Zed Head

Would be a good idea to check the EGR passages. The sealing surfaces are known to corrode and leak.

For my 76 I found a length of repair tubing at OReilly Auto that was the proper length with proper fittings. You can use a piece of wire or string to run the bends and get the length. Take the old piece in to the store and compare to get the fittings right. Then I built a bending jig with a piece of 2x4 and some wood screws to get smooth bends. Just put the old line on the wood and place the screws, then bend the new one carefully. A fun project. Mostly thought work, the bending wasn't that hard. It's not restore work, I think the tubing had a green coating. But it was new when it was done.

Somebody got a pretty good deal on what should easily be a running and driving Z project. Half-shafts are easy. Fix those fuel hoses on the rail though. They look ready to blow. Maybe they'll join the club. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-151/

Nope, I am fully exposed. I did figure out one thing but not sure why it changed. My default language got changed to Spanish on BAT, when I clicked through from a GMail acct. Not sure why, it wasn't me. Took a minute to figure out, I didn't even know BAT had the option. Wonder why they chose just five languages.

Today, I clicked on a link from a Google search that led to a foreign lanaguage version of Bring A Trailer. Now when I click on a BAT link in an email notification it comes up in this foreign language. What the heck is going on? Why am I being taken to the "ES" site? Is it AI? It seems to be happening in transition, after the click. I can see the url when I hover over the link and it doesn't contain the es.

Here's another old thread with some pictures of what look like unmachined heads, except maybe the first one. You can probably estimate how much has been cut. Pictures of what you're working on would be neat. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63727-cylinder-head-numbers/ craZylair supplied these -

It made a Japanese web site also. https://plaza.rakuten.co.jp/hybrids30rb26/diary/200611160000/

Found a Youtube with it. It has handlebars. At 10:27 https://youtu.be/st6UWRe_Tuw?si=6tj1ToHsuf6xdlvX&t=627

Found an old thread... https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68671-timing-chain-tensioner-extended-too-much/page/3/

You can measure the head and install the shims without removing the head. It's hard to find the standard thickness though, I see a wide range of numbers reported out there. I'd thought that it was 108 mm, but not sure. Regardless, if the head's been shaved the chain will be looser if the cam towers haven't been shimmed. It's just a fact of machining.

The sprocket position (1, 2 or 3) won't affect chain tightness. It only affects cam timing. Did he have the head resurfaced after the damage? If so, did he use shims to raise the cam towers? If not, that could be the problem. https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-cylinder-head-cam-tower-shim-set-240z-260z-280z https://www.google.com/search?q=datsun+head+saver+shims

But, on the topic of parts, here's one that's close to that. Seems like it could be saved though. Could be a good starter Z. Cleveland, OH. Somehting funny. Whenever I cut and paste something from BAT, I get logged out. I wonder if it's an AI scraping prevention thing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-151/

It says turbo in the description also. The front end looks light though. I'd guess it's been harvested. But the hood might have value itself.

How does the tensioner look if you turn the crankshaft by hand and tighten up the tight side? That pushes all of the slack to the tensioner side. You could do the same by turning the camshaft sprocket backward. Tighten up the tight side like it would be on a running engine and see how loose things are.

Might be a turbo engine in there... Probably not. Portland, OR. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN1CZ04S5DX758897

The second one looks right. It's just power supply to the EFI system. Injectors and computer. Didn't realize that they used two big white wires from the fusible link to the positive terminal. I had a 78 parts car but didn't remember that. If the two green ones are there then I'd just fix that twisted tape setup.

Thanks @siteunseen 1978 is an odd year, they added another link. Two green links, side-by-side, with plastic connectors on the ends. Looks like they can't be had anymore, at least from the usual sources. Not sure what a PO did to yours, it looks like the correct links might be below that mess you're holding. Those two white wires look like they'd allow too much current if there was a short. I'd fix that. Here's the one wire setup for before 78. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/engine-room-(from-aug-76)/45 https://www.google.com/search?q=24022-U8700

Green (yellow) might be the best color. $42,000. Not bad. And it's only a remediation. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-409/

Going in to CO mode here - I think that you meant lock nuts. Jam nuts are those thin ones that you use in conjunction with a regular nut. They get jammed together. A jam nut is a lock nut but a lock nut might not be a jam nut. Found a decent web site with both - https://knappfast.com/fastener-knowledge/types-of-locknuts/

I think that if you remove the inside plastic panel you'll see where the wires go. The whole thing, not just the access holes for the bulb sockets. Looks like there's a junction to a single wire then to the ground point. Has to be close.

Pick, pick, pick! Man! 👺 Do you mean the hole should have the little screw in it? Like the "half-shafts"? There is supposed to be a hole, it just has the wrong thing sticking out of it? They look great! Especially without the saw marks. Like factree.

cold italian pizza

Is the engine fully warmed up before taking off for the drive? The auxiliary air valve holds idle speed up until the engine warms up completely . Sounds like he's taking off with the engine cold and the basic idle setting is too low. Turn the big screw on the throttle body to raise idle speed. You can do it by hand. And the thing with the game piece on it is what keeps the throttle from slamming shut. If that's been deleted that might cause a problem. It's not a vacuum nipple, it just looks like one.

The picture you showed seems to be a flasher for the turn signals. There are some good diagrams in the Downloads area that might help you. I don't think that the flashers have polarity, the current just passes through and gets turned off and back on as the bimetal strip heats and cools. Here's one by EuroDat for the 71 240Z, and the general Downloads area link for more possibilities, like the Owners Manual. Find the flasher and see if the wire colors match. Good luck. Car looks very nice, is your grandfather still around to see it? Mine is long gone but I still have good memories. Learned that the sight glass on the AC line on his truck was not meant to be pushed. SSSSssstt.... https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/79-wiringdiagramdatsun240z-1971-early/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

If you put your info in your signature people won't have to ask. Don't forget to save. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/ So, what are you working on?