Zed Head

In my reading around the web, I got the impression that there might have been some cars with the very early HEI systems that had some problems. But the cause might have been the coils, not the modules, since they both get very hot inside the distributor cap. Or just bad early modules. Overall, it appears to an automotive urban myth. It gets repeated a lot but I haven't seen anyone confirm it. I don't have a favorite module. It's a very common part, so market forces should drive the price down to low margin. You probably get what you pay for. I paid a few extra dollars for the BWD brand with a longer warranty. If you try it, don't forget that the module is electrically grounded through one of the mounting lugs. Make sure that you have good contact or run a separate ground wire from the lug to a known good ground. Also, trim the little plastic nub off of the bottom of the module so that it has good thermal contact with the surface its mounted on. All ignition modules need to dissipate some heat when they're in use.

The Zdriver wriiteup is designed to use the HEI module as a replacement for the "turbo ignitor" on the turbo ZXs with ECU dwell and timing control. The ECU triggers the "ignitor" or transistor in that case. The "signal" wire to the ECU and the ground wire takes the place of the two distributor wires. It doesn't apply to the NA cars that use the trigger signal from the reluctor in the distributor and an ignition module. For a 1978 (and 74 - 77), you can connect everything in the engine bay, right at the coil and distributor. Just run jumper wires from the coil, one from coil + to B, one from coil - to C, and then disconnect the red and green wires from the distributor at the junction on the fenderwell, and connect red to W, and green to G. G and W read the pulse from the reluctor and B and C is the "breaker" circuit in the module. The reason to disconnect the stock module is so that the HEI module can break the circuit. The HEI module will now control dwell, and making and breaking the coil primary circuit. The main reason to do it is if your other module conks out, they're expensive, or if you want to try a higher power coil without the ballast resistor (which 1978 doesn't have any more anyway).

turbo

Never mind. I thought I had translated the OP's message, but realized I don't have a clue what he's talking about.

You can just unplug the stock ignition module. The wires to the tachometer and the ECU are separate and will not be affected. I did this on my 1976 car and it's been working fine for over a year. I'm pretty sure that FastWoman has an HEI module on her 1978 car, if you wanted to send her a PM to get another opinion.

Are you using a screw-in gauge or one of those ones with the rubber plug you hold in the spark plug hole? It's odd that you would lose 50 and 40 psi on 3 and 4 just from sitting for a day. The measurement results doesn't look right. They should be consistent, if you're not starting the engine between measurements. You said the first was cold, so I assume that you measured cold, waited a day and measured cold again. No reason for the head gasket to blow, just sitting.

I would go to the link below and ask. Most of the discussions here are for making the car more road-worthy, not less. http://stanceworks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=4

I've taken a couple of front covers off recently and found that a heat gun or torch on the cover to loosen the gasket and any sealer helped. Then I used a piece of wood through the clutch fork hole, and a hammer, on the base of the pivot ball to break it loose. You can also use wood to build a fulcrum at the hole and your choice of lever to pry up on the back of the pivot ball. I used the wood to avoid chipping or breaking the case or pivot ball. The heat made a difference, plus some PB Blaster around the edge of the cover. It will soak in to the gasket and soften it up. I would heat it up, spray some Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Aerokroil around the edge, let it soak, pop the back of the pivot ball a few times, then see if it will lever off. I had two that were stuck really tight.

Let me guess - you just came back from a Super Bowl party?

These should help - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ Read through them a couple of times before you post any questions over there. Good luck.

This is classiczcars.com You want to go to www.hybridz.org to get help with your project. They are stern taskmasters over there though, so best to browse through the forums first and do some reading before asking questions. Your project will take a lot of work, and either lots of money or very good fabricating skills, or both.

There's a chapter on Engine Control, Fuel & Exhaust System in the FSM - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html It does mention removing a cross-member to remove the muffler. Installation is reverse of removal.

Looks like you might have found FW's post already but here it is again, just in case - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35588-Upgrade-from-fusible-links-to-circuit-breakers/page2&highlight=stinger+relay There are different ways to use relays to take the loads off of the switches. In addition to FW's method and Dave's harnesses, you could also use three relays in the cabin by the fuse box, one for power to the 10A fuses, and two to ground the circuits coming back to the dimmer switch. It's a good puzzle. The more you look at it the more it makes sense. Have fun.

I think that H4LIGHTS just went maybe a little too far in describing why you should spend a little more than $0.25 on a relay for something as important as headlights.You're probably experimenting, like I tend to do, but once you get the relay installed, you'll want to leave it. If you get the wring right, there's no reason to go back, unless you don't like the "click" when you turn on the lights. Spend a few more dollars now and you can do it once and leave it, and move on to other improvements. Read the reviews on Amazon about that relay and you'll see that it's not really sufficient for automotive use, especially if it's in the engine bay.

I just ran across FastWoman's post from the past about her headlight relay installation. She posted a detailed diagram and reported that it worked great. I think it was in the same thread as her Maxi-Fuse installation. Search her name with Stinger or maxi-fuse or headlight and you should find it, if you want something to look at. I didn't dig in to it so don't know what she ended up with. The thing with the relays is determining whether you're removing the load from the power supply switch or the high-low beam switch or both. I did a half-way relay and just took the load off of the switch, installing a relay in front of the headlight power at the fuse box. Still running full power through the dimmer switch.

cesar280z, I just realized that you asked two questions. The fuel pressure is the same. But the FPR itself will be different, between 1976 and a ZX. It's designed for the fuel rail. But if you use the ZX rail and the ZX FPR, together (which is what you said you were doing), it will bolt right on, and be an improvement over the 1976 design. FastWoman, your 1978 had the later FPR design with two ports; an in and an out. 1976 has three ports; two ins and one out. So the Zs before 1978 need to swap the rail and the FPR together. It's a better design anyway, with a one piece rail, instead of the three pieces connected by hose.

They're the same. You can check the FSM, Engine Fuel section to be sure.

I'm a fan of wrecking yard relays just because it seems like old BMW is probably better than new aftermarket. My opinion, I could be wrong. Those are typical Bosch relays and can be found under the hood of any BMW. They're numbered and labeled by amperage. Most come with an internal diode or resistor also to quench the high voltage spike that happens when the switch is turned off. Probably not a problem on a headlight circuit but a little extra insurance. Just a little more to think about. Plus I like wandering the junk yard, it's like visiting a museum.

Waking the neighbors? Hearing damage? Seriously, your words say little...

Brake shoe material is designed to have high friction on the interior of the brake drum. I would remove that friction by oiling up the inside of the drum and shoes. Push the drum back on, squirt some oil in, motor oil would probably work well. Spin it around a few times, and keep spinning while you're pulling it off to make sure the contact points get oiled. It will probably slide off fairly easily. The shoes are going in to the garbage anyway and the drum will be easy to clean.

Could you supply the link to the thread you read? Someone else might get more out of it. What engine does the truck have in it? Have you seen the transmission or just an ad on CL?

I just assumed the simplest installation, a straight coil swap, and noticed the resistance when I browsed the instructions. Odds are good though, as you noted, that "a few more things while I'm changing the coil" were done. Who can resist...

Did you get the MSD ballast resistor that comes with it and install it also? Looks like the MSD resistor is 0.8 ohms, the stock one looks to be 1.1 to 1.5 ohms. You might have too much resistance on the primary side. Instructions are here - http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Stock_Replacement/8203_-_Blaster_2_Coil_w/Ballast___Hardware.aspx

I think that everyone who has installed the urethane bushings front and back has run in to this problem. Here's a few things I've learned: - It's easier to get the nut and washer on the rod with the car on the ground. It's very difficult when the wheel is hanging and you're underneath it. Get the front one on and the back one, then drop the car and work from behind the wheel to get the washer and nut on. BUT- many people recommend that you only run the new urethane on the front where it can take the forward braking loads. Leave the stock rubber on the back. This will take the side load off of the tip of the rod and avoid breakage. BUT - many who have changed all of the bushing, including the front control arm bushings, have not had a problem with rod breakage. It seems to be a combination of the stiff TC bushings with the loose rubber control arm bushings that breaks the rod. I broke one and I only had the TC bushings front and back but had not changed the control arm bushings. Things to think about.

I would download the 76, 77 or 78 FSM (the 77 FSM downloads as one big file, 76 and 78 downloads as chapters, easier to use and the systems are similar) and read the Engine Fuel section. Then you'll understand how the EFI works and what is necessary to do the transplant. You''ll need the ECU and the AFM and the EFI wiring harness. You can try to transplant everything or do some of your own wiring. But read the FSM section first, it's very well-written and very informative. You'll need the knowledge anyway to get things right afterward.