tanny

240z, That's fine if you already know where the break is, otherwise you might have to paint the whole grid if you do it randomly, and trying to paint a decent looking straight, thin line(even with the tape or the cardboard template method) with the metallic paint was tough for my mediocre skills. Actually it looked kind of crappy also because the paint was clearly a different color than the original grid. Being fairly anal here. If you really want to be a pea brain, go out and buy one of those little 12 volt space heaters(supposed to warm up the car: not a remote chance here in Colorado, as you would know) in the hope that it will defrost your window(I wouldn't have ever been that stupid). Well anyway, good luck. After all this babble, I would think that whether the defroster grid works well or not would have a large influence on the hatch value. I know I would not want a hatch that had no heat. You can probably get an idea of used prices from ebay, as they are sold there fairly often.

Same thing just happened to me. Wife towed me back home 7 miles on dirt roads with a 15 foot tow rope. THAT was exciting! Turned out my tank has plenty of varnish from sitting for 20 years and the varnish clogged my electric pump filter. I imagine it will happen a few more times at least, so I carry my tools and spare filter. Good luck. Victor.

Click on graphic to view larger image. Fig 18 - Testing Rear Window Grid with a DMM Run the engine at idle and set the rear window grid switch to "ON". Connect the black lead from your DMM to one of the vertical "bus bars" and the red lead to the other bus bar. With the meter set to measure DC volts, the display should indicate 10 to 14 volts; a lower reading indicates a loose ground wire. With the black lead of the DMM grounded, touch each grid wire at its midpoint with the red lead. A reading of approximately 6 volts identifies a grid with no opens. A reading of 0 volts indicates the current path is broken between the midpoint and the battery side of the grid. A reading of 12 volts indicates that the circuit is open between the midpoint of the grid line and ground. You can attach a piece of aluminum foil to the black lead and run the foil over the grid line with your finger instead of scratching it with the probe. As you run from bus to middle of grid line the voltage drops as above. This did work on my z and escort. However, when I repaired the grid lines with the metallic paint, those grid lines worked, but not as well as the undamaged lines. Good luck.

I can't remember exactly, but I had the instructions for testing the strips and you actually test the voltage(not resistance) across each individual strip, with the voltage decresing as you move across the strip. Hopefully someone here has the exact instructions. If not, I'll try to find them. Victor.

I'll try to remember to submit the results of my speedometer pinion switch. Since I had no idea what the rear end ratio was, I had to figure from that calculator using rpms, mph, etc. Hope I was right or I wasted 20 bucks. Another question: I tried taking the old speedo gear out of the transmission when I was rebuilding the engine, but it wouldn't budge after I took the retainer off. Any similar experiences or suggestions on removal would be appreciated. Thanks, Victor.

There was no special piece on the inside of the body with my bumper. Just the washer.

On my 73 all there was was a large metal washer on the inside of the body. I would use a lock washer just for insurance. It can't hurt. I just took my bumpers off a few weeks ago. Victor. ps Where did you get the rubber caps for the mounting plates? Mine were pretty well rotted off.

Alan, The Japanese part no.(32703-78103(S30) was the correct no., and I was able to look it up on the Courtesy Nissan site and find it immediately. I then called them to order, and it was no problem. Thanks alot for the research. Victor. Michael, Thanks for the offer, but Iwas able to order it as above.

For some reason I never saw your reply. I always check off email notification but this time I may not have. I was also disappointed that nobody had answered. I'd better just check my questions manually and not depend on the email notification. Thanks alot for the responses. I will check with Courtesy Nissan again and see if this will solve the problem. Thanks again, Victor.

Thanks for responding everyone. I have already found a set of used ones. Victor.

Good luck, man. I hope your docs and nurses are skillful and kind and your family supportive. Victor.

That bluish gray color is a survival adaptation the fuzz has evolved since man began wearing clothes. It helps it hide more effectively in the shadows of it's favorite dark environments(belly buttons, pockets, between layers of underpants material, etc.

Posted this before but got no answer. I tried to order a 19 tooth (white) speedometer gear from Courtesy Nissan but the parts guy seemed confused by my description and we couldn't come up with a part. Does anyone have a part No. for this item? Is this listed under the five speed or four speed? Will the gear from later model Zs fit the 240? Thanks, Victor.

Oh yeah!! I have to warm up just to get out of bed in the morning. That guy is ambitious. He should get some beautiful pictures.

You may not get oil to the cam by just cranking the engine. You may have to actually fire it up before it will get oil to the cam. After rebuilding my engine, I cranked and cranked and cranked and cranked, recharged the new battery, removed and reprimed the new oil pump, refilled the oil filter, even tried pumping oil through the oil pressure sender hole, and cranked and cranked and cranked and cranked and no oil at the sprayer bar. By this point I'm wondering if my bearing lube is gone and I'm grinding all my new bearings to dust. So I took the chance and fired it up, and immediately painted the engine bay and fenders with oil. Moral(s): don't wait around too long for oil to show up at the cam while cranking, and put the valve cover back on before you fire it up. Good luck, Victor. ps My 240 had sat for 20 years and I am definitely having problems with "varnish" in the tank clogging up the electric fuel pump filter(maybe you don't have the electric pump). The "varnish" is appearing as a very fine powder(almost paste) that shuts off fuel flow after a period of time. We'll see how many times I clean the filter before breaking down and sealing the tank. Just a warning on possible future problem unless your tank's a good one.

I have a Cannon manifold and triple DCOE 40's. Came with the car, so I have no idea what it would be worth. I usually only see them on ebay with carbs attached. About all I can say is that it seems to work, although I still am having trouble getting the weber's to accelerate properly at my 6500 foot altitude. Victor.

I am attempting to order a 19 tooth(white) speedometer gear from Courtesy Nissan, but the parts guy(and myself) seemed a bit confused, so I need to know : would this part be listed under a different transmission than mine(I have a stock 4 speed but the rear end is a 3.9)? Will the gear for a 5 speed fit the 4 speed? What years? Anyone have a part No. for this speedo gear? Thanks, Victor.

mperdue, I will need all four springs. How much do you want for them? Thanks, Victor. tanny@frontier.net

You could be right about the sag springs. If I could find some oldies cheap enough(don't really want to pay much for worn out springs. The old springs might make the car list to one side or the other if they didn't all sag at the same rate), I might test that theory.

I guess if the engine idles well with rags in the throats, the distributor drive must be installed correctly. Don't know anything about SUs but if you have to stick a rag over the throat at idle, which I believe would be richening the mixture(on webers at least), then this would indicate a too lean idle mixture. That's the limit of my lack of expertise on SUs. Someone here should be able to figure this out.

Color of smoke? Possibly stuck oil rings? Valve seals? Good luck.

Just yesterday I had a simmilar situation suddenly develop when I was 50 miles from home. Quickly became worse until I couldn't shift. I had to adjust(made stroke longer and/or deeper. No nasty comments.) the threaded rod from the clutch pedal to master cylinder. The locknut had come loose and the rod shortened its stroke, so the clutch wasn't completely disengaging. You've probably already checked this. Good luck.

Makes good weed killer. If there are no large chunks and it isn't 30 years old, could be used in old mower. Guess it's best to take it to the hazardous waste place.

Even though I reassembled the distributor EXACTLY as described in the manuals(I think the tang was supposed to be at 11:25 or something), it ran exactly as you described. I had to advance the drive gear one tooth and it ran perfectly. When correct, the tang looked like it was in the 10:20 position. Guess it's a matter of interpretation and my thick glasses. To see if yours is set right, disconnect the coil wire and have someone turn the engine over while you're checking the timing with a timing light. Even at these low rpms, you will be able to tell if you are too advanced or retarded, and if off, pop the oil pump and readjust the drive gear. Hope it's this simple. Good luck.

Need a complete set of stock coil springs for a 73 240. Thanks, Victor. tanny@frontier.net