Zed Head

There's this - https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10151884802416671&id=143989191670 And there's a note in Humble's Restore book about Nissan allowing more extended length in the half-shafts in May 1977, by removing some internal parts. U-joint centerline distance increased from 13.15" to 13.54". Nothing about compressed.

Looks interesting. Someone from Canada with a 280Z has tried it, fairly recently, and seems to like it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-6000-6300/reviews/ http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/crn-6000-6300.pdf

Jerk forward or backward? What RPM? Stock 280Z EFI, all parts intact? Could be fuel cut at 2800 RPM.

From the coil. You can actually get the injectors to fire by turning the key on and grounding the coil negative terminal three times. It's a trick you can use for checking the ECU and its Pin 1 circuit.

If it is a typical facility, it's empty most of the time, and all you have to do is cut the lock to get in to anyone else's unit. It could even still be in the facility, just someone else's spot. He should put up his own cameras and he might catch a view of it eventually.

I wonder if it might not really have flat-top pistons. That would change everything. The dished pistons came with the turbo engines and P90 heads, so unless Jasper was mixing engine parts, the stock P79 configuration would be flat-tops.

Who is Jasper, and why was the engine built this way? Who made these choices?

On second thought, it could be the angle of the photo. Maybe check the ends for paint. But you can see that the last few inches of each end are normally bent to offer a flat seat on the perch instead of the point of the wire end. In your picture, the gap looks like the seat area is gone.

Those springs have been cut. Both ends should look like the top. A new set, uncut, might do the job. Word is that they drop height 1" from stock. The shock re-extending just means that the gas charge is intact and the seals are good. Hard to tell when shocks are bad. But if you mean that the shocks aren't damping bumps, allowing too much travel, maybe they need replacing. On the other hand, if they don't move fast enough, giving a harsh ride, maybe you need a softer shock.

Here are a couple of shots of what I mean. The 9.5 is a 1978 Dist. I have and the 11's are 1976.

Oh. So you do want to pull timing. In that case, the easiest thing to do might be to find a set of weights (and springs maybe) that have smaller numbers on them, and swap them for what you have. The numbers stamped on the weights are the max. distributor timing, which is doubled to give crankshaft timing. So if you have 24 degrees advance, the weights should be stamped with 12's. The notches in weights determine how far they move. The springs determine when things start to happen and how fast it finishes. I'd get some 1978 280Z parts, they typically have 9 or 9.5 weights. 18 or 19 total, so 33 or 34 with 15 initial. Somebody would probably mail you a set for a few dollars from an old toasted distributor. Specs. are in the FSM's, pick what you want and put some feelers out.

Just one of those lucky cases where thread sizes overlap. Be careful, since you're not getting full, proper, thread contact. You could damage the aluminum head. Actually, those threads may not be metric. But they would still be British. McMaster Carr has BSPT. 1/2" pipe plugs too. http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-british-standard-thread-pipe-fittings/=whyvyg

Have you looked around for an N42 or N47 head? Might be the quickest, easiest way to get to the 75-79 L28 performance level. Someone might trade you for one of those other three heads.

That's a good idea about the local news. They're running a story in my area right now about a 57 Chevy that got stolen. They're also running stories like this - http://www.kptv.com/story/28626948/missing-pink-chickens-dyed-birds-show-up-on-portland-waterfront?autostart=true

Not sure what you plan to do with 1/2" but the threads are metric. You can also connect the return hose to the supply line and put a kink in it, or clamp it. It doesn't need to be completely blocked, just mostly.

Might be available - http://www.courtesyparts.com/plug-p-237513.html http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/CylinderBlock/tabid/1598/Default.aspx (17)

Pondering how to make stone softer...

The flow bench would probably tell the story. Three runs; stock setting, loose spring, tight spring, with voltage readings. He must need a diversion by now.

The pulley charge might be big money for an unnecessary detail. Might be worth asking what the change is. You might find a used pulley or be able to make the old one work. On the fan clutch, are you sure the old one is bad? They don't seem to fail much. You might be more bulletproof and cheaper using inexact parts and adding a fan shroud.

If you have extra engine blocks, the block drain plug (under the intake manifold) is the same size as the head elbow. Here's another possibility, depending on why you're blocking it - the vacuum water **** (rooster) blocks water flow. You can leave the head hose connected and disconnect the vacuum supply. That's one, the return line still needs a solution. But you could loop the heater hose return line around under the dash, both sides to the vacuum water **** (rooster), which is closed. Just getting creative, only works if you have the water **** (rooster). Watercokc, watercock, water ****.

Are you restoring or just looking for something that works right?

Tach adapter for tach. Pin 18 to trigger injectors. FSM. Engine Fuel system.

Blue wire. Pin 18 (assuming 79 system).

Carbs? Yes? No?

I read a really interesting thread from long ago by a guy who tuned his car by butt-dyno and advancing timing until pinging started. Then he got it on a real dyno and found at that he was actually leaving power behind because the ping zone was not the max power zone. He had too much advance. You might be spending time on something that won't get you much. And as madkaw notes, "total timing sucks" really isn't accurate enough to act on.