racer88

I just saw a new honda civic si coupe with a red so bright my eyes hurt! Could this be the new colour? Sure looks like it. Going to the bodyshop this morning to get a progress report. I am going to try to find a 260 model that I can build and paint as many times as I need to get an idea of what the final colour will look like, not to many real zed's in my part of Ontario to look at Bob

You are correct, I did mean 905. I am looking for a bright red, not necessarily an original colour, just thought if I could combine the two that would be great. I agree that reds and yellows are tricky colours to get just right. It is made even worse to choose by looking on the internet as most camera's and available light can change the look and shade of what you see. I have had a car that was guards red, nice and bright but very deep. i will check out the ferrari red because if anyone can get red right it should be those guys I have been working on the car for a year and a half and have changed my mind on colour about once a month. Every time I see a sharp looking z I think thats it. My wife and kids have a lottery going as to what the final choice will be Green hmmmmmmmmmmm. Bob

Hi I am trying to decide what colour to paint my early 260, red or yellow. If I go yellow I have a colour all picked out. I am looking for opinions as to what original red is brighter 105 or 110. Bob

Shortening the curve requires you to either weld up or use JB weld in the slots in the advance mechanism to limit the amount of movement. Allowing you to run more initial advance for a smoother idle and hopefuly faster off idle response. if you use JB weld make sure you use it in the at rest portion of the slot so that if it falls out or wears away your engine will not go to far advanced. It works great on small block chevs, I am just not sure what the datsun engines like in this regard. Bob

Hi Bruce Yes I did use the Zx distributor. I have not checked or changed the curve in the dist. The advance mechanism has the numbers 9.5 on it. I assume that means 9.5 degrees in the dist. that would equal 19 degress crankshaft. I have left the vacum advance unhooked and set the initial advance at 16 degrees. I have searched many post about the vacum advance debate. I like the way it idles with lots of initial timing, but at this time I am still up in the air about it. Any thoughts on that matter would be great. I have had the dist. totally apart to clean it and the advance mechanism is in perfect working order. P.S. The e12-80 module was non functioning so I am using an MSD GM style module with a built in rev limiter. Bob

Ok I get the hint. I will leave well enough alone. It's that I am bored. The car is at a friends body shop awaiting prep and paint. I have already built and installed tubular control arms front and rear, shortened the struts, installed coil overs, Zx ign, maxi fuses, gm alt. rebuilt the engine. lightened the flywheel ect. Maybe I need a hobby or a mistress . I only mention all the modifications so that you do not think I am a total newbie wandering around in the dark. I spent 20yrs building late model stock cars for myself and customers around the local tracks. Having said that I do appreciate all the advice and opnions. As soon a I figure out how to do it I will post some pics. of my soon to be bright yellow 260 zed Thanks Bob

Yes I know it sounds kind of crazy, but for me the fun in old cars is the constent fooling with them in an attempt to make them perform better. I would be pretty arrogant to think that my first attempt at tuning SU carbs would be the best it could ever be. I know there are many experts on this site that have been down the same road (that's how they became experts). In any form of motorsport, the moment people stop trying to improve, they start to go backwards. I still have my "baseline" to return to, if I screw it up to badly. : ) Bob

Hi Sorry it has taken so long to respond to all the advice about su adjustments. Had a family emerg. that took all time away from the datsun. Since I last posted I borrowed a uni-sync and started the adjustment procedure from the beginning. What a difference that made. The z idles as low as 600 rpm is crisp in the throttle response. Half choke and it starts right up. Now that I have a good base line I am going to start playing with different damper oils and springs. I have a friend with a small machine shop to change the profile of the needles. Thanks again for all the help. This sight is great for pointing newbies in the right direction Bob

Thanks bruce I will get one ordered up this week. I can rebuild rochester 2 barrels and holley 4412's in my sleep but the su's despite their simplicity are a new animal to me. I like the look and the 70's feel of the su's and for a medium performing street zed they should be great Bob

Thanks Arne. That sound much easier. I will give it a try tomorrow Bob

Sorry, forgot to answer your question about needles and nozzles. I did use the ones that came with the carbs. The needles had no markings on them (even under bright light and magnifying glass). P.S. I did set the mixture nuts back up to the proper setting after I was done attempting to set the float

hi Some of the tech articles that I read (datsun z garage) says that if you back out the mixture nut 10 turns that places the top of the nozzle at the 23 mm mark and if you adjust the float until the fuel is level with the top of the nozzle viewed with the piston and needle removed that will be the correct level in the bowl. Do you know of any place in Canada that might sell the Ztherapy dvd as I would be happy to purchase it but shipping across the border is a real pain for a small purchase. Failing that is there a better way to ensure that the fuel level is correct. Thanks again Bob

Hi everyone i have 4 screw round top su's on my 260 with 280 engine. I have read everything i can find on su carbs and how to adjust them. I have rebuilt them,checked to make sure there is no throttle bushing play. Set the float level by backing out the nozzles 10 turns set the needle height by lossening the srew and setting the piston down onto the fully raised nozzle made sure the nozzles return to normal position when choke is released. My problem is if I raise the nozzle with the mixture nut on the front carb all the way up with the engine running it runs smoother. If I do that on the rear carb it starts to run rough. The rear carb likes the nozzle about 1 3/4 turns down on the mixture nut. the front carb likes all the way up. anybody have any ideas about possible thing that could cause this. The cars seems to idle way down to 700rpm rev's nice and crisp but has some popping in the muffler when cold Thanks Bob

Dave Maybe I am color blind and deaf (like my wife seems to think) Thats the problem with looking at colors on the computor, every pic. looks different depending on the light. I checked out the color you are going to paint your 260. What a great color! It shows up as almost the same as your 240. I am going to the detroit auto rama at cobo hall in Feb. with any kuck they will have paint suppliers there that have actual samples of their colors Thanks for taking the time to respond to my question Bob

Hi Zs ondabrain I am not sure if this is the right place for this question but here goes. I am going to be painting my early 260 in the spring. I am painting it orange and absolutly love the color of you car. Would you be willing to tell me the name of this color. There are so many shades of orange it is hard to pick one unless you see it on a car Thanks Bob

I finally got back to the z car wiring. I finished my maxi fuse, gm alt. and zx hei ign. projects. I hooked up the tach without the resistor and compared it to an external snap on tach and dwell meter. The car runs and sounds great and both tachs read the same so I think I will leave the resistor out for now and see how it goes. Thanks everyone for your help Bob

Thanks Ron. I am off to a hockey tournament this week end, so the car will have to wait untill monday. I will let you know how the tach works. All my buddies that I raced stock cars with for over 20 years have street rods or muscle cars so I am the black sheep of the group. Guess I'm gonna have to open some whoop-arse on them this spring when I finally get the Z on the road Bob:laugh:

Yahoo! Thats great! There is so much great tech info on this sight, it is some times overwhelming to find what you are looking for. I will pick one up tonight and give it a try. Thx Jim and Ron Bob

Hi everyone I have a 74 260 and the PO for reasons unknown has removed the resistor in the blue wire that supplies the signal to the tach from the coil. I have searched with no luck for the value of that resistor. Does anyone know what that value might be. I would like to hook up the tach but do not want to fry it, and the chances of finding an original replacement here in southwestern ontario are very slim. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance Bob Morris

Thank Jon for the quick response and good advice. I went to the site you recomended and found lots of articles on the subject Bob

i am planning on replacing the lower rear control arms on my early 74 260 with tubular arms with adjustable bearing rod ends, so as to be able to adjust toe and camber after lowering the car. I will be mostly driving the car on the street. my question is, has any body out there ran the bearing ends on the street and were their any issue's with noise or extra harshness. any help on this matter would be great

Thanks guys for the quick response. Could be bad thou, my wife will be able to hang a larger to do list off of those push pins

I am new to z cars but not to cars. I am new to this forum so if this is in the wrong place let me know. My car is an early 74 260 with a 280 block an e31 heads, cam, large valves and 4screw su's. I bought a beck arnly major rebuild kit for the carbs. It came with two sets of the long mixture needles numbers on them are nwj1 on two and nwj2 on two of them. Does anyone know what those numbers are I cannot find any reference to them an any su sites. They are shorter than the needles that came with the carbs and those have no markings. Any help would be great:)