pbaddock

You can't intercool suck through, as the fuel and air are already mixed by the time they reach the turbo and the intercooler collects fuel in the bottom - dangerous stuff! Theoretically possible to intercool a blow thru setup in the fashion you describe - but I've never seen it done (most blow through carby setups like the one in the earlier photo don't use intercooling.....ie turbo sucks atmospheric air, then go through intercooler, then into carbs/air box in blow through config....). I'd seriously ditch the whole blow through setup from what I've seen....although I've never done it myself.... (far too hard to mix the fuel and air in accurate enough proportions under boost using carbies.....it basically seriously limits the amount of boost you can run, as once the boost gets up high, keeping the fuel up to it under so much pressure gets tricky). In this situation, suck throughs seem to cope better - but then at high boost with suck through you get other issues (ie on SU's the oil gets sucked out of the carbies). It it were me, and I was on a rock bottom budget and wanted to turbo - I'd go the simple suck through. HOWEVER - IMHO (and after some bitter experience) you would be MUCH better off just grabbing a 280zx turbo manifold, and turbo charger, get a 2nd hand after market computer (Wolf3d or something cheap), and start off with a simple ~10psi basic intercooled EFI setup. This is the best longer term path for growth / more power. The 280zx manifold and turbo and injectors and linkages could prob. be obtained in US for (I'm guessing here) ~$300 - $500 US in very good condition....and the computer (might be best to buy new) from $300 - $700 US. Then factor in dyno time, and setup / config - another $500 - $1000. Sounds expensive?? Try rebuilding blown up carbie turbo motors over and over....and each time having the block relieved for bigger valves, o-ring-ing to run the boost, and the cost of forged pistons......hmmm - EFI EFI EFI. If you have serious $$ you could do the really nice engine swaps like Cuong has (I'm jealous Cuong....have you seen Sinisha's RB26DETT Zed - like yours (from Speed Tech. in Mitham) thats nice!). There you go...thats my 10c worth. Cheap power on a zed is obtained with triple webbers / solex's etc - if you can spend the $$ to do the turbo thing (which I'm a huge fan of) - do it right with EFI.....life's just too short!

Here's my old carby turbo zed. http://members.ozemail.com.au/~pbaddock/forsale.html Take the tip - go with EFI!! Carby turbo might sound cheaper, but you'll spend too much time and $$ dealing with detonation, ignition timing issues, oil being sucked out of the carbies. If you must do it, cheapest options are big SU's in a suck through setup with water injection to try to combat detonation. I was getting around 140kws at the wheels - which made the zed run very quick - but I rebuilt it a couple of times due to detonation and other issues.

Ron's reply says it all - if you want your L Series motor to last with high HP outputs, lower the compression below 8:1. 8.8:1 will give you a nice responsive motor with crisp performance at low boost, but steer well clear of high boost with high compressions ratios.....its technically possible to do it - but I wouldn't recommend it at all unless you have a very well tuned, very well configured EFI setup with a computer ready to do all the funky stuff (retarding ignition et al) when sensing detonation.....and at 8.8:1 and over 10psi - you *will* have detonation! I blew my 240z turbo a couple of times before figuring out some of these nasty things....expensive way to learn.