tanny

Yeah, it seems like it would be pretty hard to hide the 12 inchers. I'm thinking more like 8 inchers max. Think I'll look through the gallery as advised and see if someone had a brainstorm that worked. Victor.

If a pin is broken while removing the emblem, I guess it's no problem because on the inaccessible ones you can't put a retainer back on anyway. The pins would serve only as alignment aids. What about not removing the emblems? Is the paint job compromised, or will masking do the job adequately? I know for continuity of the paint surface, removing the emblems would be the ideal choice. Thanks, Victor.

Hadn't really thought about the pump being inadequate, although the stumbling occurs at fairly low demand time. Don't really have to stomp it to get the stumble, just try to lightly accelerate while turning. I guess if the pump isn't shooting gas into the bowl fast enough to compensate for the change in level of the fuel surface, that might cause problems. I might as well try changing the float level first, and if that doesn't have any effect, try a different pump. Thanks, Victor.

Is there a good way to remove the emblems from the Z without breaking the tabs, or would getting the car painted without removing the emblems be advisable to avoid breaking them? Thanks, Victor.

I have triple webers and when accelerating through a turn either left or right( such as a turn at an intersection) with some speed(doesn't take much), the engine starts cutting out(definitely feels like lack of fuel) and returns to normal after the turn. Could this be caused by fuel level being too low in bowl? What else is possible? Thanks, Victor.

Does someone also have any ideas or pictures on placement of single or double subwoofers(behind seats, on the deck, etc.) that keeps maximum space on the deck? Not trying to steal the thread, but the added info would help. Thanks, Victor.

mperdue, Yeah, I used them on the rear and they are working great. The ride is so much more enjoyable and I'm not grading the dirt roads around my place with the underside of the car. Thanks again for those springs. Victor.

Put the two new right front stock springs on the front and the used stock springs on the back, and am Very happy with the results. Camber back to normal and the ride is much less jarring. My kidneys thank me. Sorry to the performance dudes, but the old calcium sticks(bones) couldn't handle the the stiff lowered springs. Thanks, Victor.

When I was buying a stereo for my daughter's Escort, I checked out the "free" installations and they really were quite exhorbitant. All were over $100. Did it myself. Victor.

Just work really slowly and methodically, eyeballing clearances as you go. No quick or jerky moves Keep your extremities out of the way in case it does drop. A helper is really nice. Victor.

Just don't bail out on the forum. The more Aussie presence, the better. Victor.

Woh! 1969 revisited. Flashback! Adrenalines pumpin, think I'll go work out.

Yeah, sounds like I might as well put the oil in just to keep the mojo working. As someone said in the beginning, can't hurt. Just a little messy when you replace the cartridges, which with my dottering old man driving habits shouldn't be necessary for another 100 years or so. Thanks, Victor.

Mushupork5, One of my favorite dishes. I'm assuming in the pic the top wire is ground and the wire at bottom is positive? What range of resistor values can you use on 12V LEDs before they will have problems either glowing at all or burning up(imagine it might depend on amperage of LED). I'm also assuming you can use a variable resistor( ie: console light dimmer switch or other) to vary the brightness. Alot of assuming here. Thanks, Victor.

kmack is right. The only disadvantage of leaving the electric inline is that it is one more filter to clog that is in an inconvenient place to service. But it is an extra filter, which isn't bad. Victor.

Good luck from a septic tank! Victor.

I was just trying to amuse myself at 1:00 or 2:00 in the morning. I was Insomnia Man last night, and the family wasn't available to abuse(or to abuse me), so I had to make smart as- remarks on the internet for entertainment. I am not a high performance driver, and my son,who turns 16 shortly, better not be(good luck!), so I could never justify to to my wench buying a performance shock. Not that I EVER have to justify ANYTHING to her! Well, not much of anything. Thanks for the advice BTW, and as I noted, I did add oil to the struts. I put what I thought was just a little oil in and had to force out about 9/10 of what I put in. Thanks, Victor.

That's what I was thinking, but the instructions were written so oddly that I wanted to be sure. Thanks, Victor.

One problem I had on ebay several times was so called "new" items that are not used but are definitely too old to be useful(new/old caliper rebuild kit whose ancient piston seal caused it to jam and destroyed my piston, new in box gas shocks that were so old they'd lost most of their pressurization, "new" printer cartridge that was three years past expiration date and dry as a bone. It's best not to bid on anything that has a limited shelf life. Many sellers have an interesting idea of what "new" means. Ebay is definitely a mixed bag. And as previous post said, try to stick with sellers who have a good positive to negative feedback ratio and who have sold quite a few items. History means alot on Ebay. Victor.

Hey, stop ripping on my poor little cheapies. Can't believe it! Pulled the old strut cartridge out of right rear, put in the new one, with oil, got everything put back together, tire on, and lowering the jack. Then noticed the large nut that threads into the top of the strut tube(cartridge retainer) lying right next to me on the floor. I meant to do that. I needed more practice. I don't call myself pea brain for nothing. Where's that dam- dog?!! :stupid:

The wooden pencil is a great idea, especially if you have the soft valve seats. Adds "lead" to the fuel. Victor.

I have a 73 and run my triple webers on just the electric pump. Took the mechanical off so I don't have any idea if it would run the flat top SUs on just the mechanical. The mechanical alone was apparently good enough for the round tops. I sure couldn't afford the new stock pump. I think the aftermarket electrics(non fuel injection low pressure type) go for something like $60-$80 bucks. Good luck, Victor.

Thanks a heck of alot. I pm'd you. Victor:classic:

The instructions for the KYB strut cartridge boots mention something about whether to put the plastic cinch clamp on the bottom of the boot or not(something about if the piston rod rotates with a bearing do clamp the boot with the tie, blah blah). I don't really understand the logic of their instructions. So, to make it simple, do you use the plastic cinch clamp on the base of all four boots of a 240z or what? Thanks, Victor.

Oh man, what a drag. I guess that's what makes owning the Z interesting. When you own an old car you never know what's going to happen next, but at least you can fix it yourself. Lucky to have that spare. Good luck, Victor.