Zed Head

Was it even an auction? Looks like it was a set price. " 11/22/2013 Update: This 240Z has sold in less than 24 hours. Thanks for all the interest! We look forward to following the restoration! From 11/21/2013: This 1969 Datsun 240Z (chassis HLS30 00051) was built in October of 1969 and is the 18th earliest surviving 240Z in the world according to the Z Car Registry. Many of the very early cars were designated to be either factory test cars, press cars, or race cars from new, and most of these no longer exist. Car #13 was the first car sold to the public. This one will require a full restoration. There has been plenty of talk about where the Japanese collector car market is headed, and the earliest examples will be the most coveted of the 240Z street cars. The seller purchased a complete Series 1 parts car that is also included as shown below. The entire package shown is now available in Santa Barbara, California for $15k."

Does anyone know the details of the past infamy? Tried to find it on BAT but their records only seem to go back to 2015. The backstory makes the car more interesting. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=240z

Has to be a nice ride too. Potential buyers probably aren't bothered by the mpg's. $172,000 didn't get it, but they're working on a deal.

Series 62. Everybody's doing it! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-cadillac-series-62-convertible-10/

Another Datsun GTO. 240Z this time. No reserve! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-ferrari-250-gto-replica/

I was just having some fun. Not clear what your thread is about. The posts are kind of random. Good luck. p.s. I was serious about the red dot mirror. Never heard of it, never seen it mentioned.

Those fuses look pretty cool. You should save them as antique curiosities. Never even knew about "red dot mirrors". Are they a "Series 1" thing? 😈 Who stitched the boy's mouth shut?

Post #9 for anybody in a hurry...

Found an obscure reference to 51 but the links are dead. Post #8 and 9.

Not more details about the plan - more details about the car. Why do you call it a 69? I see a transmission but it's not an early 240Z transmission. The diff is intact but the propeller shaft is not there. What's up with that? The plan will be a lot more interesting with details about the potential of the car. Do you have the missing stuff or did you buy a shell?

Found a seal search web site for the internal repair option. Might be a skinny seal. https://engineering.timken.com/engineering-tool/seal-search/

You could mill the remnants completely off of the tail shaft and replace it with a tubular piece with an interference fit. The mani concern would be if it fits inside the dustshield of the propeller shaft. Namerow had the same thought, almost exactly. I'm slow...but I drew a picture. It would be much stronger.

Your wheel bearngs are loose. Even though there is a somewhat complex process for setting tapered wheel bearing preload, you can get really close just by tightening them by hand. Pop that cap off and turn the nut until it's hand tight. Your aftermarket lugs are so long it wouldn't be a surprise if they were bottoming out in the nut. That rust and corrosion on the hub should not be there, where the nut is supposed to be clamping the wheel down. That's a sign that the wheel is not seating on the hub.

I was trying to point at where the noise might be coming from. Your description, with the video of twisting the propeller shaft, implies a sort of rotating clunking noise. A bad u-joint in one of the half shafts could cause that. Another possibility is the transmission mount. You can get under the car and lift up by hand on both the tail of the transmission and the nose of the differntial. Both have a lot of leverage available. Get under there and move things around. Use a long screwdriver in the u-joint yokes to see if they're loose. They're tough, they handle lots of torque. Many possible causes.

Looks good and it will probably help you in the future. You need a column with results though. More detail too, like brand of injector, etc. Maybe even cost but you can keep that private. I had a spreadsheet for a while for my car. Realized the nickels and dimes had added up in to the thousands for the whole car as a project. $20 here, $50 there. Doesn't take long. Don't look if you think your hobby is inexpensive. It's probably not.

So it looks like a pretty good option. For a premium of $20.99 (in my case), 18%, a person gets the peace of mind of a brand new starter. WAI shipped to my place from Rockauto would cost $135.98. $11.99 Fedex ground. Driving to O'Reilly Auto for their only option, remanufactured, would cost $114.99. My hobbay was making the old stuff work but if I wanted dependability I'd go with the WAI, I think. Probably their alternator also.

The other two drive shafts. Sometimes called half shafts

Your diff mount looks in pretty bad shape. But it usually causes a clunk when shifting, not a constant noise while coasting. The play in the driveshaft (propeller shaft) is normal for the diff, if the tranmsission is in neutral. Can't tell if the diff gears are stopping the movement or the transmission. Don't forget the other two drive shafts. Four more u-joints.

https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/

You mean "are there are more than the three screws across the top edge?". Here's a 240Z.

Not 100%, but typically there are hook-like devices to hold one side and the screws lock it in so that it can't come out of the hooks. Not sure what exactly you're trying to fit. But here are some things that look like they might be involved. Modified your picture. I went to BAT to try to find an example and found that people are doing all kinds of different things. Might be worth browsing aorund to get some ideas. Many people just use the four screw holes, apparently. Naked plate. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/280z/?q=280z Some only have two holes and the bottom hooks.

This might affect starting but won't affect running. It's usually caused by a bad check valve in the pump or a leaking regulator. This could be caused by many things. Sometimes you just have to make a check list and run through the tests in the FSM or the Fuel Injection Book. TVS, AFM, ignition timing, clogged injectors, clogged muffler (not actually one of the tests), clogged converter (same), rotten EGR channel, and more, could be a cause. But without seeing all of the things that are correct it's impossible to make a good guess. This is page 6. If you made a file, like in Wordpad, or a Google spreadsheet and linked it so that people could see your test results easily, they could zero in on next steps. You could zip tie those injector clips on temporarily.

The carparts site is back up. It has some stuff. Looks like the parts taken out were half right. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/starter-motor/for-manual/to-sep-75

That test sheet is impressive. The mounting flange looks thick. Not a bad thing but I wonder if the bolts/screws are long enough. Might just be the pictures.

I think that this happened in the past and somebody here knew the guy that was running the web site. I guess that 503 is a server error? Anybody know?