Zed Head

The pedal box on my car was mangled and abused. Somebody got frustrated. I had suggested using a thread or wire from inside the cabin to get the clevis pin back in to its hole during reassembly. Mine was worn, with a groove in it, and was clicking whenever I used the clutch. A pair of locking medical forceps/hemostats might help. Like long nose pliers but you don't have to maintain a grip. https://commonsensedental.com/shop/hemostats/

Amazon says 17". Take the old ones off and go to the parts store. Use whatever matches.

Since it's under the white cover you could just punch the wire through from the bottom, put a new terminal on it, and glue it in. Nobody will know but you.

Trying to fix the internet is a hopeless task. https://www.truckpro.com/p/trico-plastic-refills-44-170/ww44-170/ (I am not in Balzac) Walmart thinks it's a 22" vehicle.

Requiem for a termite...

You can remove the slave cylinder from the transmission and let it spin instead of spinning the nut. Hold the nut stationary, spin the fitting on the end of the hose. Once it breaks free and you know it will come off, cut the hose. Spin the new one on, reinstall the slave cylinder. Saw a video about a similar problem with a brake line. I've found that heat helps too.

You might find a later model "smog canister" that would work. Maybe even fit it inside the factory bucket. Weird how these two words don't fit together, for some reason. Smog canister...🤔 PnP - 343-4 SMOG CANISTER Car $36.99 $0.00

The charcoal/carbon can get clogged. Somebody must have figured out a way to change it. Found a possibility. Probably messy. https://www.vaportrapper.com/product-page/charcoal-refill-kit-for-vapor-trapper

Could be a sidewall bubble. That's an ancient tire. The internet says that size tire has a width of 6.9 inches. A tape measure would tell if the tire is out of spec. And a picture of what's underneath the tire might show something. Beside all of that, would you ever actually use that tire as a spare? If it's just for show you might as well let all of the air out. And I don't think I would try to inflate it to full pressure. It might blow. https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/175R14.htm

DutchDatsun https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-282/

This might help on the removal and installation after you find some. Most of my wiper changes have been difficult, across many models of car/truck. The various buttons and hooks and clips are usually stuck and don't move like they're supposed to. Good luck. https://www.tricoproducts.com/removal/video https://www.tricoproducts.com/wiper-blade-installation

Here's more about the vapor lock and/or percolation problem. Uploading Attachment...

Tell a story, post a picture. You probably meant HLS30-441272. I searched the number and nothing comes up. Good luck.

Rings?

This song was way ahead of its time.

Ukrainian and Portuguese. The second might make sense if the guy was messing around or was from Brasil (Brazil - I might be a bot!) or Portugal, but how does w3wilkes's post get converted to Ukrainian? Weird stuff! Posting an image so "he" won't know. 😎 It said "I like your choice! I support you.".

Like this. Edit - messed up the post. But you already know what I'm talking about... Whoever these guys are, they really screwed up on the company name. "grease stick" means almost nothing. Who cares if it's American. American Grease Stick. Weird stuff! https://www.oreillyauto.com/search?q=grease+stick+brake+line+repair+hose

If the length is short it might be worth checking your local auto parts store for precut, preflared, prefitted brake line. I wnt to my local Oreilly Auto and they had a whole wall of different combinations in the back to choose from. Autozone carried a few also. The straight lengths are cheap. They're in the back. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-lines/b06e09cb5226

Looks like this. Up by the throttle body, with hoses connected to it, and an electrical connection. Free! VINTAGE DATSUN AND NISSAN PARTSX AAR Auxiliary Air Regulator Datsun 76-78 280Z S30, 79-8...

Another electrical component that's powered at Start is the thermotime switch and cold start valve system. You've done some good diagnostic work. If it was mine, I'd look for possible current draws during start. Unplugging the cold start valve and the AAR are simple and easy and might show an effect. You could measure voltage drops across the connectors also but why not just unplug? Both weak pump and low voltage could be happening at the same time.

So, the engine won't start unless you have battery voltage directly to the fuel pump when trying to start? Could just be a weak pump. Voltage drop when starting is normal due to the draw from the starter motor. You might find that with the relay bypass you're using that you're getting 10.5 volts instead of 10. Just enough to get the pump moving. Where is the second relay and how do you have it wired? What are you using to control it? You didn't say if you unplugged the AAR to see if it was drawing enough current to cause a problem. Also, it's not clear if the pump is not running or if there is some other problem. You haven't said that you don't have fuel pressure. Just that you only see 10 volts. (Edit - I think that a good pump will pump with 10 volts). Just trying to help sort the facts. Good luck.

Looks like the AAR (air regulator) is on the same circuit. The full 77 wiring diagram is in the Resources area if you want to find the connectors. And, the ignition relay and EFI/pump relays can be taken apart. Sometimes there's a surprise inside. Might be worthwhile to measure your voltage with a small load, like a light bulb.

For the money you're looking at spending these guys might be a good option. They have a good reputation. https://www.datsunspirit.com/

Okay, I'll just take an image next time. I do like to keep track of these things though, and warn people that might not be fully aware (meta). It's happening everywhere.

It kind of suggests a stuck pump. More details about what you're trying to figure out might help.