epsark

The mirrors look great!! I tried the MSA California outside mirrors and have been disappointed with them, especially the passenger side. About all I can do there is pretend to see out of it and have it symmetrically match the drivers side. I got my ZG flares from Z Force Productions and have been extremely happy with them. I had to have new quarter panels welded in on both sides due to rust and mostly bad previous repairs/improvements. The PO had flares incorporated into the quarter panels. When I had the new quarters installed I didn't even think about the tire clearance. Sitting empty the tires just cleared. Once weight was added the passenger side for some reason rubbed more than drivers side. Tried rolling fenders a number of times and just couldn't get the clearance. Was very worried about taking the "knife" to her, but the guy I had do the work did an awesome job. He welded the inner tubs to the new edge of the quarters and needed almost no filler at the end. The look is great and I have plenty of clearance, even if I decide to go up in size for tires. Just can't remember off the top of my head what size I'm running now, but I believe I have 16's on. I'm at work and since it is still winter here for sure, haven't looked too closely at her for want of driving and wrenching on her. Haven't convinced the wife to put heat in the garage just yet, but almost there. A mud room area in the garage I plan on putting in this summer I think will do the trick. I need to update pics of my car. Looks a lot different now than the pics I still have up.

I decided that I couldn't do without my Ipod, so looked for what was the best head unit that would work with the Ipod device. What I found was the Alpine IDA-X100. I didn't get the marine version but there is one if you care to get it. The nice this is that it fit in the original opening and the black face and bezel blend right in my '73 240Z. It comes with a dedicated cord with 32 pin end to plug into the Ipod, or you can run another style MP3 via USB. The cord I ran from the back of the head unit into the area where the fuse block is and that is where my Ipod lives, during the warmer months. There is plenty of room for an Ipod Nano, which is what I have, and lots of cable to pull it out and do any adjusting to the Nano itself or just easily unplug it. Here is a link to what mine looks like: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=CXs7aZX0pEQCoM&tbnid=nBOWAxceKDE0PM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.newlaunches.com%2Farchives%2Falpines_idax100_ipod_headunit_in_your_car_tag_and_sync_ipod_or_hdsat_radio.php&ei=oMk-UZD-MIy-2AWOm4GQCw&bvm=bv.43287494,d.b2I&psig=AFQjCNEKuaulsglb_qGy_PwQCIKNDYb5yA&ust=1363155706534471 I have a red interior, so I set my colors to red, or you can leave them the default blue. The head unit also comes in a silver color as well. I think this has been the best way to run an Ipod and everything is nicely tucked out of the way. It also sounds great!

I have a very similar set up on my 240Z, only I have the Holley red pump. 4 year old pump died, so I bought a replacement. That one was dead out of the box. Took me a while to figure that one as I never expected that to be the issue. Next one now has "locked up" twice on me. By that I mean that the pump sounded like it was on, the humming noise (loud) that it usually makes, but no pressure. Took everything apart and thought vapor lock since the issue, no pressure, finally went away. The second time no pressure again, but pump was a little quieter. Checked a few things before deciding to knock on the pump. Once I did that, the pump jumped in volume and pressure was flowing. Just not sure about Holley quality any more is what I am trying to say. Hopefully you have better luck. I am going to try a pump from Airtex, I think that is their name, who makes most OEM pumps for the major manufactures. It is said to be much quieter and more reliable. Time will tell. Good luck with your set up and I hope it takes care of your vapor lock issues!

I used the Black Dragon door seals on my 73 240Z, and they were really bad. I researched a lot of threads and found the ones on the Kia Sportage. I figured they couldn't be any worse than the ones from B D. They fit great and are a breeze to put in, especially compared the the more "original" style. I liked the fit so much, I switched the rear hatch seal with the same Kia ones and like the fit a whole lot better.

I'm not sure either whether you need flares for sure. I am running 225/50R16's and they are about 9 inches wide. I ran into an issue when I had my car painted again. The car had fender flares that had been worked into the body and required what turned out to be some extensive work. We decided to cut out the bad sections and just go with stock rear quarter panels. They came out great, byt every time I went over a big bump or turned right I would end up scraping on the fender lip. We tried rolling the edge a number of times, but that only did so much. So, ended up cutting the metal in the rear and welding the seam to put the fender flares on. I think they came out great! My personal opinion. So, you need to decide if fender flares are a look you like and can live with them if you need to go that route. Sounds to me though with the 10 inch width your going to run into trouble, maybe just not all the time.

So, went ahead and began bleeding again, this time watching the correct resevior. It took about 15 minutes for the whole thing. What a difference it makes knowing which resevior goes to which set of brakes! So, lesson learned: double check what MC set up you have regardless of the year car!

Zed Head, Thanks!! You steered me in the right direction. I went out to the garage and got my Haynes manual to double check what it said as far as what resevior serviced what section. I thought for sure it would vindicate me and say back to the rear and front to the front. It did, as far as 240Z's are concerned. Then I noticied the diagrams and the 260Z looked like mine, since the larger resevior was in the back and the skinny tall one in the front. I thought "no way"! Mine couldn't be set up that way, it's a 240Z after all. The diagram also showed the the 260Z MC has F and R stamped on the side below the reseviors to indicate which was which, presumably for people who don't look at what they have or just assume what should be on their car. Anyway, I went out to the garage again to check which set up I had, and lo and behold I have a 260Z MC complete with F and R stamped on the side. Then looked in the R stamped resevior, and found it empty. Bone dry (figuratively). Wow! Never even thought to check the front (physical) resevior since I was convinced it serviced the front brakes. So now I know why they wouldn't bleed. The whole system for the rear was empty. Now I know I have only lost part of my mind seeing how I didn't think to check the other resevior to see if it was empty. Between what leaked out from the original swap and what my mini vac sucked out, I took all of it out. No wonder ot would only gurgle. Now to fill the resevior back up and start the process again. This time watching the correct resevior and the level.

Okay, I have a very similar problem, just the rear not the front. I decided to do the disc brake conversion for the rear with parts (kit from MSA) that I bought from a memeber on this site. Parts and price were great! The installation went fairly well and straight forward, except for the bleeding. I have read through here and hybridZ (some 30 pages), but no real direction to go with. I have a mini vac that I have used many times, including bleeding the fronts when I replaced the stock calipers because they were shot last year. I started with passenger rear first. No fluid. I then moved to drivers rear. No fuild. I tried this with the mini vac and the buddy system, same result. I have SS lines that are new, and have replaced one of the sections after the split valve (on the drivers side) after it got stripped. This section I believe had been spliced in because there is a female coupler with the line going into the split at the rear. I took the lines apart to try to see if I had any fluid movement. Could hear some gurgling, and a small trickle of fluid. I do mean small. I had my son hold the pedal down until I got the lines back together so I wouldn't lose pressure. Then tried "normal" bleeding again. No fluid. I then remebered to try to bleed the MC, and got plenty of fluid. Then moved to rear again. Eventually I got some fluid from the passenger side, but nothing from the drivers. Again I tried a combination of buddy and mini vac. No fluid on drivers side and gave up trying on passenger again (since I had gotten some fluid), just so I wouldn't be any more frustrated than I am now. I have never had this much trouble with a brake system before. I find it hard to imagine that the porportioning valve would have suddenly gone, since the brakes worked when I pulled into the garage. I also had plenty of fluid leak out of the old lines. I know it can take a while to bleed, but not 4 hours worth of time. The fronts went much much easier. Is there something I am completely missing? I read something about speedbleeders. I saw them a few years back on ebay, but not recently listed. Should be easier to bleed by myself, so they advertised. Tried with the MC cap on and off in case too much pressure/vacuum. Still nothing. Haven't tried bleeding the front because I just don't see what that would do, but maybe I am wrong. The bleeders are also pointed up, so on the correct sides.

Here is how my engine bay is looking so far. I am getting ready to replace the fuel rail and associated fuel lines with Stainless steel and AN fittings. My fuel rail is starting to show signs of wear, and I like the SST look better anyway. Still need to work on the over spray and tidy up/clean the rest of the bay. Slowly getting there.

Glad to hear your sticking around after all. I say ditto to all that's been said before on your decision to stay awhile longer!!

Glad to hear that the rams worked well for you. I just wanted to point out that Z therapy has them as well. I bought mine last fall and haven't had a chance to install them yet, with everything stored (see crammed) in the 3 car garage. Can't wait to be able to get the car out enough to get it ready for the warm weather! Just around the corner now. Glad to hear that my investment shouldn't be a waste either.

Dave, Just got the car off the trailer and into the garage, out of the snow again. Can't believe the whether we are having. I have two weeks before she goes to the painter, so I intend to get into the dash as soon as I can. The more I read about what your system can do, the more intrigued I am. :classic: I am hoping that the wiring is not a total mess under there. As I get into this more, would you rather I PM you or post on this thread so others can see what has been done to my car? The PO also had the car set up on a Crane system, so it has an electronic system. I have seen on another post that someone was having problems with their tach not working on an electronic signal. The car has an Autometer tach now, but I got a rebuilt original style that is supposed to work on the electronic signal if your interested in seeing that as well. I just figure that if I am going to take the dash out, I may as well do all the projects that I have been meaning to.

I plan on doing that as soon as I can. I get the car back tomorrow from the guy doing the fender flares, but then it has to go back to get repainted, again. If there is enough time between the tow then I will look, if not then I'll PM you with results when I get a chance. Hopefully by the end of the month at the latest. Have enough interest to start production?

This looks great to me. The PO had something like this installed in my '73 240Z, but a bit more complicated. I have to have the key in the ignition switch in the run position (nice security), then flip the ignition switch (yes another switch where the ash tray used to be along with the fuel pump switch, fog light switch and acc switch), then you can push the stat button to start the car. All together works as a theft deterrent. The problem is that the push button has gotten flaky on me and so I picked up an S2000 start button to replace it. Just figured on hooking it up that same as the current button, with the addition of a led lead for lighting it up. Yours seems way easier and simpler. Once I get my car back from more body work, I plan on taking out the dash to see what the wiring is like. I have to because the current switch is located where the cigarette lighter used to be. If I can make yours work, then I will be in. If not, then I go with original plan and use what I have. Just wish you lived closer because right now, there is no one I trust locally to do electrical, let alone learn from. Any idea just yet when production may start?

Ah, but the anticipation makes the first actual drive that much sweeter! I can hardly wait for the roads to clear up!