tanny

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to ask: Is there a way to wire the stock electric antenna on my 73 240 to the antenna wire( the switching wire from the radio, not the antenna reception feed wire) from the radio so that the antenna will raise and lower automatically when you turn the radio on and off? Or is the only option to wire it to the stock momentary switch? The instructions that came with this Alpine are the most incomplete I've ever seen. They obviously want you to have a pro install it. Thanks, Victor.

Just bought an Alpine CD player and am installing it in the 240. Only putting in two speakers in the back(no fronts) and was wondering how to wire the speakers: do you combine the wires for the front and rear speakers or do you just ignore the front speaker wires. The manual has no instructions regarding a two speaker system. Thanks, Victor.

Australia could have their own TV series with these guys similar to the Dukes of Hazzard and call it something like Bogan's Heroes. Victor.

I'm sure there would be some real fighting at the BLM to see who would be on the posse to hunt these brazen hussies down and make the world safe again. Usually the big wigs get these critical missions. Would they cite them or ex-cite them? Victor.

Man you're brave using the word "old" anywhere near the word "wife". Quickest way to get cut off, both figuratively and literally. 58 years "young". What is a hoon? Victor.

Absolutely right. Worst thing for anything mechanical is lack of use. If there is any access to those radio switches and rheostats, static can often be eliminated by spraying with contact cleaner. Victor.

Yeah, I wonder how the Z would perform on some hydrogen? Might prevent people from squealing at me for removing my smog stuff. Victor.

Hopefully the bumping isn't the same problem I had a couple months ago when I replaced my cartridges. The cartridge retainer bung at the top of the strut would not screw down far enough to contact the top of the cartridge, allowing the cartridge to bounce freely up and down inside the strut. If it was bumping before the cartridge was replaced, then that probably isn't the problem. Victor.

The Predator wondering where the plug wire holders are. Victor.

Thanks for the optimism. I also forgot to mention that the new(two months old) mechanical fuel pump started sounding like a trash can lid symphony, but I was able to make it the rest of the way to Denver(because it's a 73 and the electric pump continued functioning). Actually I did enjoy the trip and fortunately didn't have to call AAA once. For some reason I can't explain, because I never plan that well, I had brought along a fairly complete bunch of tools. I take heart from the fact that if I had been in any of my more modern cars, I would have gone over my tow limit with AAA and been out mucho green. Victor.

Well, I just arrived back home from the first long cruise(350 miles each way. Purpose was to get the Z painted) with the Z since rebuilding it, and the trip proved interesting(euphemism). First thing on the way up to Denver, I was stopped by a cop for no front license plate(Didn't even realize it was required. Guess that's why they sent me two plates. Duhhh.). A little farther on, I stopped to get gas and found that my fuel inlet fittings on the triple webers had come loose(the dirt roads I live on wreak havoc with anything not welded) and were leaking a substantial amount of gas onto the header. Almost turned the Z into a ricer with the flaming exhaust. Then while in Denver, on the way to the paint shop(and late of course), the Z dropped dead on a freeway on ramp. Fortunately it was only the wire to the points had popped loose. On the way home, I stopped for a burrito and noticed a high pitched squeaking(not gas from the burrito) from the right front. The alternator was only held on by the adjusting bolt and was starting to twist, making the belt squeak. Apparently one of the bolts on the base support had fallen off, and the remaining bolt had snapped from the excess torque that was then applied. Hitch hiking to the local parts store allowed me to attach the base of the alternator and get home. Now I get to use the easy-out and and repair the snapped off bolt. Other than that, my trip was no problem. These old cars make for a great driving experience. Vaguely reminiscent of the descriptions I've read of traveling in the Model T. Maybe I better get some practice and start driving my sister's Model T. Victor.

Hate to look at the negative side, but hopefully you didn't run very long with the temp pegged. Any problems noticed from the overheating? I don't have any idea how resistant these z engines are to damage from over heating. Victor.

All right!! A butt man. Shake that booty. Victor.

I've always done mine hot, but after seeing the variation on the z, I think I'll try the cold method. Victor.

Yeah, that seems like the way to go to get them even, but I know I've read somewhere that adjusting them while hot simulates actual running conditions better. But in the end it may just be nitpicking. Victor.

I have read that adjusting the valves too tight will increase the likelihood of burning them because they are held open longer than they should be. Not sure where too tight begins, other than what Carl said. The one thing I haven't quite figured out is if I adjust the valves hot, once I finish the last valve and go back to double check the clearances again, some of the first valves I adjusted are too tight. This happens every time. I'm assuming as I adjust the valves, the engine is cooling and when I go back, the clearance has tightened. But this would mean that the only way to get all the valve clearances perfectly identical, I would have to rewarm the engine for each valve. Or I have to get much quicker with my adjusting procedure. What's the easy solution? Don't double check the clearances(the ostrich tecnique)? . Victor.

Should be able to get to the crank bolt with socket wrench and turn by hand. I am able to access mine this way, but I don't have any smog or extra belts. Can't remember the size. 22mm? Might remove spark plugs first and put in neutral to make it a little easier. Victor.

The nuts are definitely 14mm and 17mm. Both nuts loosen counterclockwise. Loosen the 17mm first. If the metric feels way too loose, see if an SAE wrench will fit any tighter. Can't understand why the new metrics wouldn't fit right though. Victor.

My clock looks good set to a perpetual 9:00. Morning is my favorite time anyway, so when I get in the z it's always morning. My son will be installing a stereo anyway, so he'll be able to get the time from that flashing neon display. Victor.