Zed Head

Despite the fact that OReilly Auto is known as just another cheap parts store, I've been pretty happy with their return policy. I've even had parts replaced after they found the records on their own computer system. They have a record of all of the stuff I've bought on my phone number. You might try taking that injector in to wherever you bought it and asking for a replacement. In principle, the FJ707's should be more dependable than the FJ707T's. You could point that out when you take them in.

Here's more T stuff - http://www.standardbrand.com/media/1317/e443_digital-resources_standard_the_choice_is_yours.pdf

Standard Motor Products is on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/notes/standard-motor-products/smp-expands-standard-t-series-fuel-injector-offerings/10150184320653954 Here's some cool blow-ups of the injector innards. Don't forget that their job is to sell, sell, sell. When you scroll further down the page. http://www.standardbrand.com/en/products/fuel-injection-fuel-system/

There's a page on the Standard company's web site somewhere that describes the T series. I got the impression that the T series is just a cheaper version of the same injector. The economy version. Same rate and flow pattern though. The stock Nissan injectors don't use any kind of formed flow pattern. It's basically just a straight stream that blows up a little as it leaves the injector. Standard also make T series electronic parts, like ignition modules. Injectors are not "rebuilt", they're just "refurbished". Maybe back-flushed, ultrasonically treated, a new inlet screen might be installed, but that's it. If they're screwed up inside, rusted or whatever, that is not fixed. Barely worth doing with inexpensive injectors.

Looks like April might be the month of the D***. On the internet, that is. http://news.yahoo.com/photos/dilbert-slideshow/20150403-dt150403-gif-photo-050731574.html Edit - Darn it, I can't even depend on the filter.

No problem, you're welcome. Sometimes things are so obvious that they get overlooked.

Have fun. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

If you drove it much with the valve lash too tight you might have damaged some valves. "Burned", or warped. Without feeler gauges though, it's hard to see how your "old-school" guy could tell that the lash was too tight. I don't know if I'd use that guy. Why not take it back to the shop that installed the cam? You didn't address John Coffey's post at all. Could the choke be stuck? Seems like a carburetor problem. Three black plugs is too rich, not bad valve lash. I wouldn't let the old-school touch the car.

You can spend a lot of money on an E31 or E88 head to make it about like an N42 or N47 head. The N42 and N47 already have the biggest valves, not bigger but biggest. And, from what I've read, and from what little I know about it, none of the head options have very good chamber designs. And with dished pistons, there is no quench action to consider. If you have the parts and the math works out, the E31 and/or E88 can make sense, but if if you can find one, a stock N42 or N47 will give you everything that a valve replacement on the other heads would give you. It's already done. Seriously, Nissan has already done the work to make a head that works well on an L28 with dished pistons. Anything less than 44 and 35 is choking the engine compared to what the engineers calculated. Just adding for emphasis. A lot of the older racer knowledge was developed to stay within race rules, I believe. You don't need to do that. I would put a list of costs together and just pick the cheapest number that's still within your budget.

Wasn't trying to offend, just make a point that there was plenty there to get the job done. Tried to take the edge off with my edit. It would be nice if you could post at least one picture to match the eight that EuroDat has posted. Good luck with it.

Sorted means fixed? Who knows, when the problem is on the edge of being full time, maybe simple stuff like humidity plays a part. Spark doesn't care how it gets to ground, it's just gotta get there. Another memory from my super-economical past (high school) - I used to carefully lay out the old crusty spark plug wires on my chevy engine to keep the misfires away. Plug wires were too much money.

Just realized that it may not be the weights that set maximum centrifugal timing, but the the slotted plate instead, which seems to be part of the rotor shaft assembly. The numbers are stamped on the plate. It might be a matched set with the weights.

Before you chase you might just check the basic ignition parts, like the cap, the rotor, grounds, module connections, etc. What type of electronic ignition is it? Consider bad gas or a clogged fuel filter also. A solid overall tuneup before getting carried away might be a good idea. I remember once spending hours working on a car before realizing it might just need new spark plugs, Which turned out to be the problem. In your case, those plugs are pretty dirty. The carbon is a short circuit for spark. Once they foul, they're hard to get clean. I'd do a tuneup first.

Blue's car is carbs, the one you listed is EFI. What do you plan to do with the car after you get it?

There's nothing about mileage or engine/transmission condition. Title - clear or salvage. Last time it was registered. Passed emissions? Lots of unknowns. Just a 78 Z that sat in a garage. I would ask a lot of questions.

Thanks for getting back. Burned by the old "more is better" hopes. Were the old injectors a purplish-brown color? Turbo injectors without the turbo parts. "Turbo" has to be better.

Probably. But you never get just one. He has boundary issues.

Gap depends mostly on ignition system. Not cam shaft.

Too much information. I looked at some pictures and don't find anything with intermediate in the name, let alone a plate. Don't forget also, that there have been many types of distributors used on the Z's and ZX's over the years.

I had a collection of odd problems all happen in one day, hot start (unclear why), stuck fuel pump relay (had to use my pump switch to get home), and brake pads grinding on the disc (caught just in time), and one of them, just to confuse the overall situation, was that my tachometer stopped working correctly. It would just bounce around between zero and 500 or not move at all. I pondered living with it like that for a while after I fixed all of the other problems, because changing tachometers is a pain, but remembered that I had had to install a condenser on the negative terminal of the coil years ago, when using the GM HEI module with a 300ZX ignition coil. Since them I've installed another engine, a different module (same brand after I damaged the old one), and replaced the 300ZX coil with the proper GM HEI external coil. But never removed the condenser, even though I thought it might be unnecessary now. So I got out the meter to start checking circuits and instead found that the wire to the condenser had broken. It was just hanging there. Spliced it back together and the tach is back. Lots of words just to say that sometimes these old tachs just need some signal filtering. Maybe it will show up in someone's future search. I don't know why the condenser works, maybe one of the gurus can say, but it definitely does. I still have a good condenser, the stock configuration, on the coil positive. But without that extra one on the negative side, the tach refuses to behave.

Are you using a phone and can't see the pictures and drawings? I don't see how an airplane mechanic could not be able to get this done with what he's provided. Here's a link to several Factory Service Manuals. Open any Transmission chapter from any year, up to 1984, and you'll find many more excellent pictures. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals Just saying - EuroDat laid it out on a platter with some nice garnish, and now you're asking him to cut it up and feed it to you. Seems a little much.

A KYB deal. Doesn't seem to matter where you buy them. $10 per. http://www.kyb.com/40-for-4/

I've had this nagging thought that I should check the wear on my front brake pads but haven't done it. Recently I started hearing a mild crunchy noise while braking, especially at low speed. I tried braking with just the parking brake and no noise so took a wheel off. And decided it was time to install my new Posi Quiet ceramic pads. See pictures. The Posi Quiets have their own, already glued on, shims and are not supposed to need more. So I left the factory shims off and haven't heard a peep except for a touch of squeal when braking in reverse. But the stock shims did that too. So if you have squeal and can't get the factory shims, these pads seem to do the job. Everything needed is in the box, pads, pins, cotter pins, and anti-rattle hardware, and the shims are already attached to the pads. The Beck Arnleys did work great with the factory shims but squealed badly with the shims they came with. I got maximum usage from them.

Perfect time to measure. If it's 13.15, you'll know a late 77 or later half-shaft will buy you .39".

So that's you? It reads like you've already installed it in a 1976 280Z. Since coil charge time is still the limiting element, it will go to single spark at a certain higher RPM, just like MSD's system. Might be a little cleaner running at low RPM though. You'll need the coil they recommend also to get full benefits.