Zed Head

There's little if any pressure on the spring when the big retaining bolt is started. I've had one out a couple of times. If there's room to slide the parts out without hitting the tunnel, it should be pretty easy. I think there's three parts, the bolt, the spring and the "pin". Can't remember if there's an orientation but I don't think so. Eyeball it as you're removing to be sure. Interested to see if a new spring or some preload will change things. I didn't like that feature of the older transmissions, it was aggravating.

I've had this happen when I replaced a transmission. It's possible to get the cable housing, or sheath, attached without actually having the cable end inserted in to the speedo drive gear. Disconnect it at the transmission, draw the cable out an inch or so and insert it in to the drive gear (give it a twist while inserting and you'll feel it drop in), then attach the housing/sheath to the transmission. I usually turn the drive shaft while screwing down the sheath attachment to make sure the cable drops in at the speedo end also.

Sounds a lot like a bad battery terminal connection. They get dirty and/or corroded and will pass just enough current to run everything but the starter. When you take the negative terminal off do you clean it and put it back on tightly, or do you leave it loose so that you can get it off easily the next time the problem happens? They need to be clean and tight. The ECUs on these cars don't reset at all. The only thing on the car that changes when the battery is disconnected is the clock.

If your stock AFM and ECU and engine components are "in tune" and working well together you won't notice any improvement from the potentiometer. It's only a benefit if you have a lean condition that needs fixing.

Good point on the 3.36 diff ratio. This guy is looking for 5th gear. Sell the shifter and speedo gear to Wade, 5th gear below, and keep the bellhousing for someone doing a 240SX trans. conversion (which would actually be good gears for your 3.36) and you'll make some money. tranny gears wanted (1977-1980) - Parts Wanted - HybridZ

For the cost of a rebuild kit and your time plus the $100, you could probably find a decent used 5 speed somewhere else. Rebuilding isn't easy and the results aren't guaranteed to be good. Plus the fact that it's an early 5 speed (speedo screw and hanger ears), with the large jump from 2 to 3. If you could find a cheap tail shaft housing and just swap it out without rebuilding, it might be worth the effort. Otherwise it seems like lots of effort for not much return.

That RX-7 valve does look nice. I Googled fuel line check valves and found a similar one - Fuel line check valves. Right direction?? - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums Here's one that even has the barb size, although they're the one way type. http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Way-Fuel-Valve-5-16-8mm-SVO-WVO-Biodiesel-Diesel-Fuel-Line-Check-Valve-/181080394722 Can't stop - http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/ES292046/ And if you could find this one in the right size-metric, you'd be golden - http://greatlakesskipper.com/en_us/standard-1-2-inch-boat-brass-fuel-hose-fitting-w-check-valve Finally, from boats to tractors - http://www.koopvanderwalparts.com/check-valve-fuel-line-john-deere.html

Thanks for the part number. I might try one if I ever put my Aeromotive FPR back on. Napaonline doesn't want to tell me which store has it available and doesn't sell it online so I searched a little more and found that CV8000 is the key part number and it's available at a lot of different places, like Autozone, Summit and Amazon. It's Airtex brand, the guys who make fuel pumps.

That part number in your other thread still comes up as a relay, not a check valve. Which NAPA and Echlin part numbers did you have confused?

You didn't say why you replaced those parts. The "other odds and ends" might be important. What do you mean by "new ignition"? How well did it run when it was parked five years ago? If I was working on a car that sat for five years the first thing I would check is fuel quality. Actually, I wouldn't even check it until it was out of the tank, I would drain the tank first and disconnect the starter wire to run the pump and drain the fuel rail too. Then refill with fresh gas and run the fuel pump again to get fresh gas in the rail. Anyway, when you say "no gas" do you mean no fire from the cylinders, or are you sure the pump doesn't come on? Some of the ZX's had a 5 second prime, but the pump won't run until the key is at Start or the engine runs. You won't hear it when the key is On.

You can pinch or fold over the hoses to stop gas flow. If they're old they might crack though, but if they crack they need replacing anyway. The supply line to the pump will do more than drip when disconnected. I ran a 280Z tank out of fuel and didn't have any problems restarting after I put a couple of gallons in. It had an aftermarket pump though, not OEM style. You might consider using a check valve from an old pump since most of them fail from rust or corrosion from sitting. They stop pumping but the check valves might be fine. Or your check valve might be I've had several old FPR's that leaked down. Have you pinched the return line shut to make sure the leaking isn't from the FPR?

If the surfaces are cleaned up well, the stock gasket should do the job alone.

An incorrectly installed cam can be 180 degrees out. Just put it there then put chain on. He wrote that he turned the cam shaft 180 degrees, with the sprocket removed. That's what I was replying to.

This implies that it wasn't just distributor timing. You moved the valve opening events in relation to the crankshaft and pistons if what you wrote is what you did. You probably got lucky with the P79 head on N42-block dished pistons, since the P79 has a higher dome in the combustion chamber, designed for flat-top pistons. If you had the N42 or N47 head you probably would have bent some valves. The factory L6 combinations are interference engines.

There are other causes for sticking windows. Here's a link to a great technical article on adjusting door parts. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/15177-door-window-problems-checks.html

Check the wiring diagram. It's in the FSM. Engine Electrical chapter, Ignition section.

Do you have a good ground to the mounting hole metal? The modules are sensitive to bad grounds. The metal of the mounting holes is one of the ground circuits. Both sides of the coil have 12 volts when no current is flowing. Pin 1 attaches to the negative post.

Pop the rubber boot off of the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid inside that has leaked past the piston. The boot will hold quite a bit of fluid before it shows on the outside.

Actually, I ran my 76 coil with the GM HEI module and no ballast for a while and it didn't overheat and there was no damage. No guarantees on your diamond brand coil. On the jumpy tach, I had to install an extra condenser on the negative post of the coil to get my tach to work right. I think that the HEI module might generate more "noise" on the coil negative post. Might be worth a shot, a typical radio suppression condenser might work.

I added to my other post... above, about the ballast.

Thanks. I didn't realize that there was a testing machine for modules, although it makes sense that there would be since the inputs and outputs are simple. Of all the threads and posts I've seen about "how do I tell if my ignition module is good or bad" I've never seen anyone suggest taking it to the parts store to be tested. I just bought a dome lamp from someone in a green shirt. On the ballast - do you mean you got another, replacement, coil and it came with a ballast? The stock 1978 system didn't have one, I believe, I could be wrong. You need to get a coil that can handle higher current if you want to get rid of the ballast. If you want to match your GM HEI module and don't mind a coil that looks kind of ugly, get an external HEI coil, from a mid 70's GM 6 cylinder pickup or Nova. I'm sure you have some in the store. You'll need to put new ends on the wires to fit the coil, but you'll have a set-up optimized to work together. You'll also have to build a mounting bracket.

The ballast is there to protect the coil and the old module. If you swapped in a 78 or later coil, or a GM external HEI coil, you could get rid of the ballast. You'd have the full HEI setup. Are you going to describe the module testing machine? I'd still like to know what it does and who has them.

Oops. The answer would be yes. But the blue wire from the negative on the coil already goes to Pin #1, and the tachometer and the original ignition module. If you leave the blue wire on the coil negative in its original spot and just add a jumper wire from the coil negative to the C terminal on the HEI module, you will have things connected right. The jumper wire is a new branch to the new module, and the branch that connects to the old module isn't used anymore. You can run a jumper for the B terminal also from the positive post.

Assuming that "it" is just the ignition module. What machine/tester did you use to test it? I've not heard of an ignition module testing machine. More info would be interesting, even if it doesn't help answer your question.

...and the ignition module.