tanny

Yeah, sounds like I might as well put the oil in just to keep the mojo working. As someone said in the beginning, can't hurt. Just a little messy when you replace the cartridges, which with my dottering old man driving habits shouldn't be necessary for another 100 years or so. Thanks, Victor.

Mushupork5, One of my favorite dishes. I'm assuming in the pic the top wire is ground and the wire at bottom is positive? What range of resistor values can you use on 12V LEDs before they will have problems either glowing at all or burning up(imagine it might depend on amperage of LED). I'm also assuming you can use a variable resistor( ie: console light dimmer switch or other) to vary the brightness. Alot of assuming here. Thanks, Victor.

kmack is right. The only disadvantage of leaving the electric inline is that it is one more filter to clog that is in an inconvenient place to service. But it is an extra filter, which isn't bad. Victor.

Good luck from a septic tank! Victor.

I was just trying to amuse myself at 1:00 or 2:00 in the morning. I was Insomnia Man last night, and the family wasn't available to abuse(or to abuse me), so I had to make smart as- remarks on the internet for entertainment. I am not a high performance driver, and my son,who turns 16 shortly, better not be(good luck!), so I could never justify to to my wench buying a performance shock. Not that I EVER have to justify ANYTHING to her! Well, not much of anything. Thanks for the advice BTW, and as I noted, I did add oil to the struts. I put what I thought was just a little oil in and had to force out about 9/10 of what I put in. Thanks, Victor.

That's what I was thinking, but the instructions were written so oddly that I wanted to be sure. Thanks, Victor.

One problem I had on ebay several times was so called "new" items that are not used but are definitely too old to be useful(new/old caliper rebuild kit whose ancient piston seal caused it to jam and destroyed my piston, new in box gas shocks that were so old they'd lost most of their pressurization, "new" printer cartridge that was three years past expiration date and dry as a bone. It's best not to bid on anything that has a limited shelf life. Many sellers have an interesting idea of what "new" means. Ebay is definitely a mixed bag. And as previous post said, try to stick with sellers who have a good positive to negative feedback ratio and who have sold quite a few items. History means alot on Ebay. Victor.

Hey, stop ripping on my poor little cheapies. Can't believe it! Pulled the old strut cartridge out of right rear, put in the new one, with oil, got everything put back together, tire on, and lowering the jack. Then noticed the large nut that threads into the top of the strut tube(cartridge retainer) lying right next to me on the floor. I meant to do that. I needed more practice. I don't call myself pea brain for nothing. Where's that dam- dog?!! :stupid:

The wooden pencil is a great idea, especially if you have the soft valve seats. Adds "lead" to the fuel. Victor.

I have a 73 and run my triple webers on just the electric pump. Took the mechanical off so I don't have any idea if it would run the flat top SUs on just the mechanical. The mechanical alone was apparently good enough for the round tops. I sure couldn't afford the new stock pump. I think the aftermarket electrics(non fuel injection low pressure type) go for something like $60-$80 bucks. Good luck, Victor.

Thanks a heck of alot. I pm'd you. Victor:classic:

The instructions for the KYB strut cartridge boots mention something about whether to put the plastic cinch clamp on the bottom of the boot or not(something about if the piston rod rotates with a bearing do clamp the boot with the tie, blah blah). I don't really understand the logic of their instructions. So, to make it simple, do you use the plastic cinch clamp on the base of all four boots of a 240z or what? Thanks, Victor.

Oh man, what a drag. I guess that's what makes owning the Z interesting. When you own an old car you never know what's going to happen next, but at least you can fix it yourself. Lucky to have that spare. Good luck, Victor.

Yeah, I am suffering from the very thing I rail against, OCD(obsessive/compulsive disorder). The crappy little devil that tells you you'd better do it RIGHT or you'll REGRET it some day 10,000 years in the future. I do like the Ouija board reference. I don't know if I'd ask Johnny though, he was way more of a risk taker than me and look where he is. Let's see, he had a ton of money, all the women loved him and his hokey songs, was able to play with lots of toys. Maybe I'd better contact him. Unfortunately, most times it takes forever to get an answer to an email to a corp. unless you're going to buy something, so I'm not going to wait for an answer from KYB. I will post what they say though if I do get an answer. I'll just have to make this life changing decision on my own. To oil, or not to oil? Thanks for the opinions and unfortunately I can see the logic on both sides of this one. Victor.

Even though the 72 has a different air cleaner, that sounds like what I was thinking had to be there, but unfortunately I would bet a fitting like that would be hard to come by in the hardware store. I'd better try to get to some junkyards. Thanks, Victor.

Now you've gone and put doubts in my pea brain. I think I'll send a question to KYB Corp. support.

I've been looking at this 1973 flat top air cleaner(I am running webers but the flat top setup came as spare parts with the car) and there are 3 wing bolts that hold down the top of the air cleaner. The center bolt screws into the base housing, but the two outside bolts don't have anything to screw into and don't even reach the base housing. Since I have never seen this air cleaner attached, what are the two outside wing bolts supposed to screw into? Thanks, Victor.

Thanks guys. I'll stick some in. Victor.

I've researched this site but could find no consensus on adding oil to the strut housing when you put in new strut cartridges. Any opinions or facts? If oil is added, what weight and how much? KYB instructions just said to empty the oil out of the strut. Thanks, Victor.

If you need to order the speedo gear(19 tooth) for the 3.90 the Part No. is: 32703-78103. I just ordered one from Courtesy Nissan for around $20 inc. shipping. Victor.

Supposedly the triple webers are a nice performing setup if you accompany them with headers and cam. Pointless to use these carbs without other performance tweaks. Some people say they get good mileage with these, others don't. I haven't been able to calculate mileage because I have a 3.90 rear end and haven't changed the speedometer gear yet. It can be tough to get the jetting right(Maybe you could get lucky and find someone who has a big variety of jets you could borrow), although they are a fairly simple carb. They are fairly expensive also. That's the extent of my experience. Haven't used other carbs or FI. Victor.

Yeah, that's what I thought the reason might be, but with the other paths for the air to travel around the radiator(the round holes to the sides) it didn't seem like a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap at the top would be significant. But then I can't imagine Datsun would have gone to that effort for nothing. Maybe. I think I have too much time on my hands. Victor.

I've been looking for that info also. I've taken all the smog off my boat anchors but I left the EGR on because I'm not sure what will be the result of having a permanently open EGR opening on the intake manifold would be. I doubt I will have used these carbs soon enough to tell you how it worked out. I currently have triple webers but have had continual bogging problems with them which aparently can't be resolved at my altitude(6500 ft) unless I put in a cam, which I really don't want to do and can't really afford. So I'm rebuilding these boat anchors in the hope that the endangered flat top advocates are right(got the kits quite cheaply a while ago on Ebay). Really like the looks of the webers and their higher rpm(>3000) performance, but the bogging is a REAL hassle and dangerous in intersections. If these flat tops don't work out I may have to break down and buy the round tops. I hope you get some useful responses to this thread. Victor. ps If you get rid of the air, I might be interested in that if it's in working condition, you have all the parts inside and out, and if I can find out if it will mount with my webers and headers. I haven't seen a 240 with air so I'm unsure of compressor positioning.

Nah. Stands for "X"humed.

You're right Nigel, I only noticed mine a.couple weeks ago. Not very observant. Thought about painting the bare metal(my obsessive side), but fortunately my laid back side said: "Why paint it when the wiping action of the seal will continue to keep rust from forming as long as I keep opening and closing the hood", which apparently won't be a problem judging from the frequency of repair on these Zs. Just kidding. Victor. ps Have wondered what purpose that seal serves. With all the other openings around the front of the engine compartment, what is it sealing? Some obscure aerodynamic trick?