Zed Head

I think that H4LIGHTS just went maybe a little too far in describing why you should spend a little more than $0.25 on a relay for something as important as headlights.You're probably experimenting, like I tend to do, but once you get the relay installed, you'll want to leave it. If you get the wring right, there's no reason to go back, unless you don't like the "click" when you turn on the lights. Spend a few more dollars now and you can do it once and leave it, and move on to other improvements. Read the reviews on Amazon about that relay and you'll see that it's not really sufficient for automotive use, especially if it's in the engine bay.

I just ran across FastWoman's post from the past about her headlight relay installation. She posted a detailed diagram and reported that it worked great. I think it was in the same thread as her Maxi-Fuse installation. Search her name with Stinger or maxi-fuse or headlight and you should find it, if you want something to look at. I didn't dig in to it so don't know what she ended up with. The thing with the relays is determining whether you're removing the load from the power supply switch or the high-low beam switch or both. I did a half-way relay and just took the load off of the switch, installing a relay in front of the headlight power at the fuse box. Still running full power through the dimmer switch.

cesar280z, I just realized that you asked two questions. The fuel pressure is the same. But the FPR itself will be different, between 1976 and a ZX. It's designed for the fuel rail. But if you use the ZX rail and the ZX FPR, together (which is what you said you were doing), it will bolt right on, and be an improvement over the 1976 design. FastWoman, your 1978 had the later FPR design with two ports; an in and an out. 1976 has three ports; two ins and one out. So the Zs before 1978 need to swap the rail and the FPR together. It's a better design anyway, with a one piece rail, instead of the three pieces connected by hose.

They're the same. You can check the FSM, Engine Fuel section to be sure.

I'm a fan of wrecking yard relays just because it seems like old BMW is probably better than new aftermarket. My opinion, I could be wrong. Those are typical Bosch relays and can be found under the hood of any BMW. They're numbered and labeled by amperage. Most come with an internal diode or resistor also to quench the high voltage spike that happens when the switch is turned off. Probably not a problem on a headlight circuit but a little extra insurance. Just a little more to think about. Plus I like wandering the junk yard, it's like visiting a museum.

Waking the neighbors? Hearing damage? Seriously, your words say little...

Brake shoe material is designed to have high friction on the interior of the brake drum. I would remove that friction by oiling up the inside of the drum and shoes. Push the drum back on, squirt some oil in, motor oil would probably work well. Spin it around a few times, and keep spinning while you're pulling it off to make sure the contact points get oiled. It will probably slide off fairly easily. The shoes are going in to the garbage anyway and the drum will be easy to clean.

Could you supply the link to the thread you read? Someone else might get more out of it. What engine does the truck have in it? Have you seen the transmission or just an ad on CL?

I just assumed the simplest installation, a straight coil swap, and noticed the resistance when I browsed the instructions. Odds are good though, as you noted, that "a few more things while I'm changing the coil" were done. Who can resist...

Did you get the MSD ballast resistor that comes with it and install it also? Looks like the MSD resistor is 0.8 ohms, the stock one looks to be 1.1 to 1.5 ohms. You might have too much resistance on the primary side. Instructions are here - http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Stock_Replacement/8203_-_Blaster_2_Coil_w/Ballast___Hardware.aspx

I think that everyone who has installed the urethane bushings front and back has run in to this problem. Here's a few things I've learned: - It's easier to get the nut and washer on the rod with the car on the ground. It's very difficult when the wheel is hanging and you're underneath it. Get the front one on and the back one, then drop the car and work from behind the wheel to get the washer and nut on. BUT- many people recommend that you only run the new urethane on the front where it can take the forward braking loads. Leave the stock rubber on the back. This will take the side load off of the tip of the rod and avoid breakage. BUT - many who have changed all of the bushing, including the front control arm bushings, have not had a problem with rod breakage. It seems to be a combination of the stiff TC bushings with the loose rubber control arm bushings that breaks the rod. I broke one and I only had the TC bushings front and back but had not changed the control arm bushings. Things to think about.

I would download the 76, 77 or 78 FSM (the 77 FSM downloads as one big file, 76 and 78 downloads as chapters, easier to use and the systems are similar) and read the Engine Fuel section. Then you'll understand how the EFI works and what is necessary to do the transplant. You''ll need the ECU and the AFM and the EFI wiring harness. You can try to transplant everything or do some of your own wiring. But read the FSM section first, it's very well-written and very informative. You'll need the knowledge anyway to get things right afterward.

FastWoman wrote something up a while ago - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35588-Upgrade-from-fusible-links-to-circuit-breakers/page2&highlight=maxi-fuse

The valve in the AAR is a disc that slides perpendicular to the air flow. So there's really no reason for it to be affected by throttle opening, intake vacuum or RPM. What you think is the AAR working is probably something else. What happens if you press the throttle closed after you get it to hold at 1300? If it goes back down that would be a sign of a sticking throttle, maybe some gunk on the throttle body plate. The BCDD uses engine vacuum to open a passage to allow more air past the throttle body. So it could be affected by intake vacuum. You might have a problem internal to the BCDD (maybe a stuck solenoid since that is what is supposed to be activated by an amplified signal from the speedometer), causing the diaphragm to stick, letting air past the throttle body. Take the vacuum line off of the BCDD and see if that affects anything. That will remove the vacuum that opens the valve, I believe. I'm not 100% clear on the BCDD operation, but that might tell you something.

The half-shaft u-joints are replaceable on all years. The joints are not like US joints though, with a retaining clip on the outside of the bearing cup. The retaining clips are on the inside, riding in a groove in the cup. Some people miss that and try to force them out, destroying the yoke in the process. The clips will fly out, seeking eyeballs or distance when removed. The 240Z and early 260Z u-joints are replaceable in the propeller shaft (what Nissan calls the main drive-shaft). They went to the staked in u-joints for the stout-bodied, big bumper cars apparently. I might be off on the years, but I know the early ones were replaceable. It would be worthwhile to crawl under the car with a strong light and a screwdriver and pry the joints around. It's hard to see a loose one otherwise. Look for dry seals and rust around the edge of the bearing cup. The Nissan joints are very well made and very tight and will last a long time unless they dry out. An old Nissan joint is probably better than a new aftermarket joint, in my opinion. There are six u-joints total, so a full replacement of all can be expensive. While you're under there, get some leverage under the nose of the diff and see how far up you can move it. If it 's easy to move around, it's probably bad. After 40 years, it's probably bad anyway.

What about the TPS not making its throttle closed contact? No idle enrichment "increment" (Blue's attached diagram in Post #16, #2). It's been the culprit for rich running on the full enrichment end, I wonder how much fuel would be missing if it didn't make contact on the idle end.

You could look for the holes in the hatch, from the inside, where the "Five Speed" (or "5 Speed", thought it was the numeral?) insignia would have been mounted. At least you'd know it came with the insignia.

There does not appear to be an easy solution to the "hot start" problem, probably because there is not a firm idea of just what causes the problem. The factory's addition of an injector cooling fan, plus the symptoms of the problem, point toward hot injectors as the source. You might retrofit a ZX cooling fan on to your 77. Get the temperature switch with it if you pick one up.

Can't you just say what you're paying on the forum? I see old brake drums all the time (just saw a pair this morning) that I might pick up and ship your way, to save them from the smelter, for a few extra dollars.

What are the "issues"? The needle doesn't move or it's jumping around or it hangs at high RPM? These are fairly typical tachometer problems. The wire most likely to get disturbed outside of the dash area, is the blue wire from the coil. Is the car still running the original EFI? And stock ignition system? All important factors.

From a standing start? Every gear shift? Is the engine even running? An electrical jolt? Just kidding. Diff mount is the first thing that comes to mind.

Did not know that. I knew the numbers were useless for determining 4 or 5 speed, but didn't know they had date information. Thanks for the insight. Wish I had looked at mine before I installed it... Went out and looked at my ZX 5 speed (came out of a 1981 ZX but has 1980 ratios), easier to see than I thought, and it has 7409303. It's definitely a ZX body, with the speedo hold down bolt at 6 o'clock. Looked at the various transmissions I've collected (kind of embarrassing) "1980" 280ZX (above) - 7409303 Original (as far as I can tell) 1976 280Z 4 speed - 7106146 1978 280Z 5 speed - 7128997 1983 280ZX (speedo bolt down) - 7X64820 Blown up ZX 5 speed year unknown - 7X64845 Edit - those really are Xs in the strings above, not illegible numbers. Just observations. So I'm back to not seeing any information in these numbers. Maybe Nissan stockpiled a boatload of bellhousings and the numbers show when they were made.

The 5 speed was introduced as an option in 1977 as I understand it. Not sure what year your 280 is. I don't think you can tell if the transmission is original or not. If the interface between the engine and transmission looks factory fresh, you might think that it's never been removed. That would be a sign anyway. Otherwise, the numbers on the transmission are apparently irrelevant to anything.

You don't seem to be getting it. This forum isn't here to do WORK for anyone who shows up and asks a question. Your writing style is like having a guy walk up to you in the middle of the street, demanding help, but speaking in a way that can barely be understood. After a few attempts to understand, all you can do is wish the person luck and walk away. Just unload it "as is". Even if you get it running, it will take a lot more work to get it running well. Now back to more interesting threads, from people who put some effort in to communicating.

The engine might still have the high flow 265 cc/min turbo injectors. If it does, the 77 ECU will be dumping too much gas, since it is designed for the 188 cc/min NA injectors. You might be able find some stock injectors at a wrecking yard that will get you by, if that is the case.