Zed Head

Here's another. No need to go to the specialty shops, I think. https://www.kitsapvalueglass.com/

These guys look promising. They're in the automotive heartland (of the past). https://koolkatzautoglass.com/products/windshield-fits-nissan-1975-1978-280z-1970-1973-240z-1974-260z-oem-new https://koolkatzautoglass.com/pages/about-us https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Area_code_440

Here's a variation, maybe even the inspiration for (or vice-versa), of the Silvermine adapter flange. It doesn't have the 4 mm problem. Lots of other good details in the thread too. And he was selling them. Doesn't look like he's visited Hybridz since late May though. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128943-z31t-axle-swap-can-fit/#comment-1204163 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128951-fs-z31t-axle-adapter-flanges-for-s30-r200-slim-design/#comments

My point was just that I didn't know when "Silvermine" was introduced to the work. It appeared with no previous mention. They have a lot of stuff. Couldn't tell what you were working with. https://www.silverminemotors.com/collections/datsun-280z

JMortensen had a good suggestion over on Hybridz, years ago. He assembles his suspension without the spring and runs the hub through its full travel by hand. Might be worth doing to verify the problem Also note that for a reason that has not been quantified, the 240Z's tend to have binding problems with the factory u-joint shafts after an R200 swap. The only rational reason would be that the 240Z flanges project in toward the center of the car (less distance between flanges left to right) than on the 280Z's. In short, it might be worth confirming it's a 280Z problem and not just a 240Z problem. On the nut - you could tack it down with a MIG welder if you have one. It's easily accessible to grind off in the future. 200,000 miles from now.

Those dimples around the edge here could be detonation damage or foreign object. The damage looks the same, but it's only at the edges in your case where the detonations would be. Not a big deal, just an observation. What's the top of that piston look like?

Sorry, I misunderstood. You're saying it's a Trakmotive problem. But don't the Trakmotive axles come with the Silvermine kit? I don't know.

Hastings implies that their rings are not meant to be filed to fit unless they are racing rings. https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/

If the supplier doesn't know then they'll just keep disappointing customers. One of those weird ironies where exposing flaws helps the company. You've already said, in essence, that the Silvermine product(s) (undefined) has/have problems. Sorry, it's just the logic of the situation. Not sure that "on notice" is the correct term here. You might find that it really was you, not them. But, without the story it looks like them.

Can't you just post the details here? We want to know too...

Not sure if you mentioned the Silvermine package in one of your threads (it's hard to to follow along when you start a new thread for each sub-project), but if it's one with adjustable control arms you could also widen the track to get clearance for the axles. That's what some people do. And, since I'm here, might as well say that the u-joint halfshafts are actually pretty strong, Lots of guys run them with high HP Chevy small blocks. The CV axle swap was a neat idea when people were using Nissan CV axles but I'm not so sure that aftermarket Trakmotive axles are better than Nissan u-joint halfshafts. Not trying to be a buzzkill, just pointing out the aftermarket problem. That is also something to keep in mind if you run the u-joint shafts for a while. New aftermarket u-joints are probably not better than used Nissan u-joints. Anyway, looks like fun.

Haven't read the details but if you're planning a CX axle conversion you'll want to take good measurements if you're using aftermarket CV axles. Apparently they often have longer compressed lengths than the factory CV axles. People have had problems. Don't forget to use the axle shaft as the center for machining when you convert to hub-centric. Since Nissan used lug-centric they would have no reason to set a tight tolerance on the rough cut of the "hub".

Let's make some equine hamburger - https://www.zhome.com/History/ZCARPICT.htm

Does anybody have a better name for #5 than "Limb"? Can't think of one at the moment but theirs doesn't seem right.

The FSM gives an indication, if you assume that the draftsman put the drawing in the correct positions.

It's a good time to grease the u-joints on your half shafts. There are small slotted plugs in the Zerk fitting holes.

#4 might do fuel pump stuff. #1 might actually be the trigger wire for the ECU from the coil negative. By the diagram and the connector shapes.

The Factory Service Manual has the pinouts and the connector shapes shown in the various chapters and the wiring diagram. For #4. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Here's an old thread that talks about replacements. Big picture though, you could just use the wiring diagram and power things up to get the EFI system working. The combined relay is more complex than it needs to be. In 1978 they split the two relays apart. Were it mine, I'd power up the EFI system using the 1978 diagram, and use more modern methods for the fuel pump, like an inertia switch system. Or, just use 1978 relays and a 1978 wiring diagram. The two white wires in your picture are for diagnostics. You can ignore them. #1 is probably the ground wire.

When I posted the post above I had only read the last short post of yours. What you wrote here is a very good description of a failing ignition module. It's how mine acted as it was crapping out. Search "HEI ignition module" on the site for a cheap and pretty easy swap to a more modern, by just a little, cheap ignition module. You can also find them around the internet, but a used one is going to be on its way to failure also.

It will only happen when the problem is happening. The module gets hot and starts firing the coil at a higher rate than designed. Extra sparks out of time, and extra fuel because the EFI is controlled by spark. Let the module cool down and it works properly. Mine would do it whenever I got above 3000 RPM. I could cruise around at low RPM, get on it, and end up having to pull over and restart. The tach would show 4000 or so when I knew it was only about 2500, plus it was quivering and jumping around. Just clues to look for.

There was a statement earlier about affecting something when you changed the alternator. So, next time, if you try again, you can do some testing before swapping. It might even be enough to just wiggle some wires.

Seems like the basic questions is - do you have the proper voltage at the S pin, and is the S supply consistent during operation? The problem is overcharging. You can run a completely separate jumper wire from the battery positive to the S pin and see what happens. If things start working correctly then you can get in to the harness. If they don't then the alternator has a problem.

Edit - didn't see the title, it doesn't show when you read a post. Putting the details of your car in your signature makes it easy and consistent from post to post. Good luck. Can't tell what you're working with, looks like a 280Z, by the picture of the engine. Your problem description fits a failing ignition module pretty well. Does the tachometer needle behave normally while the engine is acting up? Or does it jump around and read higher than it seems the actual RPM are?