Zed Head

I have vague memories of the wiring diagram colors not matching the car, in past threads. I think it ended up as just one of those things that is, reason unknown. The wait for voltage spikes is on now...

I'd be willing to trust 77Z's vision. W/R = White with red stripe, etc. The only secret is that L = blue.

I think the colors shown in the FSM are the body harness colors. If anything was switched it would be there.

Since it's so easy to swap them, one thing you might do is to check the connections in the plugs carefully and make sure that they are fully seated. Spray some contact cleaner, make sure the plug is fully inserted. All signs say that it should work.

I think that he might be using the gauge in the dash, which is not very accurate.

Actually, it looks like just the plug changed, but the wires and orientation are the same. You might reconnect it and give it a few sharp raps with a plastic screw driver handle. It is mechanical and it's been sitting a long time. Or take the cover off (should be easier than the Unipoint) and check the points for corrosion. 1974 1977

Actually the mechanical VR's can charge up in to the 15 volt range. It's shown in the FSM. Might be that the external solid state VR's do also. I have memories of different wiring schemes for VR's over the years. Did you compare the wires at the plugs between the two VR's? Not clear that the one you got is correct for your year. 77Z, your post is a little confusing because you didn't say exactly which one gave 16 and which one gave 13. Sounds like you're saying that old one, that spiked, shows 16 on the meter, and the new one with the charge light on shows 13.

There is a substantial difference in length between short tower (240Z) rear shocks and tall tower (280Z) rear shocks. A short strut in the tall tower tube would let the gland nut crank all the way down and the insert clank around in the tube because it would be hanging free. That would be an early insert in a late model tube. You can tell early versus late by the height of the rear shock towers inside the car. 36001 is short and 36003 is tall. You would not be able to fit the nut on a 36003 in a short tower strut tube, it would stick out of the tube too far. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,suspension,strut,7584 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502600&cc=1209226&pt=7584&jsn=702 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502428&cc=1209170&pt=7584&jsn=652 Look at the wheel well bump compared to the strut tower. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-222/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-119/

"Electronic ignition" is what you mean by "electric points". The points are already electric. What type will you be installing? there are many. Interesting that people suggested 1, 2, 3, 4 and you said okay my plan is 3, 2, 4, 5. Nothing wrong with doing your own thing, just interesting. Good luck.

By 1976, maybe sooner, Nissan recommended this as the very first thing to do.

I notice that there does not seem to be a separate Engine Tuneup chapter in the 70 and 71 FSM's available on the site. Not sure why. I would download the 72 FSM, it has a full Engine Tuneup chapter. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

That's a pretty low amplitude bump. A tar strip? I would look at the unexpected. The spare tire, any loose parts in the spare tire well, parts in the tool bins behind the seats, the muffler and exhaust system, the gas tank,etc. And the diff mounts through the mustache bar, they have been known to be loose even though the nuts are tight. And the front diff mount. Even the bumper could be bouncing on loose bolts.

It allows the schemers/scammers to tell you things without the larger audience able to call them out if what they say is untrue. They can persuade and con in private. Just like a salesperson trying to corner you in a showroom. Get you talking and just start working the sale.

Removing the spotlight...

RabbitZ started a thread accusing Eiji of Datsun Spirit of scheming to steal his engine by performing work on it when RabbitZ just wanted him to store it for most of the year until he got his funds in order. Once RabbitZ showed the correspondence the bulk of the thread was spent explaining that Eiji had done nothing wrong and that RabbitZ had assumed things that were unreasonable. There was much back and forth and, I would guess that somebody complained directly to Mike, Mike just deleted the whole thing. The lesson learned is that complex personal subjects should not be discussed on the forum.

You're kind of making my point. RabbitZ can go out and do the same thing all over the internet. You can't make people learn but you can provide them with the material to learn if they put the effort in. Anyone who only reads titles probably shouldn't be working with Datsun Spirit anyway.

The other ZMEFLY thread is educational in that it shows that just because you hide what happens over here doesn't mean it stops happening elsewhere. The focus of the previous thread here was educating RabbitZ about how things are done in the automotive hobby world and about how Datsun Spirit was not a crook. Anybody who had questions about RabbitZ or about Eiji/Datsun Spirit could have read the thread and learned the truth. Now the truth has been buried. RabbitZ will probably continue on various other internet discussions to vent his frustration at Eiji and sully his reputation. Anyone reading or hearing the stories might do more searching and would have found the truth here on classiczcars.com. Not now. Burying the thread doesn't really help anyone. It just hides an uncomfortable situation.

A simple courtesy message seems easy enough to do. The blanket deletion seems heavy-handed. A bit authoritarian.

Edited - Disappointing. It was a good conversation. But it's Mike's forum at the end of the day. We just hang out here.

This doesn't seem relevant anymore although it is odd that the guy has not been back since he made his 3rd post May 13, 2016. Whoever the guy is.

At the PicknPull in north Washington state. Can't tell if there's an engine in it or not. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN1CZ04SXDX755428

Notice how the guy separated Eiji out, and he is presenting himself as Datsun Spirit. Like Eiji is leaving and new management is coming in. Almost 8 years ago. Things change.

The diff would be worth a look, but it's probably an R180. The wheels look good. I recall similarities in the front struts but it might just be the shock/cartridges. But, the person who takes it will still have to get rid of the body somehow, difficult with no title. They could cut it up, but with today's converter problem there's more eyes on the scrap yards. Might have to bury the remains in the yard.

Do you mean the "baffle plate"?

Thanks for the work and the picture. That would be a replacement then, not original to the car. The early solid state regulators used to fail often and suddenly, based on what I've read on the various forums. The potting compound should not be cracked like that. Rotating machine! https://www.unipoint.com.tw/ https://www.unipoint.com.tw/about.php 1977 Nissan 280Z is still in their database but there are no parts shown for it. https://www.unipoint.com.tw/rm_application_search_list.php#