Zed Head

Just found this post over on zcar.com - http://www.zcar.com/84-89_tech_discussion_forum/fs5w71c_front_seal_cover_removal_897268.msg2703340.html#msg2703340 He took the pivot bolt out and ran a longer bolt in to bottom out on the case and push the cover off. Probably why one of mine leaked, someone probably did this and didn't reseal the threads when they put it back together.

Wow, 48 years before you had to submit! That's impressive, as is your ability to communicate on the internet right away. The internet is a strange place, good luck with it. You might have the Factory Service Manual (FSM) on that disk already. If not, you can down load it here - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html The TPS, coolant temperature sensor and the AFM are the primary sources of fuel enrichment, through the ECU. BUT, your problem does sound very similar to an ECU problem that comes up occasionally. I had a bad one that went really rich all of a sudden, then died completely, and a member here, Z Train, has also wrote about ECU problems that caused rich running. He and others have reported that they could bang on the side of the ECU and fix it temporarily. Apparently some of the old solder connections can crack and lose contact. It's a stretch but something to consider if all of the test numbers come out right.

You seem to able to read well, and use the computer to find this forum and sign up and post at least 33 times. Therefore, I suggest that you download the 1983 Factory Service Manual and read up on the differences between the NA (none) engine and the turbo engine. Unfortunately, because of your handicapped writing skills, people will have a hard time understanding what you're asking in your forum posts. Blame the public school system. It's unusual to come across someone who can't at least end a sentence with a period and capitalize the next letter, but I guess it's possible, so good luck with it. Here's the link - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html I would read the Engine Fuel section first. E.F.I is for the non turbo engines and E.C.C.S is for the turbo engines. They use different wiring harnesses.

All I said was I think that you're messing with people. Why don't you capitalize the first letter in each sentence? Why don't you capitalize "I"? Why do you spell you as "u". You can read it and understand it in the replies, so you must know it's not right. I'm criticizing your lack of effort, that's all. It's the one thing most of us have control of. Good luck. Maybe some kind forum member will help you out anyway.

"sapost" is the fatal slip-up. If you can phoneticize "supposed to" in to "sapost", you have the ability to spell and punctuate. Busted, bigmime. You're no dummy, you're just messing with people.

I posted this in your other "new" thread. Some details on the "fuel injection circuit test related to the AFM" might help you out. What was wrong? Good luck. From other thread - "Download the FSM. Run through the tests in the Engine Fuel section. You'll need an ohm-meter and a fuel pressure gauge. Without measurements it's just gambling. Measurements at the ECU connector are best. More history on the car and engine would be good also. Did the engine run fine for ten years and start doing this or did you just buy the car and it's done this since you got it? "

I just noticed that you've reposted your problems and already have a bunch of replies in another thread. It's all the same crowd...

Download the FSM. Run through the tests in the Engine Fuel section. You'll need an ohm-meter and a fuel pressure gauge. Without measurements it's just gambling. Measurements at the ECU connector are best. More history on the car and engine would be good also. Did the engine run fine for ten years and start doing this or did you just buy the car and it's done this since you got it?

I never found any good connectors. I cut up a GM alternator plug to make my own but they didn't really work very well. I put the whole assembly in a metal project box which keeps the connectors from getting bumped loose and protects from the elements. I think that there is a stock wiring sub-harness for the module, as its used in the distributor, that you might be able to find.

Ask for an HEI module for a 1977 Camaro. They'll probably have a few different brands, like Standard, Elgin or BWD. That diagram looks right. One benefit of getting a module and connecting it now is that you'll know it works before the other one dies. If you wait until the other one dies, you'll be stuck not knowing for sure if it's the module or not. That's why I hooked mine up, then I left it for while, now I can't see any reason to disconnect it. I still have a stock module, disconnected, in its original spot. Good luck.

That's incredible. Tax dollars wasted.

You're "researching" from a phone. Put the phone down and find a computer.

In my reading around the web, I got the impression that there might have been some cars with the very early HEI systems that had some problems. But the cause might have been the coils, not the modules, since they both get very hot inside the distributor cap. Or just bad early modules. Overall, it appears to an automotive urban myth. It gets repeated a lot but I haven't seen anyone confirm it. I don't have a favorite module. It's a very common part, so market forces should drive the price down to low margin. You probably get what you pay for. I paid a few extra dollars for the BWD brand with a longer warranty. If you try it, don't forget that the module is electrically grounded through one of the mounting lugs. Make sure that you have good contact or run a separate ground wire from the lug to a known good ground. Also, trim the little plastic nub off of the bottom of the module so that it has good thermal contact with the surface its mounted on. All ignition modules need to dissipate some heat when they're in use.

The Zdriver wriiteup is designed to use the HEI module as a replacement for the "turbo ignitor" on the turbo ZXs with ECU dwell and timing control. The ECU triggers the "ignitor" or transistor in that case. The "signal" wire to the ECU and the ground wire takes the place of the two distributor wires. It doesn't apply to the NA cars that use the trigger signal from the reluctor in the distributor and an ignition module. For a 1978 (and 74 - 77), you can connect everything in the engine bay, right at the coil and distributor. Just run jumper wires from the coil, one from coil + to B, one from coil - to C, and then disconnect the red and green wires from the distributor at the junction on the fenderwell, and connect red to W, and green to G. G and W read the pulse from the reluctor and B and C is the "breaker" circuit in the module. The reason to disconnect the stock module is so that the HEI module can break the circuit. The HEI module will now control dwell, and making and breaking the coil primary circuit. The main reason to do it is if your other module conks out, they're expensive, or if you want to try a higher power coil without the ballast resistor (which 1978 doesn't have any more anyway).

turbo

Never mind. I thought I had translated the OP's message, but realized I don't have a clue what he's talking about.

You can just unplug the stock ignition module. The wires to the tachometer and the ECU are separate and will not be affected. I did this on my 1976 car and it's been working fine for over a year. I'm pretty sure that FastWoman has an HEI module on her 1978 car, if you wanted to send her a PM to get another opinion.

Are you using a screw-in gauge or one of those ones with the rubber plug you hold in the spark plug hole? It's odd that you would lose 50 and 40 psi on 3 and 4 just from sitting for a day. The measurement results doesn't look right. They should be consistent, if you're not starting the engine between measurements. You said the first was cold, so I assume that you measured cold, waited a day and measured cold again. No reason for the head gasket to blow, just sitting.

I would go to the link below and ask. Most of the discussions here are for making the car more road-worthy, not less. http://stanceworks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=4

I've taken a couple of front covers off recently and found that a heat gun or torch on the cover to loosen the gasket and any sealer helped. Then I used a piece of wood through the clutch fork hole, and a hammer, on the base of the pivot ball to break it loose. You can also use wood to build a fulcrum at the hole and your choice of lever to pry up on the back of the pivot ball. I used the wood to avoid chipping or breaking the case or pivot ball. The heat made a difference, plus some PB Blaster around the edge of the cover. It will soak in to the gasket and soften it up. I would heat it up, spray some Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Aerokroil around the edge, let it soak, pop the back of the pivot ball a few times, then see if it will lever off. I had two that were stuck really tight.

Let me guess - you just came back from a Super Bowl party?

These should help - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ Read through them a couple of times before you post any questions over there. Good luck.

This is classiczcars.com You want to go to www.hybridz.org to get help with your project. They are stern taskmasters over there though, so best to browse through the forums first and do some reading before asking questions. Your project will take a lot of work, and either lots of money or very good fabricating skills, or both.

There's a chapter on Engine Control, Fuel & Exhaust System in the FSM - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html It does mention removing a cross-member to remove the muffler. Installation is reverse of removal.

Looks like you might have found FW's post already but here it is again, just in case - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35588-Upgrade-from-fusible-links-to-circuit-breakers/page2&highlight=stinger+relay There are different ways to use relays to take the loads off of the switches. In addition to FW's method and Dave's harnesses, you could also use three relays in the cabin by the fuse box, one for power to the 10A fuses, and two to ground the circuits coming back to the dimmer switch. It's a good puzzle. The more you look at it the more it makes sense. Have fun.