Zed Head

Ukrainian and Portuguese. The second might make sense if the guy was messing around or was from Brasil (Brazil - I might be a bot!) or Portugal, but how does w3wilkes's post get converted to Ukrainian? Weird stuff! Posting an image so "he" won't know. 😎 It said "I like your choice! I support you.".

Like this. Edit - messed up the post. But you already know what I'm talking about... Whoever these guys are, they really screwed up on the company name. "grease stick" means almost nothing. Who cares if it's American. American Grease Stick. Weird stuff! https://www.oreillyauto.com/search?q=grease+stick+brake+line+repair+hose

If the length is short it might be worth checking your local auto parts store for precut, preflared, prefitted brake line. I wnt to my local Oreilly Auto and they had a whole wall of different combinations in the back to choose from. Autozone carried a few also. The straight lengths are cheap. They're in the back. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-lines/b06e09cb5226

Looks like this. Up by the throttle body, with hoses connected to it, and an electrical connection. Free! VINTAGE DATSUN AND NISSAN PARTSX AAR Auxiliary Air Regulator Datsun 76-78 280Z S30, 79-8...

Another electrical component that's powered at Start is the thermotime switch and cold start valve system. You've done some good diagnostic work. If it was mine, I'd look for possible current draws during start. Unplugging the cold start valve and the AAR are simple and easy and might show an effect. You could measure voltage drops across the connectors also but why not just unplug? Both weak pump and low voltage could be happening at the same time.

So, the engine won't start unless you have battery voltage directly to the fuel pump when trying to start? Could just be a weak pump. Voltage drop when starting is normal due to the draw from the starter motor. You might find that with the relay bypass you're using that you're getting 10.5 volts instead of 10. Just enough to get the pump moving. Where is the second relay and how do you have it wired? What are you using to control it? You didn't say if you unplugged the AAR to see if it was drawing enough current to cause a problem. Also, it's not clear if the pump is not running or if there is some other problem. You haven't said that you don't have fuel pressure. Just that you only see 10 volts. (Edit - I think that a good pump will pump with 10 volts). Just trying to help sort the facts. Good luck.

Looks like the AAR (air regulator) is on the same circuit. The full 77 wiring diagram is in the Resources area if you want to find the connectors. And, the ignition relay and EFI/pump relays can be taken apart. Sometimes there's a surprise inside. Might be worthwhile to measure your voltage with a small load, like a light bulb.

For the money you're looking at spending these guys might be a good option. They have a good reputation. https://www.datsunspirit.com/

Okay, I'll just take an image next time. I do like to keep track of these things though, and warn people that might not be fully aware (meta). It's happening everywhere.

It kind of suggests a stuck pump. More details about what you're trying to figure out might help.

Be careful with California Datsun. Many of the parts on the web site are available elsewhere for much less. The owner does not have a history of selling quality work. He used to be called Datsunparts LLC. He has posted as URGELIS on this forum. You can find old threads about him. He even has a Facebook group dedicated to his company, with very recent posts. You have to sign in to see all of them, of course. Facebook sucks too. https://www.facebook.com/groups/113826448958872/

Rex has the signs of an AI chatbot. Randomly popping up with specific advice on somebody's thread. Emojis. Odd comments. Look at the wedding photo posts. They're getting "better". The ultimate goal of the AI chatbot research is to convince real humans that they are talking to a real human. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/45905-rex_morten/

Oops. Got distracted. But, in review, somehow Warty has a different part number in his table for the first style. Not sure where that table came from. Here's a clip of the partsmanual page. Different part number for the early style that he probably wants. The part number for the first style, of the three, comes back as just a Nissan bolt when searched. Seems to be available. https://wholesale.autometro.lv/catalog/08110-63510/?__cf_chl_f_tk=z0cpQ.B0.X_.TBiOwGUQOn4vw0anSLJ9Z5vw0088viI-1782870619-1.0.1.1-EQDgDX1yGQ26g0Qn2HCzgMH4oYsE05f2CjNkuE52ATE

Here's the part numbers for the different styles. 6 and 7. 🤢 😵 https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/accelerator-choke-throttle Datsun Z Accelerator Pedal, Choke & Throttle Control L24,...

Blue wrote up a thing about injectors on his AtlanticZ web site. He didn't mention ZX NA injectors but I'm sure that they're the same. It's the same injection and basic EFI system. He also has a good part number for the connectors. I picked up a set of the springed/sprung connectors from a Volvo 240. Get rid of those little wire clips, they're a pain. Any EV1 style injector connector will work. Roam the salvage yard for early 70s and 80s cars. Even some GM cars used them. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

Pretty, pretty, pretty sure that 75 - 83 NA are the same. 300ZX would be different. 280ZX Turbo has a different flow rate. But they're a purple color, not tan or green. The insulators changed over the years. They look different but they fit the same. Many of the early EFI engines used these injectors. Even Jaguar used them for a few years. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

The message was on the main Hybridz forum page. Not sure how he created it, maybe public messaging. Hope he doesn't mind his email being out there.

That is called a pintle cap. It's removable. Used to be able to buy them, but you can probably swap one over, if you find the injector is worth keeping. They look pretty crusty! Watch out for other style of cap, there's a variety. Looks like eBay has possibilities that might work.

I feel like a dummy now. That makes sense.

All of that crud passed through the pump. Yikes. I had a heck of a time reassembling the breaker plate after taking it apart. The clips that hold it together were hard to manipulate. You make it sound easy. You must have some skills!

This was posted on Hybridz. Mayolives Zed HeadZed Head. I hope that you can help me. I'm mayolives here and at hybridz and at classiczcar. I've been a member of both for probably 20 yaers. I'm using a new computer and can't get into my classiczcars account. The site says to put in my email address (mayolives@aol.com) and a recovery email will be sent to me. I've tried that a half dozed times with no reply. I've tried to set up a temp account to contact the admin. but it won't allow me using my email. Could you contact the classiczcars admin for me and pass on the information. I sure would like to get back in over there. Thank you for any help you can provide.

The AI chatbots are getting enthusiastically worse. ! How can that be? This one seems to have copied in some citation numbers also, followed by bad information. Slop! There is a link to an engine finding service in the UK though. Wonder if it's a spammer from there.

Who knows? That's why I put them together, it just seemed weird. Pretty good price for a 280Z.

I appreciate the discussion jonbill. Not sure why my communication about not using Google Password Manager is not getting through. I don't have Google or Chrome save passwords. Here is one possibility though - in the past I might have chosen to "stay signed in". I would guess that that requires the password to be saved somewhere. Maybe in Google Password Manager. But, I never have asked Google Password Manager or Chrome or any other app to save my passwords. I type them in every time. But #2 - your link (thanks for that), seems to explain it, and it fits what I suggested above. I guess I should read those Chrome/Google update notices. I didn't realize that Chrome had "access" to everybody's passwords. It's interesting that they do because it implies that they can compare passwords across multiple websites. If you had some sort of uniquely identifiable password they could have a list of every web site you had ever joined, if you used the same password. "Anonymous" of course. Plus they have time stamps of every time you signed in. Nothng you do on the internet is really private. Whenever Google discovers a username and password exposed by another company’s data breach, we store a hashed and encrypted copy of the data on our servers with a secret key known only to Google. When you sign in to a website, Chrome will send a hashed copy of your username and password to Google encrypted with a secret key only known to Chrome. No one, including Google, is able to derive your username or password from this encrypted copy.

Alrighty then, back on track. I found this article on S30.World that is pretty fascinating. https://s30.world/articles/the-s30-240z-sports-option-competition-nismo-adjustable-suspension