go wrong in replacing the weak original Nissan injector connection plugs. But the odds are that that's not the cause of your "skip". Good luck.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64113-weakness-revealed-in-the-gmb-and-spectra-mechanic-fuel-pumps/

Maybe they are designed to drain and fill slowly so that the light does not go on and off as I described earlier, from gas sloshing around. The little gas pump/robot symbol light came on, were running out of gas! Wait, it's off... It's on again! Nope...wait...

https://www.facebook.com/Pierre-Z-Service-Service-1426636707570435/

The Wayback Machine says that some of the 1999 pages are available on the web. https://web.archive.org/web/19990301000000*/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/

Maybe here? I didn't want to start a free trial. Might be in the archives. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/first-drives/2717486/Return-of-the-Z-cars.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph

Seems like they must have mentioned "200" on the first page. Poor writing to just drop the number in there with no prior reference. Do you have that page?

xkcd has better letters. Like you learn(ed) in drafting class. Back when they used these wooden splinters with graphitous material in the center to draw lines on flat sheets of cellulosic material.

A faint memory has crept in to my brain of colored stripes on the relay and maybe the plug. Very faint... Black and green? The funny thing is I also vaguely remember wondering why they were there. Maybe I missed it. Edit - I just looked at the picture and see a blue stripe. Maybe that's the one. I don't see a match though.

Is the throttle return spring intact? They tend to rust and break off. The throttle body itself has a weak spring but there is an external one also. You can check if the throttle is sticking by pushing the blade close by hand or lifting the gas pedal with your foot.

HIR, I haven't seen that comic for years. I don't know how he keeps coming up with new stuff. https://xkcd.com/ I seem to recall drifting away as his work took more work to absorb... https://xkcd.com/1010/

In other words - yes, we'd like to hear back. We love to see a win. If you can, give this link to your tech. He can download the book and use it to troubleshoot, it covers all years through 1980. There's a whole complete section on electrical tests.

The red wires at the battery have fooled many people. Nissan did that, not a previous owner. I must have looked inside the plug for populated terminals when i was working on my relay. I thought that they could only plug in one way. Having two plugs right at the same spot that can be swapped just seems way too illogical, especially for a part that highly engineered and complex. If I had a car here I'd run out and check, just to be sure it was true. Seems unbelievable, but, apparently it is so. Keep going....

I don't recall any problems getting the right plugs on the right terminals on mine. I think that they are "keyed" somehow. SteveJ, is that a suitable replacement for the Nissan combined relays? Is it available? I think that you were involved in the past in writing up a way to use two Bosch relays to replace the Nissan NLA relay. Maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0-332-514-120-Injection-Combo-Relay/dp/B005JCN1M8 The plugs might not be right but they could be made to fit.

The electronic ignition modules (where SteveJ said) degrade over time and overheat as they start to fail. One big clue is the tachometer needle. It will either get erratic, jumping around and not reading right, as the module starts "over-sparking" or it will just drop to zero even though the engine is still turning over, if you have a manual transmission. The distributors are not optical, they are magnetic, variable reluctor triggers. The pickup coils can also degrade and fail. The ECU's will also fail like you described. They usually run really rich, gassy smell, before they conk out. The short answer is that there's a bunch of things that can fail and cause sudden engine stoppage. SteveJ's link is a good cheap upgrade if you decide it's the module.

This might be the super spreader event of the whole pandemic. All a person can really do on the big scale is watch and hope. https://thehill.com/homenews/state-watch/510470-south-dakota-expecting-250000-people-for-sturgis-motorcycle-rally

One easy thing you can do is to apply power to pin 74 at the relay plug. You can jump wires right at the plug to do this. This will test the wiring all the way back to the pump. If you apply power to pin 74 but the pump doesn't run then nothing you do at the relay will help. Run the power through a light or a fuse in case the circuit it shorted. I like to break the big circuits in to small pieces. There is a plug beside the passenger seat that the pump power runs through. You can also apply power there is you get nothing at pin 74.