mr.inline6er

Sounds like a classic heat soak issue to me. No air moving though the engine bay at idle, means all the heat from the headers or manifold is possibly boiling the fuel in the float bowls. A header blanket or better heat shield may solve the issue.

About 50 dollers

There is no exact formula for detirmining compression ration from PSI as the PSI is influenced by so many variables like the condition of the rings and valve seats, altitude, temp. etc. However you can roughly guesstimate it by using CR=(PSI/14.7):1

If you go to all the trouble of lowering the control you could just replace the bushings. It's not very expesive and you will be doing all the work you would have to do anyway. Also, if you don't know what kind of bushings you have you don't know what kind of grease to use, wheel bearing grease, if it is petroleum based, will destroy a polyurethane bushing. You must use a synthetic grease with polyurethane. (White Lithium grease seems to work very well).

Its probably just a bushing dude. Most likely the inner control arm bushings on the rear. They may be old and need replacing, or if they are new polyurethane bushings that aren't lubricated properly then the sqeaking is normal. Another possibility is the outer transverse link bushings which are a real pain to replace. A difference in temperture creating the sqeak would also point towards bushings. I'm pretty sure its not your rear diff mount because that would create a thunk not a creak, and the mustache bar bushings would thunk as well. I assume when you say "body creak" you mean that the chassis is flexing, but I don't believe that is the case either, as your S30 chassis is a true monocoque, that is one peice, not rubber isolated sub frames or anything silly like you find on modern cars. In other words, Don't worry about it, just whenever you get around to it replace the inner control arm bushings and see if it goes away.

Thats kinda lame to take a car and just put BRE paintscheme and new wheels on it. The motor looks bone stock, any BRE would have triple two barrels on it. The interior looks ok but again not what a real BRE would have (Roll cage and no carpet or vinyl most likely . I would be leary buying that car it could have a lot of mechanical issues or rust hidden under that shiny BRE paint!

Yeah DO NOT cut the stock seat mounts unless you put some kind of reicforcement in their place. They are a very important structural part of the monocoque because they connect the inner rockers to the transmission tunnell, and also form an intersection with the frame rail that runs under the floor. If you do cut out the old ones and put new mounts in, make sure they are welded to the inner rocker, transmission tunnel, and the floor itself, do not just drill through the floor.

I had the same problem with my '71. What happens is the aluminum drum and the steel stub axle actually fuse together when they corrode next to each other, and it just takes a ton of force to get it loose. What I had to do was take a gear puller, grind down the teeth to where they would fit in the two holes at opposite ends in the drum, put the pusher rod against the stub axle, and crank at it with a three foot breaker bar. The drum shot back about 5 feet when it finally broke loose, always fun. I then had to take a dremel to the stub axle because it actually tore off some of the aluminum from the drum and was still fused to the stub axle. So what actually happened was I never actually broke the drum loose, but I applied enough force to rip aluminum in two. Give it a shot

That is pretty cool. It's really built like a late model stock car with datsun bodywork, but I see he has retained most of the original chassis except the front clip. I notice he retained the stock struts and spindles as well. I wonder why, with all the frame modifications, he didn't put coilovers and a double wishbone type front suspension on the car? Or at least camber plates where the struts mount. Oh well, guess that car won't see much track time;) Wish I had the time talent and tools to make a sketch on paper become a reality like that.

I'm excited too! Just ordered the $630 dollar treatment from Bruce at Ztherapy yesterday, plus smooth and polish the intake and balance tube. I actually spent the extra money to have the european style balance tube. I've been working on my 240 for over a year now and am very close to being able to drive it. Bruce said about ten days for him to get the stuff ready and another 3 to 5 days for shipping, I can hardly wait. I'll post pics of the Euro balance tube when I get it