tanny

Yes, I checked for at least a quarter mile before and after where the wheel came off and 70 to 80 yards each side of the road. Even looked in the trees. The only damage to the Z was a ground off ball joint(didn't scrape the control arm) and a flat spot on the brake rotor. The Z was quite controllable when the wheel fell off at 65 mph on a slow curve. Haven't checked the other lug nuts yet, but do plan on it. Emailed Minilite distributor in US and he said they only used the aluminum lug nuts for a short period in the 70's and does not recommend them.

AAA is a nationwide towing company in the US. Forgot you were from Australia. Victor.

Via AAA.

I need one 14 inch minilite wheel. Also possibly four stock 14 inch wheels and hubcaps for a 73 240 if I can't find a single minilite. Unfortunately one of my front minilites came off at night and when I went back in the morning(at first light) to search for it, it was nowhere to be found. Thanks, Victor.

I've been using mid grade(88 rating) since I've been running my 240 with no knocking. Even mixed in a about 10 gal. of regular(86 octane) with maybe 2 gal. of mid grade with no problem. Maybe I'm too "retarded"(my wife said that's intuitively obvious to the most casual observer)? Definitely not very "advanced". Victor.

I can't remember if I even have a memory. Victor(or is that Tony? Hiram?)

I'm not sure of the exact history, but the 73 240 came with both mechanical and electric pumps. I don't know if the electric was put on by the dealers or if it came from the factory that way. I know plenty of people on this site would know the answer. Victor.

My electric fuel pump(73 240z) runs as soon as the ignition is turned on, but I noticed that the PO rewired it, so I don't know if that's normal.. That's why I installed a fuel pump shutoff switch from a Ford. Victor.

Did you actually get a clip with your door seals? Did you order the 240 seal or the 280 seal? I didn't get a clip with my 240 seal from VB. My doors were very hard to close also, but are getting a little easier to close as time goes on. I did not do any door adjustments. The passenger door still had a water leak where the front of the window frame connects to the door. I glued a spacer into the fold on the seal to make the seal wider in that area, and that stopped the leak. Good luck, Victor.

Man, air raid sirens! I remember those from childhood when we'd dive under the desks at school, hoping that would protect us from a nuclear blast(talk about an ostrich sticking it's head in the sand). Better get your z alarm armed. Might have been someone trying to rip off the neighbor's car. I just recently installed the "immobilizer" on my z and hope I don't have to find out if it works or not. The only problem I can see with the immobilizer is that the thief may do more damage to the car trying to get it started than he might have otherwise. Kind of like putting locking lug nuts on the wheels and then the thief destroys your studs and drums getting the wheels off. Victor.

The problem is, Cuong, most humans take great satisfaction in belonging to a group(religions, sports, countries, ethnic, 240z clubs, etc, etc, etc) and it is human nature to feel that your group is the proper or best group to be a part of, and anyone else's group is squat. Makes life really interesting(patriotism, war, religious strife, gang killings, racism, sports, car model elitism, blah, blah, blah). What fun would we have if there wasn't all this friendly competition between groups? Go Fiat!! Go Yugo!! Go Lucas electrics(well, maybe not). Victor.

I just had my 240 painted at MAACO and did a little of the prep work myself. Cost was $600 for urethane paint and $100 of that was for repair of crease in hatch metal. No clear coat. The paint job was not very satisfactory, with plenty of orange peel on all vertical surfaces. What little paint chip repair they did was really poor. The repair looked worse than the paint chip. The top, hood, and hatch came out fine. You definitely get what you pay for. However, The car looks much better than before and the job was adequate for what I wanted. If I did it over again, I would have done 100% of the prep work myself before I took it in to be painted. Victor.

When I looked into my tank, I'm pretty sure the baffle has some clearance underneath it so the gasoline will be baffled but can still move to either side of the baffle. Victor.

Run some 12 volt power to the pump directly and see if it works. If it does, then you get to trace the bad connection. Victor.

Ebay is definitely hit or miss on everything. Plenty of outright lying. I won a glove box door with "good" hinges and received one with two hinges totally broken and the last hinge only half attached. Even sent him pictures of how it arrived. Asked the guy for refund but got threatening email calling me an a**hole(he was trying to intimidate me into not giving him a negative feedback). After I gave him the negative feedback, he retaliated with a negative feedback on me. Now I strictly stick to sellers who have long histories and very high positive feedback percentage. Unfortunately, if you're looking for rare items, you often have no choice. Victor.

Thanks for the info. I did install the heat shield(made mine out of 24 gage sheet metal: probably would have been easier to use the aluminum like you did) and the gas line insulation, but that didn't solve the problem. So yesterday I hooked the gas return line back up and I will see if that has any effect. If not, I'm afraid I'll have to admit I was wrong and start searching for electrical problems. Just doesn't point to electrical, but no other choice. Victor.

This brings to mind a question I've had: How do you differentiate between tranny noise and differential noise? I have a very low volume grating noise(worn bearings noise?) when power is applied in any gear. There is no noise when I let off the gas or coast. Thanks, Victor.

I just found a cause for the leak into my floor pan on both sides of the car. When I applied water to the outside of the door, water was getting by the roll up window seal(the flap that clips to the door and presses against the glass at the bottom of the window), dribbling onto the mechanisms inside the door, and making its way down the inside of the door metal underneath the vinyl interior door panel, and then dribbled on down to the floor pan. Apparently someone had taken off the plastic liner between the vinyl door panel and the metal door. I cut up some heavy plastic sheeting and sealed off the access holes in the door and that stopped the leak. Victor.

I was almost certain that the seals on my car had not been replaced since it was used for only 9 years before it was stored. The "clip" I am refering to is integrated with the rubber and comes up over the headliner vinyl( for about 5/16 inch) on the inside of the body flange it attaches to. The metal clip is covered with plastic or vinyl with a roughened or crosshatch pattern. Seems a bit complex to be aftermarket, but I guess it's possible. The VB version has no clip, just a thin rubber flap that comes up the inside of the flange for about 3/16 inch, and looks fairly crappy because it doesn't cover the flange completely and of course supplies no support for the headliner vinyl like the original. Looks really unfinished. I also noticed that the 280 has two different door seal listings in the VB and MSA catalogs. The expensive one for the 74-6/75 and a cheaper one for the 7/75-78. Do you happen to know which specific one works? I'll ask the vendors but I'd rather get some advice from people who have actually put these seals on. Thanks, Victor.

I just installed a driver side main door seal on my 240 that I purchased from VB. It had no metal clip incorporated into it like my original seal. The door is quite hard to close now and it's not sealing worth a damn. It is definitely installed correctly, but is totally unacceptable. I think I remember reading about other people having similar problems. Does anyone know where to order a seal that is the same as the original and that works? If so, do you have a part number? Thanks, Victor

I'm currently in the process of replacing the main door seals. I could see the water where it dribbled down the right and left hand ends of the dash beginning up on the door rubber. Good luck and it would be good to know where your leak originates for future reference. Victor. ps If you have a 240 and should happen to order new door seals, try to get the door seals with the incorporated clip. I got the cheaper one without the clip and I don't think it's going to hold up as well and I had to reglue the headliner vinyl where it fit under the old cip so that it wouldn't hang loose after I installed the new clipless seals.

Unfortunately I am not knowledgeable at all about turbo setups, but I know there has to be people on this site who are, so keep asking your questions. I have no idea if you need the return line for that turbo set up or not, but puting the electric pump on is probably a good idea no matter what. Sorry I'm not more helpful on this subject, Victor.

Better yet, lock a cigar smoker inside the z with 10 boxes of smuggled Cuban cigars, have him light up, then either look for smoke leaking out of any suspect areas or just sniff around all the seals and if you smell something like cat s--t, you know you've found the leak. Victor.

Apparently Datsun installed the electric pump on the 73's for some type of fuel supply problem. Not sure what. I have a 73 and it has both pumps. On my last long trip having both pumps was fortunate because my mechanical pump malfunctioned and the electric kept me going. Victor.

The box fan would just circulate the air inside the car and would not increase the interior pressure. However, you could stick the blower end of a shop vac through the window and seal it and that would definitely blow air out of any leaky areas. Victor.