Zed Head

Maybe these should be called "PerfectoMods". "The authenticity of the Masterpieces was affirmed in October 2024, when Takeo Miyazaki, a member of the original S30 development team at Nissan, tested three completed cars. After experiencing them firsthand, Miyazaki San remarked that the cars “truly brought him back in time and that he was amazed with the perfection in details” ..." Interesting that S30.World is based in The Netherlands but the BaT auction is being coordinated by Garage44 in Pennsylvania. I'd guess that the target buyers are here in the States. Many moving parts. I wonder if they'll bring the car(s) over, or if they're already here for viewing. https://bringatrailer.com/member/garage44/ https://garage-44.com/contact/ ""The commitment to quality and accuracy exhibited in these restorations is unsurpassed. I am excited to partner with S30.world and bring these special 240Z's to market" says Adam Eisenhauer, from Garage 44, the US firm coordinating the sale of the cars in the United States."

Looks like they're only selling one, to start. Wonder which. BaT has been having a run of RNM's lately. https://s30.world/collection https://s30.world/masterpieces "... A limited-run of factory-correct restorations of the iconic Datsun 240Z will become available, with the first one to be sold at auction in the United States on October 23rd 2025. ... The auction will take place on the renowned Bring-a-trailer site, and it represents a rare opportunity for collectors and enthusiasts to own a piece of automotive history. The auction date of October 23rd, 2025 ..."

The link works. Not obvious how to get in to the pictures though. Clcik on the Google Drive link, a new page will open > double click on a folder name > double click on the first picture > then you can scroll through all of the pictures in the folder using the arrows on the sides. It's pretty well deconstructed. A box truck would probably be best for transport, or a trailer with room for parts.

Might help to identify where it is on the body. Probably recognizable to the guys that have torn their cars down but most have only seen carpet and interior fabrics.

Somebody bought it? Don't know who Mark is.

I was just passing on a comment from the listing. Don't know who LookCloser is, but apparently he did. I think the rubber was just old and aged though, and the backward washers had little to do with the cracking. Many commenters were expecting over $100k, but those small details are often signs of bigger problems. Surprised it wasn't caught by the seller or the owner.

This seems to be one of those cars with its own fan club. Interesting. A Players Club car. Dilettantes need not apply! "This isn’t a car for dilettantes or dabblers… it’s for connoisseurs and real players…"

It didn't bring anything. Not moving. Isn't this guy a CZCC member? "JDM Car Parts and Restoration founder Tsuguya “Jay” Ataka". There were some small things that might have hurt it, like below, with the TC rod bushing. Small part, its degraded quality impossible to miss. He owns a car parts company. But, the money doesn't seem to be flowing anyway.

Yikes! $64,000

Who is Paul and where is it being sold? That "rarest of the Fairladies" is finishing today. I've noticed many "Bid to"'s though. People are getting tight with their funds, I think. Edit, aside - always funny how the sellers tell people how to use their computers so they don't screw up in the final two minutes. Smart enough to make an extra $100k or more to blow on a collector car, too dumb to know how to get the money spent. "As the listing approaches the end over the next few hours I’d recommend refreshing your screen and having the auction on two devices so it’s in live time." Bring a Trailer1971 Nissan Fairlady Z 5-SpeedBid for the chance to own a 1971 Nissan Fairlady Z 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #211,860.

You guys probably know this but if you're trying to restick an original headliner often the foam backing is so degraded that it fails internally, not at the surface. Just posting for anybody who ends up like I did. I used 3M contact adhesive in a spray can. But the foam was "toasted" (literally) and it sagged again. I never did scrape off the old foam and try again. What I should have done.

What year is your car? How about a description? Stock, modified, round tops, flat tops... @Patel Homes

@Patel Homes Are you a home building company?

You forgot the link!

Bonus Nazareth track -

Here's another original plus the one that made it big. Apparently these guys are still touring.

Looks like constant hot by the diagram. It comes directly from the fuse block and has a ground. Not sure what you're working with or if it's together or not (why not just check with a test light or meter?) but if it's apart you can check continuity back to the fuse block, or if it has a fuse in place, check continuity back to the positive battery cable end.

I think that the common high pressure electric fuel pump uses steel rollers in a steel cage. I took an old one apart once. There are other designs. The old Z fuel systems are pretty leaky. They let moist air in to the tank. The gas filler cap vacuum relief seals are usually shot. Wouldn't be a surpise if you had condensed water n the tank and the gasoline has dissolved water in it. Gas will hold some water, especially ethanol-containing fuel. If you don't want to drain the tank it might be worthwhile to use some HEET or other dewatering agent. https://www.goldeagle.com/product/iso-heet-fuel-line-antifreeze-injector-cleaner/

Does that help your back or make it worse?

Your clutch master and slave cylinders are probably corroded and have bad seals. If it's been sitting for ten years. Your brake master cylnder also, along with the rear wheel cylinders and maybe the caliper bores. It's just what happens. I would remove the brake master cylinder before trying to use it, before you squirt brake fluid in to the vacuum booster. If you're lucky the brake booster is dry and still usable. Nickels and dimes...

You need to read this. It will explain how the things work that you're playing with.

You need to read this. It will expalin how the things work that you're playing with.

First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. Actually the tachometer and the ECU use the same circuit for the coil discharge signal, from the coil negative terminal. It's branched. One end goes to the ignition module for spark creation, one to the tachometer for the RPM measurement, and one to the ECU pin #1 for injector timing. Every third spark the ECU squirts half the fuel "calculated" to be necessary.

Don't throw the parts away. They have value to somebody.

If you do get the engine running well, replace all of the old fuel lines on the rail and the injectors before too much driving. I smelled gasoline on mine one day while driving and when I opened the hood a tiny stream of gasoline shot by me on to the sidewalk. They dry out and crack lengthwise. The small stuff will eat up a lot of your time but it's worth it once you're done.