Zed Head

Nice paint and very clean. It's not a restoration. The "pre-muffler" is left off also. It's gonna drone. Pick, pick, pick...

This 71 went for less. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-245/

Interesting resto'ed 73. Big number already. I think it's the paint. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-210/

How about crimping? A crimp will still offer better contact than the spring pressure of the fuse holder metal. All you need is contact area for heat transfer.

Tried to sign in just now and got a timeout. But when I opened another tab I was signed in. Captured the spinning wheel and the eventual timeout message.

That's a GM HEI module. If it hasn't been damaged from poor connections it should work with the 76 distributor. The red wire from the pickup coil connects to W and the green wire connects to G. B connects to switched battery, and C connects to coil negative. Of course the coil positive needs switched battery too, typically they're both connected to B on the HEI module. The final connection is the ground through the mounting grommets. Those are most important, that's where all of the coil current goes. There are several instructions in the download area about it.

The idea is out there. Here's a variation. Bulky but it might offer some ideas. Seems like you might have better luck converting the positions in the fuse box than converting the individual fuses. The holders in the fuse box are the springy part. https://www.grainger.com/product/6AYJ0?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAiA9qKbBhAzEiwAS4yeDQqc4F5Bya6JJlINW2P3G8rLEGyJOnfxtQIBQnXVY2zk-TjujkuiohoC4iIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Present! I've noticed that a few other forums I frequent are low on activity. Maybe we're all preoccupied with the possibility of the end of things as we've known them. I am.

It might be. But that's why separating things will help. Thousands of people, across many brands beside Datsun, have converted their points to the Pertronix system with no problems. Your problem wouldn't be a general points versus electronic issue. DutchZ is just being philosophical.

That's what happens when a leak is left too long. The seal rubber wears away and the tension spring ends up metal to metal on the sealing surface. Pretty common on propeller shafts too. The repair sleeves are pretty thin. They seem to work. Really though, I'm not sure the rubber lip on a good new seal will ride in the groove left by the tension spring. Might be worth a measurement.

Any chance you could start a new thread, of your own? Eastcoast has a tachometer problem. You're tossing a whole new thing in to the middle of his thread.

Near the end of the Crane XR700 / XR3000 instructions there is a section on modifying Smiths type tachs, which is what you have. Looks like they're reducing the power/size of the magnetic field by removing a loop of the sensing wire. Here's a link to the downloads area, might be worth reading. Page 16.

I looked at your pictures before but didn't catch the difference between the two. I only looked at the first. Your first picture must be with the pedal down, slave rod extended. It is close to what mine was, at rest. Your second picture must be at at rest, clutch pedal up. And the distance is small, indicating a tall clutch collar. I'd still do what ha been recommended and make sure that you have some play at the pedal. You want to be sure that the MC is all the way back and that the pedal is not applying any force to it. But it sure does look like you might have a tall collar where you should have a short one. Here is mine at rest, from that thread I linked. It looks like yours with the pedal down.

You meant level, right? The oil level will only be as high as the bottom of the fill plug unless it's overfilled. Or warmer than when it was put in. I remember working on my speedo cable without doing anything special. Had it in off and on a few times trying to get the cable properly inserted in to both ends after a transmission change.

Anybody know what the spray bar is made of?

What is the history of the engine? It might just be old stuff from a PO. It might not be from the engine. Take a closeup look at the pieces. https://www.grainger.com/product/2NTH8?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjw--2aBhD5ARIsALiRlwDogoTfMTMx_RTHvhnWZddPF8nFLTPLLMiR1zXuhgAOdJewK_mnQXcaAqNhEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I'm sure it can be figured out. I didn't dig in to the diagram. My brain is stuck on how to interrupt the constant power when the marker lights are on. "Summary ------- This procedure will enable the front side marker lights of any car to blink _with_ the turn signals (if running lights are off) or to _alternate_ with the turn signals (if running lights are on). Normal operation of the marker lights is not affected. The procedure works on any car with parking and turn signal lamps at the front, even if the turn signals are not dual-filament (#1157/1157A/1157NA) bulbs, such as on Japanese cars. Restrictions ------------ The marker lamps must not be single-wire designs which rely on the car body for grounding. If the marker lamp has two wires connected (power & ground), the procedure will work."

Is that the actual on-engine configuration or is it just bolted to a piece of wood according to someone's fantasy? I think I see some space between the carbs.

So, since Tomohawk has a 280Z, the question is still unanswered. I'll recycle one of the things I wrote earlier - it's probably possible, especially with today's microprocessor controlled lights. You could just switch the power supply to the turn signal power but then you'd lose the ability to use the side markers as running lights.

Edit - actually I just didn't dig in to any of this, I just got the impressions from looking at 280Z wiring. If it works, it works. Do they have a 280Z product? Apparently not, see below. So maybe the difference is in how the 240Z lights work, compared to 280Z. https://www.thezstore.com/Category/733/marker-light-upgrades

I wrote some stuff but see that there's a product already available. I assume that the side markers don't light up anymore though when they're not flashing. So, it's a tradeoff. There's probably a way to get dual duty out of that single filament especially with today's microprocessor controlled lighting systems. p.s. I'd guess that that also puts two more filaments on the turn signal fuse. Looks like they just tapped in to the turn signal circuit, not certain. Something to watch out for.

This is usually air flow but could also be coolant flow. Is your heater core intact or do you have it bypassed?

What does it do if you hold the engine at higher RPM than idling? Maybe your water pump is bad. And is your fan shroud intact?

This old thread might help. You can take some measurements before you take anything apart. It's the opposite problem, your clutch fork might be too far forward. The "collar" might be holding the clutch disengaged. Not applying full force. People have reported that also. Of course, it could also be an oily clutch disc.

And some communication stuff. https://www.thezstore.com/topic/email