Zed Head

The number does look familiar. But, unfortunately, when you search it, not much shows up. It's something that I've noticed recently, that many of the old sources that I was sure are out there on the web, seem to be missing. I think it might have something to do with the monetizing of the internet. On top of that, the genius AI chatbots and their "overviews" cite posts from Reddit or forums like Ratsun as authoritative references. They just steal from the single source and post it as their own creation. The internet is getting really weird. https://www.google.com/search?q=ngk+U1099 https://ratsun.net/topic/83046-1977-620-l20b-no-spark-condition-on-fuel-injection-conversion/

How do you know it's the correct coil? RockAuto doesn't show it as a choice. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,ignition,ignition+coil,7060

Actually, some specs are there, I missed them. Pretty wide range. Looks like RockAuto is confused though on the ballast reistor. They list one for use with the "external resistor" even though, as CO pointed out, 1978 doesn't use it. It has the module with current limiting capability. I'd just go down to Oreilly Auto with my meter and see what they're selling. (Edit - actually I'd probably just go to the wrecking yard with my meter. Coils are spendy at the parts stores!) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=940830&cc=1209260&pt=7060&jsn=448 (what's a 200 scale?)

Rockauto has a selection of coils. Probably meet spec. although they don't show them. You might start planning for the ignition module to fail though. It's what they do.

How about the voltage regulator? It has moving points that could get stuck. Maybe it's backfeeding in to the ignition system. The brake light in the dash should light when the key is on, engine not running, but go off when the engine is running. I think that that is also controlled through the VR. Should start and run with it unplugged. Maybe you'll get lucky. Edit - actually I'm not sure what it will do if you unplug it. Have to study the wiring diagram. If you have a spare it might be worthwhile to swap it.

Maybe the reference to 1979 and 80's got the thinking off-track? I see 280z. Blue had a ZX transmission though, in his writeup. Maybe even bent the shifter, it looks bluish at the base. Anyway, he's got plenty to think about now.

The 280ZX shifter has a rectangular hole, those bushings won't fit a Z shifter. Not clear why he'd get one of those if he got a 280Z transmission. The ZX shifter looks a bit stout for bending also. Who knows!? 🤔 I found this old posting from Blue. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html

Be prepared to lose the circlip that holds the clevis that has the two bushings on it. Be very careful. It will be slippery and fly far. And don't just eyeball the shifter bushings from the top. The bushing on the bottom can fail also. You'll want to pull it all the way out and have a look. Many, maybe all, of the parts are still available from Nissan. You might just stop by your local Nissan dealer and get a full set of bushings, clevis pin, and clip to be prepared. That's what I'd do. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed Datsun Z Transmission Control Lever & Fork (5 Speed-FS5W7...

I bought a rebuilt AFM from MotorSport Auto and found that it was too rich at idle to pass emissions. I could open the bypass up all the way and it was still too rich. I had to reinstall an old used one that came on a 78 parts car. Something to be aware of. That was in 2009. No idea what today's rebult AFMs are like.

I went through a pretty thorough alternate injector search back when I was trying to solve the "hot start" problem. I found that these early injectors were at the very low end of the flow rate spectrum. If you find a later injector that you want to try you will probably need an adjustable FPR. Also, most later injectors used 3 bar (~43 psi) instead of 2.5 (36.3). The early injectors are just very primitive. Not many choices out there. I didn't download that link, but I did dig up an old web site that somebody put together that might be worth a browse. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

I'd look for one that fits the top. It will be more precise on raising the nut. A washer in the tube might sit on a weld bump or some other oddity at the bottom. Fender washers come in assorted sizes. https://www.tacomascrew.com/Catalog/fasteners/washers/fender-washers Not sure what you mean by "play" but the insulators are known to separate. The rubber degrades.

Could you distinguish the mechanical part of the switch from the electrical part? You showed three assemblies of mechanism and electrical switch so I'd guess you just unplugged each and plugged in a new one, then turned the key. But it's not clear. Hard to see how three different assemblies could be a switch problem. Seems more likely to be shorted wires in the harness. Anyway, here's what I mean by electrical part. You can manipulate it with a screwdriver. You might take your switch apart and give it a twist. Edit - I'm not sure if it's possible but I could imagine a scenario where the mechanical part allows the electrical part to over-roate backward and hit Start. Don't know. The mechanical part is just a long thin rod that fits in the slot to turn it. I had to give mine a bend to get it to turn far enough, when I had some starting problems. https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510?

You are not alone. Maybe you saw this old thread, below. A washer should do the trick. I've seen other threads where people noted that the welds at the bottom of the tube can change the position of the shock/insert. They're not all the same. It was not designed to have a shock body inside it.

I agree with the up and down part. Not so sure about a trend, either way. It's unpredictable. My point about the Dutch Z is that it's in The Netherlands. Maybe the European market is softer than US. There's been some decent numbers recently in the States. Maybe it's the color? 🤔 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-405/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-397/

The nuts are designed to center the shock body before clamping the shock body in to the strut tube, for replacement shocks. On the original setup the gland nut has a seal that centers the shaft and contains the oil. The gland nut is actually a functional part of the strut. On the replacement shocks, the "gland nut" is not actually a gland nut. It's just a nut used to hold a shock absorber. It does no glanding. Do you have replacement shocks or the original parts?

This looks like a possible restoration candidate. 6144. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-151/

Did not make it. Might have been worthwhile to have Garage44 sell it in the States. About $21,000.

I had a similar thought. I can't remember if that stop is actually contacted in a normal/unmolested AFM . Would be interesting to see other AFM's. The vane itself has rubber bumpers on it, I believe. With the engine running neither "stop" is in use, air flow keeps the vane open. When I was adjusting my AFM to pass emissions I found that the best way was to screw the screw out until you get some effect/stumbling, then screw it back in to a steady RPM. Screwing it out leans things, in makes it richer. In Oregon we got free trips through the emissions station though, so you could tune on the fly. Only downside was waiting in line.

The pedal box on my car was mangled and abused. Somebody got frustrated. I had suggested using a thread or wire from inside the cabin to get the clevis pin back in to its hole during reassembly. Mine was worn, with a groove in it, and was clicking whenever I used the clutch. A pair of locking medical forceps/hemostats might help. Like long nose pliers but you don't have to maintain a grip. https://commonsensedental.com/shop/hemostats/

Amazon says 17". Take the old ones off and go to the parts store. Use whatever matches.

Since it's under the white cover you could just punch the wire through from the bottom, put a new terminal on it, and glue it in. Nobody will know but you.

Trying to fix the internet is a hopeless task. https://www.truckpro.com/p/trico-plastic-refills-44-170/ww44-170/ (I am not in Balzac) Walmart thinks it's a 22" vehicle.

Requiem for a termite...

You can remove the slave cylinder from the transmission and let it spin instead of spinning the nut. Hold the nut stationary, spin the fitting on the end of the hose. Once it breaks free and you know it will come off, cut the hose. Spin the new one on, reinstall the slave cylinder. Saw a video about a similar problem with a brake line. I've found that heat helps too.

You might find a later model "smog canister" that would work. Maybe even fit it inside the factory bucket. Weird how these two words don't fit together, for some reason. Smog canister...🤔 PnP - 343-4 SMOG CANISTER Car $36.99 $0.00