Zed Head

What markings are on the injectors you have, and what color are they? I get the impression that some injector companies ID their injectors by color, not marking. My BWD injectors just have RAM molded in to the part, but I don't know if it means anything.

ZX? Looks like a BCDD. No reason for fuel to come out of the hose though.

When you said they took it apart and had the parts in a box, I was thinking of the assembled gears on the adapter plate and the front and back cases, along with a few odd parts. Didn't realize that they would tear it all the way down, taking gears and bearings off of the shafts. Most of what I've read suggests that it's a bad idea to reuse a bearing once you use a puller on it, because it puts high side loads on the ball bearings when they're not rolling, damaging the race and the ball. If that's true, then Aamco knew they had done some damage and was going to put it back together anyway. They should have been able to give you a rough idea without removing the gears and bearings. I think that you might be stuck now, needing a rebuild of at least bearings and probably a little polishing on the gear cones if they do have rust on them (I've read that it can be done). I'm not sure that putting the old bearings and gears back on and running it would be a good idea. I could be wrong. The $131 might still be a decent price for a teardown, if you can get a rebuilder to discount that portion of a rebuild. Now you've got a bunch of choices. Good luck. Edit - One more thought - before you spend more money and time, you might be happier, in the long run, sourcing a late 80 - 83 5 speed, with the close ratio 1-4 gear set. The 77 has the big 2-3 jump and is not the best transmission to rebuild anyway. 80 - 83 has a better reverse lockout also.

I believe that they call this necro-posting. But, at least it completes the thread (dead) for future searchers.

Looks like they're all the same - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/FrontAxle/tabid/1728/Default.aspx

Take a shot of the pointy parts of the teeth on the bronze colored thin gears (synchros), edge on. And try to keep the synchros with the gear that they were on. They should stay matched if possible. I hope the shop didn't just toss everything in a box. Also, if you could take a shot of the conical shiny portion on the side of the gear (upper right in the bottom picture) it looks like there might be some surface rust there. I have an old transmission in my car, and it took a few hundred or more miles before the synchros worked right. I had a theory that the synchro cones had rusted, taking time to wear back in, and you might have some evidence to confirm that it happens. I don't see any dramatic damage. The bearings can stick on the inner race (shaft) or the outer race (housing), it's not uncommon.

I'm no expert. It should work and I'm 99.9% positive it won't hurt. For the record, I went out and measured one that I have in my garage and got 0.477 microfarads (477 nanofarads, tiny numbers). My memory lost some zeros.

It's a small item and might not be on a typical parts store web site. Baxter Auto, a west coast store, carries them, and has them through Amazon also - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-02100-Ignition-Condenser/dp/B000BYELIM I'd be surprised if Napa didn't have them if you called and asked, or paid a visit. It will be aftermarket though so you'll probably have to make a bracket for the body or make sure you get one that has a bracket. You could also buy a set of points even though you have electronic ignition. They will come with a new condenser. I've measured a few and only found two readings, about 50 microfarads and 75 microfarads, if I recall. I doubt that a few microfarads will make a big difference. If you're looking for 1976 stock that could be a search.

I wrote the following while you were editing. You can take the hose off of the AFM and hold the flap open while starting to test the cutoff switch. "In your first post you said it wouldn't start unless the fuel line was pinched, which implies low fuel pressure. But now it will start but won't keep running. How long does it stay running? If it's just a few seconds, then it might be the fuel pump cutoff switch in the AFM. It's bypassed at Start but comes in to play at On."

I would go get it in a box, soon so that parts don't get lost, bring it home, take pictures and post them here. The plug might have been cleaned when the fluid was drained so no clues on condition there. You can take the shifter out of your 72, from inside the car, to test the 5 speed. The shifters will interchange. It's just a clip, and a pin and it pops out. The hardest part is not dropping the clip or having it fly out and hit you in the eye. The parts the shop mentioned are standard full rebuild parts, but the shift forks rarely need work. Sounds like they just quoted you a full, like-new, rebuild cost. It's not Aamco is it? I worked at an Aamco for a summer and their modus operandi is to rebuild everything that drives on to the lot, whether it needs it or not. It's corporate policy.

Hopefully on someone elses's car?

Did you try Zspecialties? He's in your neighborhood. Might not be on the web site but he might have one. http://www.zspecialties.com/

There appears to be a 77 280Z at the Arlington Pick n Pull.

Thinking about how things work, I think that the piston and valve may have collided and you probably have a bent valve. That's how the valve keeper popped out. The lash pad probably got crunched on its way out also. Looks like the valve got stuck open, the piston came up and hit it when the rocker arm was up, punching the valve up faster than the spring could move and letting the keeper and lash pad free. That's the only way I could see that that would happen. Hopefully for you, I'm wrong. You could do a compression check and see if that cylinder holds. If it had a bent valve it should give a zero pressure reading. Edit - For the record, I posted this before I read TimZ's post over on Hybridz. He beat me by 15 minutes. But that's two for valve damage. Different theories, but hard to imagine that you got away free. Also, you can't measure pressure unless you put that keeper back in. You'll probably find though, by spinning the valve and moving it up and down, that it's bent or bound up. Don't let it fall in to the cylinder if you pull the other keeper half out. Full disclosure - I have not even had my cylinder head apart, I'm just working from words I've read.

The bypass plug (adapter) is for the 240Zs. bhermes has a 76 280Z. It's still not too difficult, using home-made jumpers at the plug, although there is the brake check warning lamp relay to worry about. Although, it may be that bhermes is refusing to be beaten by the external system. He'll probably make it work then switch to the internal just to show complete mastery.

Thanks Jeff, that's a good look. Wish I had paint like that. I just posted on Hybridz about using KYBs with Tokicos and got some feedback that it should work fine. I'll try the springs with the KYBs and see if I need to look for another HP shock or not. Should take some of the harsh out of the full Tokico setup, I would guess.

You can at least run it through the gears out of the car and listen for grinding bearings. Wiggle the shafts and see if they're tight. Replace the seals. Did the shop give a written estimate, or mention any damage?

You went from $100 to $1100 or more just to be sure the installation work was worth the effort. Whoa. What kind of alternatives are you looking for, a cheaper place to get a rebuild or a better way to ensure that the 5 speed works once installed? What did the shop find inside the transmission? Did they recommend a rebuild or just tell you what the cost would be? It might be fine as is. You could probably find a whole car with a 5 speed, that you could actually test drive to evaluate the transmission performance, for less than $1100. If you don't need like new condition.

Some meters have a capacitor test function. One lead on the body and one lead on the center wire. The value would be in Farads (named after Faraday, I assume). Microfarads, actually, I believe. It's mysterious...

Cure temperature is very important on these types of two component coatings. A coating applied in the cold could take a long time to fully cure, or not even make it. If it doesn't cure fully, it will soak up fuel, swell, and fail. Ideally, the coating would get a good final stage heat soak before adding fuel. Bring it inside with the family for a day or three before installing. Leave it out in the sun. Put a heat lamp on it. A coating applied in the cold could also flow to the low spots before it sets up, leaving thin areas. Following directions closely is important, no cheating. I've done some work in the coatings industry. For what it's worth.

"After it dies it won't start unless the fuel line is pinched off. Fuel pressure is there but not measured, " Just helping you focus...

I had a similar problem, with oil running down the fork to the boot. I haven't confirmed it, because I have a different transmission in the car, but I think that it might have been leaking from the clutch fork pivot stud. On the FS5W71B, the hole for the stud threads all the way through the front cover to where the transmission fluid is. Looks like you have one of the 71A transmissions but it would be worth checking.

Thanks for at least one capital letter. Although I'm sure it was unintentional. .

Thanks for the picture Blue, and the feedback Jeff. Sounds like the springs are generally good, but the Illumina struts might be on the harsh side. The Illumina's are adjustable though, right? I picked up the springs and three Tokico HP shocks, 3012 and 3013, (buggered one up removing the springs, thought it was just an old original, based on car appearance - turd - and dirt buildup), cause they were cheap and I have cut stock springs right now with KYBs. Something to mess around with in the future. Still interested in pictures or feedback. Too bad they don't make the electrically adjustable shocks like in a Pathfinder - push-button Sport mode would be nice. And, if anyone has one Tokico HP 3012 strut (front) they'd like to sell, I'm in the market.

It is a capacitor, AKA condenser in automotive-speak. Some parts stores sell them, they're also used on the positive terminal of most alternators. I think that the capacity is the same, but if you want to be rigorous you should probably measure it. If you can't find one in a parts store, the wrecking yards are full of them, in a variety of cars. They damp high voltage electrical impulses, also known as "noise" in the electronics world. Originally to make points last longer and for cleaner sound on the radio, but I believe that they also offer protection to the solid state electronics of the alternator, ignition and ECU on more modern cars. I've used a condenser to stop electrical noise from screwing up my tachometer reading after installing a different coil. The engine will run without it, but there might long-term effects. Nissan had a reason... That's my current understanding (punning again).