Zed Head

Anybody know what's going on with the hybridz.org site?

Here's a recent thread that's relevant. Opposite of your problem. We figured out the "magic number" - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47279&page=2&p=416109&highlight=clutch%20collar%20height%2092%20stack#post416109 If the collar is too short there should be lots of room for the collar to move back and forth on the front cover before it contacts the pressure plate fingers. Just another thing to maybe confirm your suspicions. I feel your pain, I took a transmission back out in less than a week after I installed it because it was leaking 2-3 drops of gear oil per day. The pivot pin threads in the cover hadn't been sealed. It had to be done.

The slave cylinder has a spring behind the piston that pushes it out to a certain spot and holds the rod tip against the fork. If things are right, the spring will take up all of the play between the rod tip and the seat on the fork, so that the next stroke give maximum travel. You can actually push the rod in to the cylinder to remove it if you wanted to, if things were right. It's fairly easy to take the slave cylinder apart, you might do that before you go too far. I think that there is a simple circlip holding the piston in. Maybe there's an obstruction in your slave cylinder. You could also take the rubber dust boot off of the fork at the transmission and get a better feel for if the fork is seated on the pivot pin and held correctly by the springs. And somewhere out there I have seen a diagram of the angle of the fork when it's seated properly. If the fork is on the pin correctly, it will have a little bit of play fore and aft but will be held firmly by the springs. If it's not held by the springs you'll be able to tell. It's hard to feel with the boot on though, you'll need to pop it off (it's hard to get back on though). Just a few ideas before you take it out. And, by the way, I think that you're using engage and disengage backwards. Engage is when the clutch pedal is up and the engine is tied, or engaged, to the transmission. Disengage is when the engine is released from the transmission by pushing on the clutch pedal.

Following Tomohawk's suggestion - the first thing you should do is see if the intake valve for that injector port was or is open. If the valve is not open, then the foil piece is probably sitting there waiting to fall in if you turn the engine over. If the valve is open, it might still be sitting on the back of the valve head. With a bright light you might be able to see it through the injector port. You might be surprised. If you can see it, rig up a small diameter vacuum hose so that your shop vac pulls a vacuum on it and suck it out like liposuction.

They are self-cutting, or -tapping, and cut their own threads in the plastic when first used, I believe. Very coarse thread. Similar in pitch to the self-tapping screw shown in this link - http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/resistantmaterials/jointsrev2.shtml

Here's a "while you're at it" maybe - if you have had any thoughts about going to an alternate ignition or engine management system, like Megajolt or Megasquirt, add a 36-1 wheel to the damper and pulley before installing.

Sometimes the bearing will come installed in the collar. With those parts you probably need the tall collar shown on this link - http://zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html Did you install the parts or did someone else? I had a very similar situation, way back with one of my first cars, when I put the clutch disc in backwards. The hub springs were jammed against the flywheel bolt heads. Unlikely for you, just an example of how things can go wrong. Also, if your slave cylinder is leaking, you'll probably have some fluid inside the rubber cover. The cover seals pretty tightly and will hold quite a bit of fluid. Watch out if you decide to peel it back and take a look. I had a leaking slave cylinder (Schucks-bought) and it had your symptoms.

Have you checked the clevis assembly for play and wear? If I was installing a clutch MC, knowing what I know now, I would eyeball the relationship between the clevis pin holes and the pin hole on the pedal before I inserted the pin. The MC has an internal spring that pushes the piston out to where it should be in the cylinder. If it's pushed out too far, you'll run out of travel in the cylinder, if it starts out too short, you'll run out of travel on the pedal. The starting point should be to have the clevis pin holes lined up before inserting the pin, then fine tune it. If the pedal is at the top of its travel and the MC piston is at the start of its stroke, that's the maximum travel you'll be able to get. Easy to verify by removing the pin and seeing where things are. Might have to use a mirror. There's probably a stop screw under the pedal also that can be adjusted. One more thing to check.

Did you replace the bushings or a shop? Even after 18 months it should be fairly easy to recall the rubber piece that was burned or hacked out of the mustache bar to install the urethane bushing. To install new rubber bushings you need to cut out the metal sleeve of the old bushing that was left behind, from the mustache bar. The Rear Axle and Suspension chapter of the FSM has a drawing of the cross-section of the bushing and the washers. If you can't figure it out, post a picture of it here and someone can probably walk you through it. Edit - Thank Blue for making it easier...

What brand and model so future damper replacers can avoid the problem? Did you install it yourself or have a shop do it? Just curious about any installation problems. I know that MSA's damper is often too tight to install without modification.

I tried datsun parts, "datsun parts" in quotes and datsunparts as one word in the search box and didn't get anything worth reading. I think that Chris Z is suggesting that datsunparts llc might not have a good reputation. Probably worth checking out before buying, especially for a big item like an engine.

The wire size and color are shown in the Body Electrical chapter of the FSM, in diameter not gauge. The capacity of the links commonly referred to for the fusible links "upgrade" is apparently based on estimates. Not trying to stir up old discussions, it's been discussed in depth before. It's just the state of the situation, anyone modifying their car based on internet information should verify veracity and is ultimately responsible for any problems incurred.

Not sure why there's two threads now but the video worked great in this one. Your engine sounds almost exactly like mine did when I installed the plug wires in reverse rotation order. Then engine will start, even though, by firing order, it's only running on two cylinders. Maybe another cylinder or two gets enough timing to fire also. Anyway, I would re-check firing order and rotation - 1-5-3-6-2-4 in counter clockwise fashion.

Your video is in mp4 format, which my computer won't play. Is the problem no load, or while driving? What year car? Is it stock or has it been modified? Why did you install a thermostat housing? What all did you remove when you were working on the housing? Just a few questions that might help in figuring out the problem. Idling funny and "farting" sounds like a miss, which could be vacuum leak related or could be low fuel pressure or misplaced plug wires. Edit - actually Windows Media Player did open it and play it, but without the sound. Which doesn't really help.

I screwed up way back when I said that I had 5020's for my 280Z. I have 5022's, which are the 280Z springs. Sorry for any confusion.

There are many possible combinations of pressure plate and release bearing collar, some work and some don't. Can you describe the collar and pressure plate that you are using? Your hydraulics might be fine, it could be the other parts.

The mass of relays and square metallic objects and wires and connections near the VR can be confusing. It sounds like you or someone else might have installed the wrong alternator on your car or you have the right alternator but should have replaced the external VR instead. 75 used an external voltage regulator. If you use the internally regulated alternator you have to disconnect the old VR AND install some jumpers at the VR connection. You should get 10% more sure, to 100%, of what you have. There are drawings of the VR in the Electrical chapter of the FSM. The location is shown in the Body Electrical chapter (use the 76 FSM if you need to, the 75 xenons30 link doesn't seem to have that chapter). Also, your ammeter will tell you if the alternator is producing. + is amps going in to the system, - is draining out. The atlanticz link might help you help you out too, with pictures from a 77 280Z - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

Diode. But if they installed the late-model alternator in a 240Z without installing the diode, they may have also installed it without disconnecting the external regulator. Better check the whole charging system.

Many manufacturer's offer a cheaper part but give a shorter warranty. That is probably the main difference. The cold start valve's only purpose is to squirt some extra gasoline in to the intake manifold when the key is at Start and the engine is cold. Many people remove theirs to remove one potential problem. I've removed mine and don't even notice it's gone. I live in Oregon where it rarely gets below freezing though. If you live in Minnesota, you might want to keep it.

I can't really tell which car has what parts in it and where they're going, with a 70 and 71 240Z and a roadster, but I think that you can easily identify the forward shifted differential in the 240Z with the short drive shaft by looking at the angle of the half-shafts to the wheels, from the side of the car. The later 240s, 260s and 280 half-shafts will be perpendicular to the wheel and side of the car, the early 70 cars have an obvious forward angle. I seen it with my own eyes, in the wrecking yard. Might have to remove a wheel but it seemed obvious when I was looking at them. Or you can measure from u-joint cap center to u-joint cap center (easiest measurement if it's installed). The short one's are ~21 1/8", the longer ones are ~22.1/4".

Cleaning can cause problems by stirring up material that would otherwise not do any harm. If you're putting an engine together from parts then cleaning everything is important. But if the engine's already together like yours, you're probably better off just adjusting the valves, putting the cover back on, and cleaning only the outside. If the engine runs well why mess with the internal parts? The brown on the camshaft base circle doesn't matter because that's where the clearance is that you set when you adjust valve lash. In use, nothing rubs on it. It will just come back over time. Edit - In looking back, the OP said it's a project, and he has no mechanical backgorund. So, it comes down to what the goal of the project is. If the engine is in a car and he wants to get it on the road quickly, then cleaning the internals is probably not the thing to do. If the OP wants to learn how things work and has time then maybe a complete tear-down is the way to go. Just clarifying...

This is probably the most popular thread on installing the ZX distributor, a link the OP could use anyway if he decides to go that way (with attention paid of course to the fact that the writeup is for rewiring a 77 280Z setup). It shows pictures of the two different mounts also. The problem is in the position of the lock down screw. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Looks like he has plenty of choices. Wonder where he went...

I think that your HC numbers are pretty close. Small changes will probably get you there. Do you have the vacuum hose connected to your fuel pressure regulator and does the FPR work correctly? Fuel pressure should be ~36 psi with the hose disconnected and 28-32 psi with it connected, at idle.

Kind of confusing, I went back and see in Post #9 that you had measured 180 and 100 with the AFM removed. Was that the replacement AFM or the old one? Now you're at 204 and 126. Is that the connector or at the AFM? Post #9 suggested that your AFM was fine but that you had bad wiring connectins. For the temperature sensors higher resistance adds fuel. The spec. from the FSM is actually 3.25 kOhms to 4.15 KOhms, so your 1.5 kOhms is actually reading a little lean. If the leanness isn't causing a miss then it shouldn't hurt the emissions. A lean miss can hurt emissions though. The TPS is just a three position switch that tells the ECU if the throttle is at idle, mid-range or open. The continuity measurements need to match exactly what the FSM calls for. More fuel is added at idle and at open throttle. In the middle the ECU uses the AFM. Your failing the test at the mid-range so the TPS could be the problem. Did the PO do any other "mods" like a different camshaft or bigger injectors? The "big-throat" throttle body doesn't add much without them. You might check the other engine parts to see if they are stock. I think that FastWoman was right and you'll just have to keep fixing the PO's "upgrades". Looks like you're making progress though.

These numbers are more then 20-30 ohms off. Looks like 40 and 45 off. I'm not positive but I think that it's the ratio between the two numbers that matters most since it's a voltage splitting device. I think that the ECU uses the ratio between what goes out and what comes back to determine where the AFM vane is. The spec. ratio is 1.8 (180/100), your ratio is 2.2 (321/145). What is the number on your AFM? The guy that put the big throttle body on might have also installed the wrong AFM. Should be A31-060-001 I believe.