Zed Head

Coincidentally, this was just created on another forum - N/A L28 to Turbo Conversion Question & Parts List Questions - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z Hybridz.org also has a separate sub-forum devoted to turbocharging the L6. Here's a pinned thread from there - The Ultimate L28ET Guide/What you need for 350+whp! - L-Series - HybridZ Not to drive you away or to lose a classiczcars member but there aren't many turbo conversions done on this forum.

The exhaust hanging ears and the speedo gear retaining bolt look like 77-79 5 speed. Apparently there is a shorter truck 5 speed out there. But, wherever it came from, if it was shorter than a Z car transmission (causing the shifter to be moved up), then the drive shaft would be too short also. It wouldn't reach. So if the drive shaft fits, then it's the right size for the car and you just have to work around the shifter hole problems.

That's about what mine does, 1976 280Z. It will sit right on 1/2 full with the trip meter from 100-150, then drop to just above E at 220 miles. So I get 100 miles above 1/2, 50 miles at 1/2, and 70 miles below 1/2. Consistently. Then I can get about 12 gallons in on a refill, so apparently I'm 5 gallons paranoid (early 280Z's have a 17 gallon tank). I've never seen the red warning light come on, don't even know if it works. I've hit 280 miles on the tripmeter, but it makes me nervous, even though I know that fuel is in there. Always calculates out to between 18.5 - 20 mpg. I need to take it down to the red light some day.

On the seals - one is rear, one is front. It's in the descriptions, in the OReilly link.

I get it. I just hate to see the old generalities thrown out there. They don't get anybody anywhere. Did you take a good look at the outside of the filter? Most manufacturers print some sort of ID marks on their products. It might be faint but it may still be there. Even just a part number will usually bring up a brand name on the internet.

That's a good warning about alibaba. Counterfeiting is a huge problem. That's why eBay is a "buyer beware" place to get products. But still, this path is well-worn. Much more productive to show where it was purchased so people can avoid the same fate. Otherwise, it's just buy two and use one after cutting the other open to verify quality. The first post, boiled down, is just "I cut open an unknown filter and found that it was of poor quality". That's all that's there.

This is just a water cooler gripe session with no brand names or at least a memory of where it came from. "Maybe it's a Fram" isn't good enough. If he paid a cheap-arse price for a cheap-arse filter, who cares where it came from. Value received matches value paid. Now if he paid good money through a reputable supply chain, like Autozone or O'Reilly's, then griping about counterfeits or the general decline of part quality is reasonable. But with no idea of where it came from, it's just complaining about a tummy ache.

Whatever you're using to host your pictures doesn't seem to work. At least on my Windows 7 / Chrome machine. Broken links.

No offense, but I ball-parked the items you listed and didn't even get to $1000. If you itemize your list to show how you got $2500 or even $1500, you might get more offers, or you might come up with a different price. The problem with buying everything is most people will only need 20% of what's there. Then they end up with a garage full of stuff they don't need. So really, you're buying a problem.

The flywheel will be difficult to pry because it is a close tolerance locating fit on the end of the crankshaft. It won't **** enough to help before it binds up. In the same vein though, maybe a helper wiggling and pulling on the fly wheel while you turn the bolt, or vice versa, might do it. Another thought - two plastic wedges on each side of the flywheel. Tap them in to where they're tight and keep tapping and loosening the bolt. The plastic wedge will keep some tension on the bolt while you try to loosen it, but will balance the force on the wheel. Might work. I think that I picked up a bunch of inexpensive little wedges from Harbor Freight. I just pulled a flywheel last week and they're a tight fit.

No ID marks at all on the outside? I'm going to go cut up an old filter right now if I can find it. Edit - couldn't find it...

Looks like you needs parts 1, 5, and 6. Good luck. Datsun 240Z/260Z Exhaust Tube & Muffler L24, L26 (To Jul.-'73) Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

The 90 degree turn in the first picture will kill the flow. You need to buy some pre-bent exhaust tubing at least, along with a muffler, so the guys in the shop don't create these kinds of abominations.

Bummer that you were short on time. Good though, that you got injector operation. Narrows things down a little more. I wish that you had run the other coil grounding test (three taps and a click). That would have shown if the ECU could work with the proper Pin 1 signal. Grounding the coil is like the best on-off ignition module signal the ECU will see. If you're going to have it towed if the 75 ECU doesn't work it doesn't really matter right now anyway. The 1975 and 1976 EFI diagrams are identical as are the the engine parts. Operation should be identical, it's probably just a different set of electrical components in the ECU box to do the same functions.

Rotsun appears at about minute 31...

I don't know whether to hope you need the ECU or not. If you do get clicks from directly grounding the connectors, then find on Monday that the 75 ECU gets the car home, there's somebody selling a 1978 ECU on Hybridz. Good luck.

I do know the shims make a difference. I thought the arrow pointed in the direction of rotation. Which appears to be up. Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Front Brake (Disc Brake)

That seems to be the case. I've recently read, on a thread on the forum somewhere, that some of contacts of the early ignition switches lose power for a moment when switching from Start to On. Something to be aware of.

Here's a little extra info, in addition to Carl Beck's. In case the unit doesn't come with its own or to plan ahead. http://prestoliteperformance.com/media/instructions/mallory/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf

People often overlook the bumpstops. Strut mounts (insulators) are usually replaced when they fail from the weight of the suspension hanging from them when the car is jacked up. You might consider the basics (for that many miles), like the mustache bar bushings, the differential mount, and the inner transverse link (aka control arm) bushings. All easy to get to and easy to replace while the back end is up. Also consider the transmission mount (called rear engine mount by Nissan). All of those parts tend to get loose over time and miles.

You didn't mention the basic test for air in the system, pumping the pedal. If you can pump the pedal up, there's air, if pumping has no effect there's an adjustment problem.

"Seems sorta sluggish" is relative. Is your other car a Corvette? Exhaust leaks and vacuum leaks are not the same thing. I would do a full tune-up before going crazy on parts. One thing that often gets overlooked, for people coming from the hydraulic lifter Chevy, or US domestic, world is valve lash. It's critical to good performance. Index of /FSM/280z

They are different, sometimes, in ways that I'm not clear on. But the injector grounding circuit is the same. It might give you enough to get the engine started and get the car home. I had a 76 and 78 280Z with exactly the same ECU's, but the number on that 1975 ECU is different. I only suggest it because it's cheap, $25, and might tell you something, if you get to the point where the ECU is the only possible source. The weird thing about your situation is that the engine ran when you drove it over there and then it just sat. The ECU is in a fairly dry spot and I think that they probably go bad from usage not sittage. Odds are something strange happened like your gas tank filled of water. It happened to EuroDat and he was using his car. If your guy decides to really go for it with some time, he might run a hose from a gas can to the inlet of the fuel pump with fresh gas. Especially if the injectors click.

A 1/2" spacer to make the body fit the tube is not much. And the fact the the spring is loose at full extension just means the Staggs have more travel than the originals, or the shaft is longer. Which could mean that you're bottomed out sooner. What you really want to know is the length of the shock, from bottom of the body to mounting point of the shaft, at full extension and full compression. Dimensions are hard to find, for any shock, and not many people consider the extremes, full extension and full compression, and what it means during usage. We're all accustomed to replacing stock parts so don't do all of the math that we should. If you can see the shaft you might be able to estimate or measure travel to bottom and get an idea of what's happening. If there's a boot/bellows on it will be difficult. Search 73598 (Monroe front) and 361002 (KYB front) on Rockauto and you'll see how things can vary (although that 14" stroke is suspect). Or just go to Suspension for a 78 280Z. You can be in the travel zone at rest but closer to top or bottom depending on which brand you're using. I've not seen the Stagg numbers although they might be out there somewhere.

I notice that you haven't mentioned your fuel map at all. Makes me think that you may not understand exactly how Megasquirt works. It doesn't adjust itself, you have to give it the right starting point, then tune it from there. It takes quite a bit of work to get it tuned right. Have you been on the DIY site? Spend some time here - https://www.diyautotune.com/faq/faq.htm