Zed Head

Yes, these have the 14mm o-ring seal and the top of the injector is about 6 mm (a guess) from the stream of fuel flowing past. No long rubber hose. That's an interesting question about what holds the injectors in place. The aftermarket aluminum fuel rails that everyone is using typically rely on the injector rail itself as a long rigid clamp on the tops of the injectors. As I was working on mine I was thinking about dangerous the whole setup is, with six large holes just waiting to spew fuel on a hot engine if the mounting brackets come loose. To your point - I didn't use the mounting seats but may reinstall them in the future. I spent extra time making sure my rail was secure. So the injector is exposed completely, just sitting in the intake manifold hole. Who knows, it could be a factor in heat transfer. If I use the mounts again I'll have to make sure the seal to the manifold gets enough compression. I'll take a picture and post it later. Here's a closeup of 5 and 6. The overall setup is very industrial. My hood generally stays closed. That's the fuel return line in front of the injector clips.

Thanks, I'm glad too, very glad. I didn't know the Standard brand had a different injector outlet. My BWD's apparently came from the same location, in South Carolina (another guess based on maps from their web sites), but have the typical single hole with a pin sticking out. Also, the end is covered with a plastic pintle cap. I wonder if Standard didn't incorporate new technology to produce to an old spec. with the FJ707T. What would be weird though, if the T is better than regular FJ707 for heat soak, is that the T series is the low budget line, according to Standard's description (no offense, I have some T series ignition modules myself, waiting as spares). That would be something if that was the case. Cure for heat-soak = low budget eBay 707T injectors.

I don't think that Pertronix even considers the Z cars as a market anymore. You have to search for an Ignitor by distributor number and none of the numbers I've seen listed for 240Z's show up. I checked the two FSM's that are available on the web. Also, if you open any of the instructions for the Ignitor I kits you'll see that one of the first statements shown is about leaving the key on. The Ignitor II is more like the stock 280Z module or a GM HEI module in that it has circuitry to prevent overheating, probably some sort of timer that cuts current if there's no action within a certain time. I'm guessing from previous reading. Plus they took out the warning about leaving the key on. The II also has "dwell" (current) control like the GM HEI and the stock 280Z modules. Plus you don't have to worry about resistors or ballast, just get a low resistance coil. If I was going to use an Ignitor, I would find a II that works. How you find one though, is the dilemma, if it exists. The Ignitor I is old technology but I guess place like MSA will keep selling as long as people keep buying. JEGS seems to think that this Ignitor II fits a Z distributor although the Pertronix site doesn't. It's a problem. Pertronix 91761 Pertronix Ignitor II Kits - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS Ignition Products

I might as well post this up. I just got back from a long drive, with several stops, and not a sign of the heat soak problem. I've made several changes but I think this would be easy for anyone to do, with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as backup for any tuning, rich or lean, that needs to be done. Since it's only me for now though, the risk is there that I just got lucky. Hopefully it's real, I don't want to cause anyone to waste time or money. I’ve been running more modern injectors (1989) for five days now, and they seem to be immune to the heat soak problem. Or the overall modified fuel system is. I’m using 14 mm injectors, Bosch 280 150 901, with the injector o-ring as a seal to the intake manifold, bypassed resistors (just link all of the wires from the harness together on each plug) since they’re high impedance, a straight through aluminum fuel rail (the typical type), and no injector mounts (the rail holds the injectors down and the fuel pressure presses the o-ring against the manifold for the vacuum seal). I have an adjustable FPR but it is set to 36.5 psi. I also have the potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit but it is set to zero. Previously, with my old original 1978 injectors, I had a very small amount of added resistance. So these may run a hair rich. Maybe they run the way the ECU expects them to run. I tested them three times right after installing with a drive then a 15 minute wait and restart, another drive and 15 minutes, then a long drive and a 40 minute wait, and since then just normal daily driving. They haven’t missed a beat, not even a hint of the typical heat soak signs. I didn’t put my cooling fan hose back on just to make sure I wouldn’t turn it on by accident and screw up results. I’ve copied below the links I used to choose the injectors and a few more to show the typical rail installation. Of course, with so many changes it’s hard to say exactly what made the difference. Here’s a link to flow rates and other variables. There is a variety to choose from with ~188cc/min. I bought one injector from the wrecking yard and compared the flow rate to stock BWD replacement injectors that I already had mounted up on my testing device (a stock rail, six injectors wired in series, a fuel pump, filter, and some switches). Just ran them wide open for a certain time in to a Coke bottle and eyeballed final levels. They were identical. Crude, but so is the EFI system. Note that the flow rates don’t work out if you use the typical flow rate versus pressure calculator. But they did in the head-to-head test. I had planned to drop fuel pressure if necessary, but haven’t had to do that. Stan Weiss' - Electronic Fuel Injector (EFI) Flow Data Table Here’s a selection of Bosch injectors, with pictures, that I used to find one that would fit physically. I chose the 901’s for the nozzle and o-ring configuration. I got a set at the wrecking yard, with about 150k miles on them (it’s an experiment!). Bosch Fuel Injector Catalog Wholesale Prices No Charge Specific – Remanufactured Bosch Fuel Injector 0280150901 25531465 Here’s a link to the type of rail I am using. I made my own but it’s generally the same, except for the mounting fixtures. If I had less free time I probably would have just bought one of his. But it was fun to build something new. PALLNET FUEL RAILS - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ The system might be bolt-on no-tuning required, or it might require a minor fuel pressure adjustment. I have not seen any changes in driveablity, they might actually be smoother than the old setup. The idle definitely feels smoother, maybe due to better atomization. The engine still runs great, in general. It might be that something simple like just a straight-shot aluminum rail will do the trick (superlen might have been on the right track with his thoughts on the fuel flow getting side-tracked to one side of the stock rail). siteunseen is using a straight rail with stock injectors and hose clamps and does not have the problem. But he also has headers. My cooling fan experience led me to the injector bodies though, and the fuel rail was necessary to get them installed. I had considered making six adapters to attach hoses on to the 14mm injectors so that they could be used on the stock rail, but couldn't find the materials at the time. I do have materials located now though and may make some up just for a future experiment. That would be the one variable experiment. Anyway, that’s the story. The car behaves like a normal car now. Not even a burp or bobble on hot restart. I’ll come back after these next few hot days (supposed to hit 80), or at the first sign of heat soak problems. If you're reading this and tempted. you should probably wait before buying anything. I've been wrong before. You can always put a plan together though. Edit - the site software or my browser seems to be highlighting phrases like "Bosch injector" to lead people to eBay. Those aren't my links. Don't know how to get rid of it either.

I thought that I would post the link mainly as food for thought. Single pintle versus four hole. I don't even know that the description in the drawing is right, since it talks about a plate but the diagram shows a tapered seat valve. I'm going to start another thread with the details of what I did. My experience with cooling the injector bodies makes me think the problem is in the injectors but I don't have the definitive experiment done, with other variables controlled.

Here's an interesting post I found while Googling around (this is not a reply or reference at all to the last 7 posts here), ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K) - Page 106 - FSB Forums Post #2108 (longest thread ever), bottom image with the diagram, talks about deposits on the single pintle design. Could help explain a pintle binding theory. Regardless, it's interesting reading, to me anyway. I've been driving around with new injectors for the last 5 days, but am waiting for the next couple of days here in the Portland metro area to give them a true test, it's supposed to hit 80. But I've also changed to a straight-shot fuel rail so results won't be assignable to a single cause. But all of the changes combined seem to be working.

I'm from the Portland Oregon area and OT just means overtime to me (see Blazers - Rockets). What does it mean here? Kind of kidding, but really don't know. I did see articles about that. Microsoft drops another ball. I found IE to be slow and bloated years ago anyway and it's never improved. Chrome is fast. Firefox used to be the best, but their recent upgrades have become slow also.

The seals from a late 90's Kia Sportage work well. Also, don't forget the shark-fin shaped piece on top of the door front. It's important. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/37308-kia-sportage-weatherstip-rocks.html

The link below has the FSM's which show model numbers in the MT chapter. Nissan started using the FS5R90A in 1983. Follow the Nissan link to the 300ZX and the Datsun link to the 280ZX. You might start a new thread for your project. It's hard to follow what you're doing with posting in several different ones. How To Use NICOclub.com?s Factory Service Manual Database

Idle speed increasing when you advance the timing is normal, as long as it's already in the right range. Without a light though, you're heading down the path of interacting variables. You might be making changes to fix things that aren't really broken, just out of adjustment, leading to more things out if adjustment and a slow spiral to agony. The most common scenario for the Z EFI systems seems to start with adjusting the AFM. I'm kidding, but most have gone through the process and, after the typical ordeal, they gain a new appreciation for gauges and meters, and start collecting those instead of car parts.

Many of the parts stores carry pre-flared and fitted brake and fuel lines of various lengths. One way to get the length is to take a piece of wire and bend it around the curves of the piece you're replacing, then straighten it out and measure it. OReilly auto also loans out a variety of tools, I'm pretty sure that a flaring tool is one. Give deposit, use the tool, return it and get the full deposit back. But they also sell pre-fitted lines.

Sounding like a bad ignition module, possibly. You could do the electrical checks in the FSM. Some times the modules are bad enough that the tests will show it. el chapter, page EL-28. The testing procedures are so old though that the module test requires looking for needle waver on a voltmeter. Still worth going through, you could have a bad pickup coil, bad grounds, etc. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/el.pdf

I've just spent the last couple of weeks looking at injectors and seals and mounts. I've re-used all of the seals before, both the small ones and the big ones, but wold probably not re-use the bottom ones again if I ever have a choice in the future. The mounting system is designed to compress the bottom seal in to the manifold to a specific distance. Then it sits there getting baked over time and tends to lose its elasticity and take a set. So it won't have the same squishiness if re-used, and might not seal completely. If they still seem rubbery and elastic, they'll probably be okay. Looking at your picture, I would guess that they'll be rock hard. The big top rubber ring though, is just a vibration insulator and locator. I would reuse that one unless it was rock hard. they're a pain to get on and off. When you pull the injectors make sure the seal doesn't stay in the manifold. You might think you lost one but it will still be stuck in the hole. And when you're removing the fuel rail don't forget about the mounting bracket to the intake manifold bolt. It's hard to see when standing at the fender, it's under the rail, and many rails have been bent by people pulling before taking that last bolt out.

It shouldn't be a problem. The screw holes are still intact and will hold the pieces in place. Like Darrel said, they don't need to be very tight. Once the screws have pressed the injector seal down in to the hole, and squeezed the insulator and metal top piece together and down to the manifold (no gaps), there's little benefit to being tighter.

"china junk" got me. You ask a lot, then offend. It's just a bad combination.

1.2" - 1970-1973 Nissan 240Z STAGG Shocks/Struts and VOGTLAND Lowering Springs Kit (1.2" Drop) The link probably looks familiar. Catch up on how business and manufacturing works, if you can. Add a little bit of the world in general. Expand your mind, the narrow view will really limit you in the long run.

I edited my other post with a few more thoughts... In case you missed them.

The old 75 distributor will work great with the GM module. Here's a diagram that I spent a few days putting together. Connect the red wire to W, the green wire to G, and B and C as shown. Make sure that the mounting grommets are electrically grounded. Missed the internal part. There's not enough room inside for the GM module. But, if I was going to do another one I might mount it in the cabin where the old ignition module was. The red and green wires from the distributor run all the way there, along with the old coil positive and negative wires. You might need to fabricate a mounting plate. It would take some time with the wiring diagram. For a test though, it might be simpler to just run jumpers from your ZX distributor. You can take the ZX module off of the side and the two wires you need will be right there. Choices.

That's what I meant when I said that you might have to rotate the distributor. Mark the position of the distributor base so that you can get back to it when you're done, loosen the hold-down screw (the one you would loosen for timing), and rotate the whole distributor body. This will move the module in relation to the magnet. If you can see where a magnet is though, you could bump the engine around until it's close, then grab the rotor and twist. you should have about 10 degrees of rotation of the rotor from the mechanical advance. Not much, that's why it's easier to rotate the distributor body. You could also put the car in gear and roll it back and forth but that wouldn't be very quick and it would be hard to keep an eye on the meter.

Considering the time, effort and aggravation you've spent so far, maybe a trial of a GM HEI module would be worthwhile. $25 and some wiring versus $75 for a new ZX module. High RPM weirdness is a typical failing module sign. It could also be the distributor though. Have you checked the gap between the iron rotor and the pickup points? Described n the 79 FSM. The rotor needs to be perfectly centered. The pickup coil magnet tends to break on the ZX distributors also. I've seen it but don't know if they still work when broken. If you're not in to wiring or electronics, maybe $100 for a spare distributor would be worth the money. Or, maybe you could borrow a spare from somebody.

Post #4 in this thread links to a vendor. They sell a package so the assumption would be that Stagg knows. Not really confirmed though. New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

What engine/car are you working with?

I found the instructions linked below on the Summit Racing site. They don't exist on the Pertronix site. Good luck. The first test should tell you if the module is working. You might have rotate whole distributor to get the sleeve to move enough in front of the module. Pertronix doesn't seem to be supporting their older products. You have to wonder about quality control. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-1761/media/instructions

I had a similar leak, bit on the other side. After I removed the engine (put another in), I removed the head and all of the other sealing areas were fine. It only leaked from a coolant passage outward. Rotated your picture for you.

I missed jmortensen's post somehow. I think that by 76 Nissan was doing the greased then sealed with a screw joints from the factory. Don't try to take the joints apart whatever you do. They were assembled with precision ground locking clips to set the clearance. They're actually much higher quality parts than what you can get from a parts store. Nissan replacements cost about $80 and come with a set of varied thickness clips so that you can set perfect tolerance.