Zed Head

This was my point. The whole thread revolves around guesstimating. Always fun to discuss cooling systems though.

Take it out and run it and see if temperature keeps climbing or if it just rises and levels out. Fill up the reservoir first so you can see if the level changes. Here's a question though - how can you be so precise on the temperature?

Where did you get it? What do you know about it? Does it shows signs of being apart in the past?

Not sure why you can't just, as my father used to say, "get with the program". You're refusing to follow basic maintenance guidelines. The Z engines are fun learning tools though. You can do all kinds of crazy things to them and they just keep running.

Cylinder pressures at engine temperature are much greater than the leak-down test. And coolant gets sucked in due to engine vacuum. For a problem like yours, where you're on the edge, it would have been best to start with a properly filled and maintained system. You started with an empty reservoir, but didn't really say if it was ever full. Most of us never see any change at all in out coolant reservoirs. I have often wondered on my various cars if it was even working, the change was so indiscernible. If a change did happen it would have been concerning. Empty would be panic.

Not clear how this could happen considering how the system works. How does the end of the shift lever get past the 3rd gear rod fitting? The 3rd/4th rod should be centered and therefore in the way. I see roll pins. Maybe something is loose.

Early on you were buying and trying different thermostats. Running without a thermostat takes the thermostat completely out of the picture. The thermostat is a heat control device, not a cooling device. If the rest of the cooling system without a thermostat can't keep the engine under the desired temperature then changing thermostats will never solve the high temperature problem. It was the fastest way to learn if the thermostat was the source of your problem.

Running without a thermostat was not suggested as a solution to the problem. It was suggested as a diagnostic tool. You chose a halfway diagnostic method. What's next? Good luck.

I wasn't making fun, I'd really like to see a brand new Nissan 1978 280Z hood.

Can you elaborate? It's not clear what you're saying here. Have you run it without a thermostat yet?

Not terrible. I'd like see the bonnet hood in the box. "I will throw in a brand new bonnet hood in the box"

It's the feedback from the O2 sensors that make the EFI systems cleaner (cleaner burning, leaner) and more fuel efficient (indirectly, overall, cleaner). Plus, the fuel trimming done by the O2 sensor controlled system allows the use of catalytic converters. Which makes the overall system even cleaner. It's just science and logic. The early EFI systems without O2 sensors and/or converters could be just as dirty as a carb'ed engine though.

You might be right. If you had the lines open the odds are good that an air bubble got in. But, since all of the work was at the top you could probably just leave the lines cracked and slowly press the pedal to move the bubbles out of the loose fitting. It could be messy. You won't really know until you try the brakes. It's possible that the system gravity bled while you were putting it back together.

Did you leave the hydraulic lines connected to the MC? If so, there wouldn't be a need to rebleed.

Actually, it was an RNM. Get yours out there quick!

I don't see any progress until spring. You seem confident in what you've done.

Patcon is right, heat won't work. The resin is a thermoset, like a 2K paint. Once it sets, it's done. Your best bet might be more FRP underneath. Fixture is so that it is where you want it and lay on some fiberglass strips with resin. They will be under tension after curing so should work well. The hardest, most important, part will be getting good adhesion to the material that has already cured. A boat builder/repairer should have the materials and know how. Or >>> hood pins.

So you're planning to sell them or hang on to them? Hence the rebuild? They look crusty. I'll bet when you get them apart you'll find that a simple rebuild won't do it. Somebody might buy them for cores though so that they can do the conversion. Good luck.

I missed your first post, I see that now. So, basically, you're planning the Toyota caliper conversion. Better study all of the fine details that EuroDat is supplying. Are you going to paint them red?

Think about converting back to stock. I don't know if the conversions involve permanent changes. I thought that they were just bolt-on pieces.

Good luck with that. Might want to see the cylinders, if you can get them apart, before you buy the rebuild parts. Pretty crusty.

Look at BE-94 in the Body Electrical chapter. Nissan really didn't label the chapter sections well. You have to stumble upon it.

There's a dirty crusty plastic panel inside the fender well that you have to remove. Easiest with the wheel removed.

This is not precise enough. You need the numbers. Yarb makes a good point about things that might be getting stuck. Buzzers, light switches, corroded relays, corroded switches. For example, the dome light has constant power. The light comes on when the circuit is grounded, either by pressing the light itself, or when the door is opened. The switch is in the door jamb (I think). You could also try pulling fuses and watching the current. Eventually you'll find the circuit or circuits that are passing the current to ground. I did take the time to look at the diagram and see that there is a lot of stuff that has constant power. And lots of connectors. Really looks like a PITA. The black and white diagram hurts my eyes to try to follow. One blink and you have to start over. That's why being methodical and taking good notes will really help.

Break it down in to pieces. CO narrowed things down above. Keep going. The most important finding so far might be that the problem is not a simple "replace a part" problem. Saved $30 on that VR probably.