Zed Head

The meter or light would be used on the connection at the end of the harness. With the engine running. You can connect 12 volts (maybe even just 9, not sure) to the two pins on the AAR and wait and see if it closes. It doesn't have to close all the way. The amount that it moves will determine how much idle speed change you get.

You might have saved some money then. Do you have a meter or test light and know how to use them? It's pretty hard to get by on a 280Z or even a 240Z without that ability. The parts cannon is not a precise weapon.

Actually, per Cliff/siteunseen's response, the answer is "undefined". "Distributor alignment" doesn't mean much. But Cliff's answer has what you need.

What ratio? "Original" could mean many different ratios.

The crusty one on the side is probably a switch. Nissan used a variety of combinations of switches over the years. Without the year of vehicle and engine a person can only guess.

I had a problem for a while with low idle RPM killing my fuel pump power and bent the rod to keep it powered. There should be a gap when the vane/flap is closed. Might be that somebody in the past adjusted yours. There might be other adjustments, but the switch should definitely be open, have a gap, when the vane is shut. That's the whole point of the switch.

Borrowed this from an eBay ad. Can't remember exactly which one but this was the location.

On mine, the bent part was right behind the knob itself. Behind the panel. You have to remove the panel to get to it.

I haven't built any engines but a few things popped out at me when I read through the thread. Did you use an adapter when you measured cylinder pressure, and did you open the throttle bores and get a good cranking speed? Your pressure numbers are way low, they look like adapter numbers. The adapter makes the combustion chamber seem bigger. With 8.3 CR you should have higher pressures. Like 150 - 185. I got 185's on a stock 1978 L28. No adapter, small gauge volume. What, exactly, is in the head will be important. The main advantage of the other heads is the bigger valves and ports. You need that if you want to hit 7000 RPM. The E88's have a smaller intake valve, I think, than the L28 engines. I have read about two forms of E88 head also. I think the difference is in the size of the combustion chamber. You probably won't be able to make a good decision until you get the head off and see what's in it and has been done to it. The people that do engines say the power is in the head. Or, conversely, the head is what's holding the engine back. The heads just don't flow well in stock form. Just regurgitating... p.s. you can look up some of jmortensen's old posts and he says that all of the "Stage" cams are pretty low on the "radical" scale. He tried all of them I think and didn't really have any problems. He always recommends going bigger, the 1 and the 2 are barely changed from stock. He was unimpressed with them.

Here's an old post from another forum (it's me). https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119576-rocker-arms-state-of-the-situation/

You can run the engine for a short while with the belts off. If the noise goes away it's something a belt was turning. Or the damper pulley (the drive pulley). AC idler pulley bearings are known to go bad and make noise.

I think that those are just mold/casting numbers. Same part design, same factory, just different forming stations. They're all collected together then sent off to another manufacturing station for the pad attachment and final machining.

I had that problem. The control wire is bent. Somebody moved it too fast or it was stuck in the sheath and they forced it. Take it apart and you'll see. If you're careful you can straighten it out and it will work again. Edit - actually I just remembered that I bought a new piece of wire at the hardware store and bent the ends to make a new control wire. The straightened wire worked but it wasn't smooth when the fixed bent part entered the sheath. Still had a small kink in it.

Look at the right front fender rust. Two white Z's...

Never mind, he said it in the ad. No titles. The "70" has a 5 speed. I have two Z’s one 1970 five speed and 1973 auto. They are no longer viable restoration s. Lots of good parts. Let me know what you want. Will entertain offers for both. No titles. Would be open to an outright purchase of both cars. Make me an offer before all the good parts are gone !

I was thinking of the power supply wires from the harness. You can check those with a meter or test light with the engine running. Pretty sure the testing methods are described in the two links that CO provided.

Aren't there "known" strikers out there to compare to? What's on your 12/70 strikers? Just sayin', just curious...

Maybe you'll get lucky and the old one is just bad. Without power though, the new one won't work correctly either. Wasn't really clear in your original post if the AAR itself reached full temperature. People often disconnect the coolant hoses that supply the heating block under the AAR. There's more to the system than just the AAR. Anyway, you'll have an extra if you find out that the problem is in the wiring. p.s. cgsheen gave a good overview of the system but I think that the AAR only gets power when the engine is running. Like the fuel pump. Actually I think power might be branched off of the fuel pump power circuit. Otherwise, the valve would start to close as soon as the key was turned on, but the engine would not be getting warmer. In case you decide to get a meter or test light out and check for power. Won't hurt to disconnect electrical while the engine is running. p.s. 2 - you'll need some skinny picks or small screwdrivers to get the metal clips off of the connector. They are very difficult to remove.

That was a lot of work in a short amount of time. Impressed. Well done. (p.s. go Sounders! ha ha ...) Edit - no offense. I'm just trolling for soccer fans. You might be rooting for the Sounders too... p.s. 2 CONCACAF Champion's League final tonight. USA team v. Mexico team.

Two leaky FPR's. I had several at one time and found that most of them leaked. The sealing surface is metal on metal. Any rust or imperfections will allow it to leak. I tore one apart quite a while ago. The tube on the left is machined flat and seats on the flat surface on the right, with the round marks on it. One other possibility is that it's leaking through the diaphragm in to the intake manifold. Pull the vacuum line and look for fuel.

Can't really blame anyone anymore for not having their details in their signature. The Editing process makes no sense at all. You have to go to Account Settings, then find Signature way over on the left in a long column of things. Signature is not a Setting. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

Decoding and extrapolating, it looks like you want the side aka "half", shaft parts. "Drive" shaft in Nissan FSM terms. I'd get them from Terrapin, they'll be correct factory made parts. ZCD might not know exactly what they're selling. Z Car Depot does a surprisingly poor job of describing some of their parts, for being a specialty Z car store. It's not a place to go to learn the terminology. Easy to see how 26th-Z could get side-tracked. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=yoke&type=product

Funny, but I just noticed that 26th-Z actually described and showed the same part that you said you needed. The DRIVE shaft is the half shaft. The main one down the middle is called a propeller shaft. Not clear what your picture is of. Is it from one of the two on the sides or the one down the middle?

Not sure what you mean. You might want to start another thread specifically about your issue. It might get lost here if other people start posting about their day.

Looks like it wasn't seated properly and worked its way loose, or vice-versa. Flip it over and look at the mating surface. It might be beat up. I think TerrapinZ might have some yokes. @Terrapin Z