tanny

Yeah, I am suffering from the very thing I rail against, OCD(obsessive/compulsive disorder). The crappy little devil that tells you you'd better do it RIGHT or you'll REGRET it some day 10,000 years in the future. I do like the Ouija board reference. I don't know if I'd ask Johnny though, he was way more of a risk taker than me and look where he is. Let's see, he had a ton of money, all the women loved him and his hokey songs, was able to play with lots of toys. Maybe I'd better contact him. Unfortunately, most times it takes forever to get an answer to an email to a corp. unless you're going to buy something, so I'm not going to wait for an answer from KYB. I will post what they say though if I do get an answer. I'll just have to make this life changing decision on my own. To oil, or not to oil? Thanks for the opinions and unfortunately I can see the logic on both sides of this one. Victor.

Even though the 72 has a different air cleaner, that sounds like what I was thinking had to be there, but unfortunately I would bet a fitting like that would be hard to come by in the hardware store. I'd better try to get to some junkyards. Thanks, Victor.

Now you've gone and put doubts in my pea brain. I think I'll send a question to KYB Corp. support.

I've been looking at this 1973 flat top air cleaner(I am running webers but the flat top setup came as spare parts with the car) and there are 3 wing bolts that hold down the top of the air cleaner. The center bolt screws into the base housing, but the two outside bolts don't have anything to screw into and don't even reach the base housing. Since I have never seen this air cleaner attached, what are the two outside wing bolts supposed to screw into? Thanks, Victor.

Thanks guys. I'll stick some in. Victor.

I've researched this site but could find no consensus on adding oil to the strut housing when you put in new strut cartridges. Any opinions or facts? If oil is added, what weight and how much? KYB instructions just said to empty the oil out of the strut. Thanks, Victor.

If you need to order the speedo gear(19 tooth) for the 3.90 the Part No. is: 32703-78103. I just ordered one from Courtesy Nissan for around $20 inc. shipping. Victor.

Supposedly the triple webers are a nice performing setup if you accompany them with headers and cam. Pointless to use these carbs without other performance tweaks. Some people say they get good mileage with these, others don't. I haven't been able to calculate mileage because I have a 3.90 rear end and haven't changed the speedometer gear yet. It can be tough to get the jetting right(Maybe you could get lucky and find someone who has a big variety of jets you could borrow), although they are a fairly simple carb. They are fairly expensive also. That's the extent of my experience. Haven't used other carbs or FI. Victor.

Yeah, that's what I thought the reason might be, but with the other paths for the air to travel around the radiator(the round holes to the sides) it didn't seem like a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap at the top would be significant. But then I can't imagine Datsun would have gone to that effort for nothing. Maybe. I think I have too much time on my hands. Victor.

I've been looking for that info also. I've taken all the smog off my boat anchors but I left the EGR on because I'm not sure what will be the result of having a permanently open EGR opening on the intake manifold would be. I doubt I will have used these carbs soon enough to tell you how it worked out. I currently have triple webers but have had continual bogging problems with them which aparently can't be resolved at my altitude(6500 ft) unless I put in a cam, which I really don't want to do and can't really afford. So I'm rebuilding these boat anchors in the hope that the endangered flat top advocates are right(got the kits quite cheaply a while ago on Ebay). Really like the looks of the webers and their higher rpm(>3000) performance, but the bogging is a REAL hassle and dangerous in intersections. If these flat tops don't work out I may have to break down and buy the round tops. I hope you get some useful responses to this thread. Victor. ps If you get rid of the air, I might be interested in that if it's in working condition, you have all the parts inside and out, and if I can find out if it will mount with my webers and headers. I haven't seen a 240 with air so I'm unsure of compressor positioning.

Nah. Stands for "X"humed.

You're right Nigel, I only noticed mine a.couple weeks ago. Not very observant. Thought about painting the bare metal(my obsessive side), but fortunately my laid back side said: "Why paint it when the wiping action of the seal will continue to keep rust from forming as long as I keep opening and closing the hood", which apparently won't be a problem judging from the frequency of repair on these Zs. Just kidding. Victor. ps Have wondered what purpose that seal serves. With all the other openings around the front of the engine compartment, what is it sealing? Some obscure aerodynamic trick?

Ewe cad!

Yeah, he really has me fearin' Albany now. Paranoia runs deep.

That's what she said.

Bounce test: pushing down hard and letting up suddenly on one corner of the car to see if the shock will keep the car from bouncing(rebounding) more than once. If the car reacts like a car with two hot teenagers on lovers lane, then you could have bad shocks. However, I never had a whole lot of confidence in this test. Wouldn't depend on it. Victor.

First thing I would do is fix the bleeder cause you need to bleed the brakes anyway to eliminate that possibility. Just to be clear, I am assuming the car(240z?) only pulls when you apply the hydraulic brakes and there are no suspension problems. If true, the brake shoe or pad on the side opposite the direction it's pulling is not contacting the drum or rotor with as much force as the opposite pads and shoes. So, there could be air in the lines, severely worn pads or shoes(hear any metal on metal?), adjuster not working on one of rear brakes, debris in brake line, crimped brake line, bad wheel cylinder or caliper, grease or brake fluid on pad or shoe, lots of possibilities. One way to check which wheel would be to jack the car up and see if you can turn the wheel by hand while someone applies the brakes. This may not work if the brakes are still applying enough pressure to the bad wheel to keep you from turning it manually, but not enough to keep the car from pulling. Sounds like your theory on the air in the lines is a good possibility(because of the double pump), so I'd follow your plan and fix that bleeder and bleed the brakes. Then if it still pulls, take drums off and visually inspect rear brakes, then take front tires off and visually check. Often something obvious will be staring you in the face. I'm sure other people on this site will be giving you plenty of other suggestions, so your problem should be resolved shortly. Good luck.

Yes, I do need to get a machinists rule. Maybe Sears or the local auto parts might have them. Thanks, Victor.

You probably already know this method, but if you don't have a pilot bushing puller, pack the hole full of grease, find a bolt, rod, or socket that fits fairly tightly inside the pilot bushing, drive it into the grease filled hole and the pressurized grease will push the bushing out from the back side. Works really well. Victor.

I only have to pass about three cars on my way to town, so I guess I can keep on flipping at will with impunity. But then these country folk are ALL armed, and they probably know me(which greatly increases my odds of being shot), sooooo, maybe not. Victor.

Despite your test of the shocks, it still could be bad shocks. Bounce would be exagerated, causing loss of traction. Victor.

That's what I thought. Then my de-smoging at least shouldn't affect the accellerator pump. I hope. I'm not sure what I'll use to measure. I'll have to solve that when I get to it. Thanks, Victor. ps For some reason, these carbs didn't have the individual choke dashpots that they show in the kit manuals. The slotted lever is there on the choke shaft, but nothing connected to it. One less thing to remove.

No, the accellerator pump is what I was interested in because you said it was vacuum operated. I was wondering if I removed the smog stuff this would affect the operation of the accellerator pump in some way by altering it's vacuum supply. I have pulled everything off the manifold(except the egr valve which should stay closed with no vacuum supply) and carbs except the basic carburetor. Obviously I will have to plug some of the vacuum ports and egr openings. The rebuild kits came with the rubber for the accel. pump, gas inlet valve, and various gaskets, but didn't come with any measuring device(cardboard scale or whatever). I did take off the vacuum servo that hooked up to the accellerator linkage. Will be an interesting experiment trying to get these to run if my triple webers fail to improve. Thanks, Victor.

I thought that to chrome something it had to be metal so that you could apply an electric current to it to pull the nickel and/or chrome ions out of suspension and deposit them on the metal. I imagine a foil or metallic paint of some type could be applied to fiberglass to simulate chrome. Who knows what they're able to do nowadays. Victor

By taking out all the plugs, the engine will turn faster giving quicker read, easier on starter. Not absolutely necessary, but getting engine to operating temp is. Must adjust valve clearances before doing the test. Victor.