epsark

I Know nomad1968 already posted a link to the thread for the Kia weather strips, but I have included a picture that has the part number on the label. Be warned though; earlier threads indicated that a member in Canada bought either twelve or twelve sets and wiped the inventory out. I contacted Global Kia Parts and mentioned in my conversation about the potential shortage and they checked. Sure enough, they did not have any and were not sure when they would be getting more. The same thread mentioned end of May 2010 more were due from Korea. Global could not confirm this. They checked their dealership inventories, I got the impression they supply all the Kia dealerships, and found only four left if I remember correctly. Three were at the same location and that is where I secured my two. So, long story short. These are supposed to work great; I'll be trying to get these on this week and document the process; and if your interested in getting some, they may or may not be available yet. Good luck!!

Okay, I have to chime in here. I have a 73 240Z and granted I have Corbeau seats, but mine do go that far back. I am 6' 4'', 1.9 m, and get questioned all the time on how I can fit into my car. For me at least, as long as the seat is all the way back, there is plenty of leg room. There is no less than in most cars and the ceiling clearance is about the same way. Looking at the picture you supplied, the retractors look as if they were never intended to have the seats all the way back. I would also question why on a new part there would not be that much tension to pull them back into place as you state. Just because they are new doesn't mean they can't be defective. I have gotten new defective parts before, and it can be very frustrating when you have waited for them to arrive in the first place. Do they both act the same? If so, could be that that is how they were designed. If not, it would be an indication of a potentially bad one. Either way I would inquire to MSA for what could potentially be wrong with them. Good luck! :classic:

I agree, if Bruce offered to help take him up on it. If you are mechanically inclined you can rebuild them, just take your time and don't rush it. If you need help, let me know. yetterben: didn't know you were in Eau Claire. We should meet up some time. I live off Hwy 37 at the edge of town. It would be nice to have a fellow Z enthusiast close by. John: I find that I will be heading into the cities on Tues morning and hopefully will done around noon. Maybe on the way back we could meet? I'll PM you with my details if your interested. Eric

tlorber: Any chance of a picture of the 90° bend you got on yours? I am about to try installing a new set of Kia Sportage seals that I just got, hopefully this coming week. I plan on documenting the whole thing so that others can see what can be accomplished using these. Thanks, Eric

Thanks Mitchell! The link you provided shows a good picture and it shows that it is the SK version. I'll be getting that one and the DVD that Ztherapy offers. Both great buys in my opinion, as I had no good reference material for a dual carb set up in my bug and the unisync was not worth the money or hassle to use.

Travel'n Man, You show a link for the syncrometer from carparts. Is this the BK or SK version? I found the two models listed on ebay for about half the price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carburetor-Synchrometer-Weber-Dellorto-Mikuni-STE-SK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e108ecfbQQitemZ360257744123QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carburetor-Synchrometer-Weber-Dellorto-Mukuni-STE-BK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414f123792QQitemZ280499468178QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories The difference I found for the two is SK is for standard flow and BK is for high flow. I have tried the unisyn when I owned my VW bugs and I thought it sucked. No pun intended. Eric

I'll chime in on this one. Just got my car back from the body shop and my guy gave me a refund for the door seals that I provided him with. The reason: he did a terrible job installing them and he knew it. :stupid: He apologized profusely and explained that he hates door seals and his interior guy just couldn't get to them any time soon. I ordered from Black Dragon and they seemed good. The rear hatch seals work great and no problems installing them. :classic: I did a search through the threads and found some relating how Kia Sportage seals work great. They are a bit longer than required, but best of all they have the metal channel that help hold them in place while the sealant tacks up. I haven't had a chance to try installing them yet, but will later this week. I have had really good luck using Black Dragon and MSA if that means anything. Good luck!

Here is an update for anyone interested. I checked the returne line and nothing was blocked so that was ruled out. Next I took the float bowl lids home and cleaned those and made sure everything moved freely. Installed those again and started it up and at first it was working well, then the engine hiccupped due to it being slightly cool yet and started geysering out the fron carb again. Went ahead and installed a pressure regulator and a new glass filter there in the front. While I was at it I took the float lids off again and decided to adjust the height of the tab that controls the needle valve up so it would close more, on both. BTW, when you have the float parallel to the top of the lid, how do you know the needle is closed? Is it when there is no more upward travel to the needle? Anyway, put it back together and turned just the fuel pump on. No leak. Fired up the engine and purred away. Revved it a number of times, no leak. Checked the pressure and set it so that it doesn't go any higher than 4 PSI. Everything seemed normal, so took it for a quick spin and all is fine! Yeah!! I have my car back!!

Hey it looks great! I need to get mine back and have another buffing done as well. I live in Eau Claire. We should meet up some time as I have a friend that lives in Woodbury and I want to attend one of the local car shows in that area.

With the work I do it is usually feast or famine and tonight seems to be famine. That and I have been thinking of this problem since it cropped up on me and I haven't been able to quit. Guess that's the technician in me. This was one of the things on my lsit to look into. I just didn't realize that the end of the rail was a small metered hole. Sounds like this may be where my problem is. I still plan on adding the regulator as a way of ensuring that I don't get too much pressure down the road. Any idea how big the end of the rail is supposed to be? That way I have an idea of what tools to bring from home instead of everything. May even have the correct things in my tool bag here at work.

JC, I agree with Arne, if it were more local to me as well I would be very tempted. Not sure what the fiance would say, but she is very tolerant of my current 240Z. BTW I went to high school at Gunn Sr High in Palo Alto and grew up in the Bay Area. Eric

Okay, not to hijack this thread, but I have some questions on what is being said. I just got my car back from the shop and it has been running just fine after sitting for 7 months with occasional starts that the shop did. Matter of fact it strated right up the day I picked it up, with the choke on until it warmed up a little. So, the other day I go to leave work and it was in the upper 40's and had dewed everywhere and needed the choke as usual. A co-worker was looking at it with me while it warmed up and he noticed after a bit that there was something leaking. Shut the engine down and opened the hood. Found that gas was leaking. Turned the engine back on and gas was flowing, ie old faithful, out of the pressure relief nozzle ontop of the float bowl lid. Now the car has no mechanical pump, just a Holley red pump and it does have a pressure gauge that almost never varies between 4-5 PSI. Yes I know it should be no more than 3 PSI, but it has been working this way for some time now. Last time I checked the filter, glass see through kind, it looked okay and that was one day before this happened. The pump being electric is on it's own switch and can be turned off and on indepentantly of anything else. So, turned the pump off started the engine and ran the level out in bowl, and then turned back on, same thing once it filled. Tried the knocking on the side of the bowl to see if the needle was stuck open. No good, still same problem. While waiting for my fiance to pick me up, I went back into work and got my tools to take the cover off. Took it off and it appeared the needle was moving freely, but really not tto positive. Put it back together and tried again, still same results. Oh, I should mention that when the co-worker was still there he plugged the relief valve and the problem then went to the rear carb. Oh yeah, these are SU's that are the round top 4 screws on my '73 240Z with K & N filters. He held both closed and of course gas came out of the carbs. So, on the drive home was thinking it over and thought maybe this was imilar to the old bugs I owned and the floats were hollow and with age a small crack formed and finallaly filled with gas holding the float down. Then with the problem following to the rear, the pump may have over come the other float as well. Not perfectly logical, but with a brain used up after a 12 hour shift it allowed me to sleep. When I got up, I decided to call Bruce and see if he might have any ideas. He mentioned that the floats were solid and so not subject to my theory. His idea was "crap" had gotten into the needles and were holding them open. I asked if I should buy the rebuild kit and he said heck no, just try cleaning them and if it didn't work then call back and we would figure what would be needed and get those. A hell of a deal if you ask me. Great service too. So, I got the tops off and took them home and cleaned the needles with carb cleaner and really took a closer look. It seems to me that they are closing just fine and not hanging up anywhere in their travel. I also picked up a new in line filter and an actual pressure regulator to add into the lines. I haven't had a chance to put them back on or install the new parts, but hopefully tomorrow I will. Working 6 12 hour days straight takes a bit of time out of your day. Anyway, I then had a chance to read the forum and here is this thread talking about the float bowls and the floats. Gary, beandip, mentions: "Once the levels have been set properly the level adjustment is rarely ever needed to reset. unless there is a failure of the fuel valve or the float it's self has a leak and fills." This goes againts what Bruce said about the floats being solid and does match a little more to what mine sound like: hollow. It sounds that it would be prudent for me to check the clearance on the floats again to make sure they are set properly. Any other ideas? BTW the car does run while gushing gas, and no I didn't do so for very long for fear of losing the car so shortly after getting it back again. I'm really hoping that maybe the fuel pressure just finally over came the floats and putting the regulator in will solve the problem. If the floats are hollow and do occasionally crack and subsequently can fill with gas, where can new ones be obtained? I don't remember seeing Black Dragon having them and MSA can be so hard to navigate at times, but I'll double check those sites again.

I know just what you mean about doing a short drive and ending up going for a long one. I just got my car back today after spending 7 months in the shop. Man did I ever forget how good it makes me feel to drive it. The electronic fuel pump rattling did not even faze me. I will deal with that tomorrow. It looks great and drives great! Over the last few months reading a lot of these articles, I began to worry just what condition mechanically it would be in when I got it back. It started right up the first time and ran beautifully. I have a small list of things I have been tucking away over the last few months to replace. Not quite as entailed as yours though. Great to hear yours is back up and running!

I'll be watching this thread as well. I just my car back and my body man said he hates weather stripping, especially in my car. He actually refunded me the money I spent on the door seals because he feels he did such a bad job. I know I saw on another thread to use something like Subaru stripping? I ordered my hatch seal from Black Dragon and he didn't have any complaints over that one, just the doors. The hatch looks great! I supplied the sealent that they sold and at least for the hatch it looks good. I'll ask him how he did it if you would like. Not sure that it would help now, but maybe.

Did you by chance get the adapter that Zs-ondabrain (Dave) sells? I just got mine the other day and am waiting to get the car back to be able to install the 280ZX alternator that Dave recommended. It looked pretty straight forward, but since I haven't seen mine for 7 months I'm not positive. I was thinking it would basically be a plug and play type thing. If you haven't got the adapter, you might want to consider it. May make things easier. Thanks about the paint. I can't wait to get the car back and see it finished finally! I will post pics once I get it back. Hopefully before this weekend, the weather is supposed to be great instead of all the cool days, overcast and rainy days we have been having.

I got to see my car for the first time with it's new coat of paint. It still needs the jambs done and the final sand and buff. I'm told that by the end of the week it should be done. I also started it for the first time since I turned it in for restoration work seven months ago. The body guy has been starting it all along, but I just had to hear it again. Can't wait to get it back! Last picture was my attempt to capture the ghost flames that are there. It kind of looks like finger smears in the picture. I'm not sure if anyone else will be able to see them. Then again, that's part of the reason they are ghost ones: added detail that is hiding until the lighting conditions are just right. I like them!

I agree with ZCurves and geezer. Be aware or at the very least suspicious of anyone claiming to be able to fabricate a whole panel from scratch. I also agree that it is very rare to have that much rust above the wheel well that would necessitate the replacement of the whole panel without showing some easily seen sign. I had damage and repair on both quarter panels that required new panels. My body guy and I knew there was something going on with one side more than the other, but when the damage was more than we thought and had talked about, he stopped to show me what was going on. Literally stopped and waited until I could get there to look at it and see what he was explaining to me and just how much we needed to replace. Attached are some shots of my car; the before during and after the quarters were done. Body work does not come cheap, but what he is quoting you seems to be on the very high side to me. Just make sure in addition to a written quote, that he shows you what he is talking about and just what needs to be replaced. If it is rust that is need of being replaced, then it should be rust and not be able to hold together. Surface rust is one thing, rusted through is fairly easy to tell. You can poke holes through it, which is what my dog legs were like, under all the previous bondo and repair work. Good luck.