Zed Head

That's a good point about sweeping the full rail with new cool fuel. If I did not have air cooling on individual injectors solving my own problem, I'd probably go out and modify a rail to see what happened. Interested in what you find with fuel pressure. If it works, there are several people making aluminum stock fuel rails that will take more modern injectors. What brand of FPR did you order? The Aeromotive FPR's leak down rapidly (seconds) when the pump is off. Poor FPR for daily usage, their design is for high flow for high HP.

There seems to be a "I only have five wires" virus going around, it's very strange. I've never seen so many common threads. Search around this forum and the internet and you'll find more "five wire" threads. I haven't seen any of the problems resolved yet. Your best path might be to use the wiring diagram and a meter to figure out what the five wires that you have do and see if you can find a regulator that will get the job done.

The description of "3 degrees as if you were turning" implies that the wheel is pivoting easily in its normal turning motion. But maybe you really mean it moves back and forth. A broken TC rod or missing rear bushing will let the wheel do that. The control arm (transverse link) bushings will hold the wheel in its location when sitting still but it will be easily moved. Reach down and grab the TC rod and give it a yank. It shouldn't move at all. Check the nut and bushings. I drove about 4 miles to my house after my TC rod end broke. It's not a car-stopper.

You might have made the common mistake of adjusting things you weren't sure about without recording where the starting point was. Now you can't go back to where things were before you rebuilt the carbs and installed the points. You really need to start from scratch on both now. Borrow a timing light (and dwell meter if you can) and set the timing correctly, then tune the carburetors. There is most likely no single magic thing that you can do to get the engine running right. At least the engine runs so that you can be in tuning mode instead of troubleshooting.

Can't edit for some reason... Here's something that I've wanted to try by finding a different set of injectors, but maybe you can do it with tuning - run at a higher fuel pressure. The 36 psi standard didn't last long before everyone went to 45 psi or higher. I've wondered if there was another reason besides better atomization to do that.

I have a potentiometer on my coolant temperature circuit (installed specifically for the hot start issue, but later used for general tuning) and I've found that it helps to crank up the fuel when hot start happens. But based on the results, I've also come to the conclusion that not all of the injectors are affected. To add more detail to my theory, 1 - 3 injectors, probably 1, 5 and 6, are getting too hot and lose metering ability. That's why the engine will start and run, because these engines run okay on three cylinders. So, any solution that adds fuel to all six cylinders will make three rich and three right, as opposed to three lean and three right. I found that adding fuel to all six would make things better but never get all six running right. Not trying to kill your motivation, I may be wrong and you might have a solution. But it's a rabbit hole.

Why would things change in the harness? Did they work before you removed the dash? Odds of something wrong in the harness are low. You can learn a lot sitting in the driver's seat with the cover off of the switches on the steering column and voltmeter in hand. Power comes in to the combo switch there from the fusible link, heads down to the fuse box, where it splits to left and right HL's (fuses), then comes back to the dimmer switch in the turn signal stalk. You can check power in to and out of the headlight switch from the top of the switch. The solder joints are exposed. You can probably unplug the dimmer switch and ground the head lights with a jumper to see if the dimmer switch is the problem. Or check for voltage at the dimmer switch plug. Check, check, turn light switch on, check. Don't forget the simple possibility of bad headlights also.

Use "Go Advanced" and insert the picture in to your reply.

There's only one b. Look underneath the FPR.

Potential power outage from the storm probably didn't help the stress level.

Does the steering wheel move when you do that? If not, not good.

As Eurodat said, you'll rarely see the 36 psi unless you open the throttle wide. The simplest check is to follow the FPR vacuum hose to where it attaches to the intake manifold and remove it from the vacuum nipple. Temporarily plug the hole in the manifold to avoid a high idle and start the engine. Then you should see 36-38 psi on the gauge. 25 psi at idle is very low, even with very good intake vacuum (implies 22 inches of vacuum) so you might have something weird going on. When you remove the vacuum hose check it for gasoline. If it smells like fuel or has liquid inside, that's a problem.

The middle muffler is for "drone" or resonance. It's actually called a resonator by some, although I think anti-resonator might be more technically correct. People that have drone hate it.

The "stub" is below the main rail and there is no surface tension to speak of to keep it from filling if fuel is in the rail. No reason for it to stay empty once the rail is primed. I think that the fuel probably sits and percolates in the injector body until enough vapor passes through it to cool it back down to where it's full of liquid. That's my theory and I have one experiment to support it, but not prove it. But your comment shows the difficulty in figuring out what's really happening. You can come up with a variety of possible causes. As far as cooling everything, yes that seems to work. The problem doesn't happen unless the engine is nice and hot. It's also been proposed that using a lower temperature thermostat to keep the engine block and components cooler will also mitigate the problem. But that has other effects that may or may not be desirable. It's a dilemma.

If the car is too far away to look, then this thread is really just a memory game. There are pictures of crankshafts around the internet. Search pilot bushing and 240Z or 280Z or 510. Advice is to go to the car, climb underneath with a bright light and see what's really there.

No, I just provided a link to where the ECU is. No idea what the metal boxes are. A picture would help.

Index of /FSM Turbo supplement, Engine Fuel chapter, ECCS section. There is no brain, just stimulus-response cicuits. A box of nerves.

I have a switch for my fuel pump and I also had the hot start problem. I've primed the fuel rail for about a minute, until I couldn't hear the bubbles from the gas tank anymore, and still had the problem. The rail was full of cool fuel and the engine still choked and sputtered for an eternity of 10-20 seconds. The only fix I've found is cooling the injectors directly. The theories that I like are that the injectors get hot enough that the fuel vaporizes as it passes through giving incorrect, lean, metering, or that the pintle inside the injector gets stuck, doing the same, rich or lean, or both.

You should be able to do it from under the car, no need to remove the engine. Post a picture of the end of the crankshaft. Apparently, the flex-plate spacer is a tight fit and looks like the end of the crankshaft but it's actually just pressed on. The other big problem you'll run in to, even if the transmission shaft fits okay is that the flywheel will be the spacer's width away from the starter and may not engage correctly with the starter's gear. You may also find that you don't have enough threads engaged when you bolt on the flywheel,which could be a safety hazard. Many other aggravations ahead if it is the spacer and it's left on.

Looks like you're new to forums, based on your "navagation" comment, but you'll do well to start your internet life with decent punctuation and grammar. It's the representation of your virtual self. Good luck.

Those are CV joint half-shafts and they're most likely too long to use, in addition to needing an adapter. The parts from the R180 in your car now might swap over, I believe. No idea on the details.

I compared dimensions on the OReilly Auto web site and the rears are 1 1/4" longer of the two choices for sale there. Everything else is the same. So if you have fronts you might run in to a length problem. Rears should be at least 11 inches long according to their page. Brake Hose - 1973 Nissan 240Z | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Now you'll need to check the engine for termites. That L28 is looking more enticing. I see that you stuck your wedge back in. It may be too late though, the tensioner is spring-loaded to get it started on the chain with hydraulics for running. When you pulled the old one out the tensioner probably popped out of its hole. You might not be able to get the sprocket re-installed, if you planned to re-install the head without removing the front cover.

That is a wedge that's used to hold the timing chain tensioner in place. It's described in the engine tear-down procedure in the FSM. If you had planned to only remove and re-install the head, you would have inserted that before removing the head. Not uncommon for people to forget about them and re-assemble the engine. Someone has had the head off before.

I would get the L24 running then take it out and run it hard to blow out the crud, wear down the rust, soften up the seals, etc. Some people call this an Italian tune-up (I think the term references the cars, not the people, no offense intended). Not much to lose except a towing fee and you might find that it's actually in good shape. A little bit of surface rust in the cylinders would probably kill your dry pressure readings.