tanny

Even though I can be a flaming a_s liberal on some subjects, I can't really say I "hate" Bush. I don't agree with most of the stuff he and his party put forth, but how can you hate a boozer and a partier(partyer?). I just wish he had inherited his mother's brains. Actually seems like a decent guy if you can get past his Edsel(lemon eater) facial expression. They seem like a normal American family with the youngsters partying up just like the parents used to. Besides, they're Texans, and I've always kind of liked Texans(Texas elk hunters pretty much pay for the Colorado Div. of Wildlife, so I owe the Texans for my livelihood).

I would like to use the stock springs, but using springs off someones 30 year old car would probably end up giving me a similar problem due to old age sag(unfortunately I am familiar with that), although it probably wouldn't be as severe. Arizona Z Car supposedly has stock height springs, but the spring rates seem pretty high and I don't want the rough ride. As my dad used to say, I'm caught between the $^!# and the fart. Maybe I will advertisefor the used springs in the Wanted area and give them a try. Kind of a lot of work if they don't work out, but I need to figure something out. Thanks you guys for the advice.

I think Ford got a bit of a bum rap for being clumsy. I remember my dad talking to him about him being an All American football player at some meeting they had. He must have had some kind of athletic skill. Maybe.

My 240 has lowered springs and I either want to be able to correct the camber or if I can't, replace the springs with ones closer to stock height. I have no idea how much these springs lowered the car(were installed 25 years ago), but the car is quite low and the tires look knock kneed, noticeably in at top and out at bottom. Obviously they are going to wear very quickly. So, what would be the best and/or least expensive camber solution? Also, the MSA catalog says that their standard KYB strut cartridge will not work with lowered springs. Why not? Does this mean that you must buy the performance type shocks even with minimal lowering(1" or less)? On an unrelated issue, is it necessary to remove the gas tank to remove the sending unit or can it be removed in place? I think the tank mounting strap is close and may interfere with removal. Thanks, Victor.

My experience: Bought a 1973 240 (had been stored inside for last 20 years and had 100,000 miles on it after 9 years of use)18 months ago without a clue about Zs other than I liked them since driving my girlfriend's Z in 1972. Due to blind luck, it had very little rust, but all hydraulics had to be replaced, rebuilt the engine, new tires, and hundreds of odds and ends repaired. Lucky for me this sight exists. Lots of knowledge here. Have invested $2500 already doing all my own repairs and still need a paint job, new strut cartridges and springs, reupholster seats, and new carpet. Granted, the car will be close to new, but this may give some idea of the expense of refurbishing the Z, especially one that has sat for too long. Not knowledgeable enough to give you much mechanical advice on the 77. Good luck. Victor.

Looks fine. Did you buy it from MSA or VB? Thanks, Victor.

My thick glasses didn't work too well this time. I saw orange and assumed it was "A". I'd better order one. Thanks.

Really too bad. I'll bet you wanted to get started messing with the house too. If you're married or have a significant other, you may be able to totally play it up so you can have all your wishes granted out of sympathy. At least you have me beaten, I can only type with one finger. Get well.

I thought aboot meant about in Canadian.

My gas tank is leaking around the sending unit. I see MSA and VB don't carry it. Is it possible to find a fuel resistant o-ring of that size? Has anyone tried, and if so, did you find one, and where? Thanks, Victor.

No, I really did mean dash mat, the cloth covering, not the plastic dash cap. Just wondering if there is any difference in quality between the ones you order from the local auto parts place and the ones in MSA and VB. Last time I bought a Dashmat for a Ford Escort at the local auto parts, I thought the quality was quite poor, with some of the edges unbound and ill fitting. Thanks for the response though.

Is there anything special about the dash mats sold in MSA and VB catalogs or is the local DASHMAT/auto parts dealer just as good quality(maybe the same manufacturer anyway?)

Did you say MacArthur?

I know there are certain greases that can be applied to light bulbs that will prevent oxidation. I would think that they would work on fuses also.

Yes, I'll try readjusting the valves. Haven't adjusted since I rebuilt the engine(350 miles) so they could be needing an adjustment anyway. There is definitely no problem with power at low rpms once it gets over its initial stumble. However, a new wrinkle, wife had to tow me home yesterday due to very little to no gas getting to the carbs. Today will check fuel pressure, pressure regulator, fuel filter, and lines(it was the fuel pump filter. Clogged with a pinkish colored very fine powder almost like talc, so I drained the tank and cleaned the filter). I doubt that fuel supply was my original problem with stumble, since it worked really well at high rpms. As for the flat tops, I'm undecided. I think I'll take one or both apart before I decide and get a better feel for their condition. Looking on the bright side, their is no paucity of used parts at really low prices because no one wants to mess with them. That's probably a hint. Would be nice to get a mild cam and rockers, but really isn't a guarantee to solve the problem, even though it does sound logical. So that would be another $500 more or less which would be tough(read impossible) to afford right now. So I have to try the least expensive alternatives and work my way up. As for the headers heating up the carbs, I imagine the only real solution to that would be a header blanket or tape? Thanks for all the input, everybody.

I have about 2 miles of dirt roads to navigate to my house, so I am interested in as soft a spring as will work. Not really interested in going around corners exceedingly fast, more interested in saving my kidneys, which are already having problems without being hammered by these high rate springs the car has. Dirt roads aren't friendly to a car with 4" ground clearance either. The camber on the rear is so bad the car looks knock kneed. Even I can tell the tires will wear out too quickly at those angles. Thanks for all the info on these springs. It sounds like that is the way I will be going, since stock springs are pretty much impossible to come by even if I could afford the price on a new set.

Poor Iraq. If we go off after another Muslim country, Iraq will be totally forgotten just like Afganistan. Where is Afganistan anyway? Wasn't that the place that we were going to rebuild to prevent any more terrorism? Oh well, out of sight, out of mind.

Hey Ozzy Guy, get back to "reality"! Besides, has little Herman ever failed you? I bet not. Size only matters in the NFL, or so I console myself. As for Monica, only in the US can the simple act of giving h... make a millionaire out of you. Amazing that we can be entertained for so long by something so common. Well, maybe not amazing.

jeffhop, You're probably right about taking better care with it when you have lot's of your own time into it. Be careful if you get the classic car insurance that you mind the rules religiously. Lots of restrictions, and you know if they can substantiate any wrong doing on your part, they won't pay off. That's why I am getting full coverage from my normal insurance company with no restrictions. Definitely more expensive, but more peace of mind for my paranoid little brain. I will be giving the 240 I am refurbishing to my son when he turns 16 next July. I don't know if that's the smartest move, but you're only that age once and you have to have as much fun as possible(hopefully without killing yourself or frying your brain) while you can. I live in Durango, and I get up to Denver fairly often, maybe I'll see you around. I've been mulling over joining the Colorado z club, but don't know if I'll be able to participate enough to make it worth while. Have a blast. Victor.

Suggest to her that it would be your honeymoon trip.

Of course, everything depends on available money, but you could just buy a 280 engine and modify it however you want. Then pop it in whenever you get the itch to drag and save your 240 to pop in whenever you feel like being original. I know taking the 240 engine out and putting back in is really pretty fast and easy after the first time(one of the easiest cars I've done). Don't have a 280 so I can't vouch for it. Money, money, money and time.

Yes, a really nice poem. The meaning of family is clarified even further when a person finally realizes their own mortality due to terminal disease or old age. You tend to become infinitely more aware of the very limited time you have to soak up the happiness and love of your wife and kids. Fifty years really seems like about five or ten minutes, and time seems to accelerate logarithmically the older you get. Got to pay attention to all the small things, the everyday interaction that is the meat(or tofu for you mushrooms) of family life. What a blast having family!

Although...... I remember reading a study done awhile back stating that red was the best color for attracting attention from cops. I wonder if they factored in the possibility that people who like that red color also might have a predilection for high speeds, thereby biasing the study. Have fun anyway.

The repair was at the right rear corner next to the tailight, two shallow(<1/8in), narrow(1/4-1/2in) 4 inch grooves caused by the right bumper end being pushed against the body from something hitting the right bumper guard. So the bondo does wrap around the rear corner. At least it will be protected by the bumper(unless someone kisses the bumper again). I guess I'll try the fill primer and sealer primer as you described and leave it at that. I know it won't be good as new, especially with my primitive sanding skills, but the bumper should hide most of my Bondo art. The more difficult task ahead will be adjusting the shape of the right rear bumper mounting flange so that the bumper will have the proper clearance from the body. If I could see an undamaged one I could get a better idea of how I need to bend it. Anyway, thanks alot for the advice. Victor.

I have read some of the info stating that using either a self etching or epoxy primer under the Bondo really extends the life of a Bondo patch. Unfortunately I read this AFTER I had done the patch and all the sanding, so there is no primer underneath my Bondo. Is it really worth it to grind the Bondo out and redo? Since I don't have access to a gun, I am forced to use whatever primer comes in a spray can. Any recommendations on brands that will work well under the Bondo? Any tricks or proven methods are appreciated. Thanks, Victor.