tanny

Nice buns. You know winter is too long when a plastic antenna topper looks good.

That is funny, but kind of brutal. Hope any Hispanics on this site don't take it too seriously. I may not want to own a low rider car, but I really do respect the amount of effort and care so many of them put into their cars. Some beautiful paint jobs and some throbbn' sound systems, etc.

Yeah, I live in Colorado and the mountains are a pretty sight, and my house, which is situated in pinion pine and juniper, overlooks a river. Beautiful area, but the cold and snow can get old about this time of year. I guess it makes me appreciate the great days of summer and fall all that much more(at least that's how I console myself during winter). I do miss my old stomping grounds around southern California, where it hardly ever got below 60 F, and cars and women always look clean and beautiful. However, the crowds and smog just became too extreme so I moved to Durango, Colorado. Haven't regretted it. Too much.

I just sanded mine down, stained it(looked like a red mohogany on my original wheel, but I wanted a little darker, less reddish look, so I used a darker stain, but it still came out reddish. Didn't appear that the plastic/wood base material takes stain all that well, or I just didn't sand it well enough), and used a spray can of clear gloss polyurethane spar(UV stabilized) varnish to give it three coats. Looks great, but I haven't used it enough to say whether it will wear well yet. I'm sure the epoxy based clear coat mentioned above would be more resistant to wear.

Despite the disadvantage of being a black hole for nuts and bolts, I still would like to find a splash pan because I live on a couple miles of dirt road, so when it rains the engine compartment becomes a mudpie. At least I now know the car originally had a splash pan. Thanks, Victor.

I asked this question before, but no response. Did the 73 z come with splash pans underneath front of the engine compartment? If so, are they hard to come by?

I am jealous. Looking out the window at snow right now with dreams of Kylie on the beach floating through my pea brain.

Duct tape.

Come on, stop exagerating. You wouldn't have coined the phrase "feral women" unless there were a few dreadnaughts around to abuse your eyes with. Also, your sampling area(the beach) biases your outlook. I used to live at the beach in southern California and the scenery was so good I felt like a blind dog in a meat house.

What is the best way to repair paint chips? Not worried about color matching, car will be painted. Best products to use? Thanks, Victor.

Ozzy, then you must like that fermented garlic juice, I forget its name, found in health food stores. I'm leery of drinking it though because it's supposed to be healthy. Now I remember: Kyolic.

Yeah, the Australians have always backed us up. Must be our similar heritage: the caucasian Americans descended from a bunch of malcontents, including tax evaders and religious extremists(otherwise known as pilgrims), and the Aussies descended from the penal colonies. England was glad to be rid of us. Those dangerous genetics may be one reason these two countries are such risk takers and why we feel like brethren. Hope Americans will remember the loyalty and can return it tenfold someday.

Biker, what is a feral woman? Sounds interesting. Bambikiller, I think it would depend on the quality of the dancing by the "feral women" whether I would want them to be arrested. Might even throw them a buck or two as I pass by if they're entertaining enough. Then again, maybe I better find out what "feral" means first. Slutty, skanky, what? So sorry for being shallow and sexist.

I think you're right about the naval jelly, I think it probably only works on thin surface rust. I used a small grinder and a dremel today and it worked fine on the accessible rust. I may pour some naval jelly into the recesses I can't reach with the tools, then give it the POR 15 treatment. Seems to be plenty of good metal left. Thanks, Victor.

I hope it is the valve stem seals. Way too frustrating to disassemble and pop the pistons again. Does sound like you got the compression rings right. It's amazing how easily the rings can accidentally move out of alignment when applying the ring compressor. Don't know what the exact theory is behind the 12:00 10:00 positioning, but must be important if all the manuals make a stink about it. Hope Murphy's laww isn't working in this case. Good luck.

1 bravo 6, I know that bolt. Messed with it yesterday. I'm a quart low on blood.

Thanks for all the replies, I'll try installing the bumper in one piece because I should then be able to see how to bend the brackets back to where the bumper will line up properly and also because I can't remove the the small bolts that retain the rubber trim(rusted too much to remove without breaking). Another question: is sand blasting the only effective way to get the rust off the inside of the bumper, or will something like naval jelly work on fairly thick rust?

Am posting this again but in different forum. Hoping to figure out if I have the wrong shroud or if I have a different radiator than came with the car. The following are my two posts and one response: 1. Trying to find a radiator shroud for a 1973 240z. I believe I may have been burned on Ebay when I purchased one that said it was for 240z. When I tried to attach it, it would only fit if I forced it against the lower radiator hose enough to partially collapse the hose. The top of the shroud also is too tight against the curved metal flange(guard?) at the top of the radiator. Purchased the car without a shroud, so I don't really know what the proper shroud would look like. There is always the possibility the PO changed the radiator(I wouldn't be able to tell if he did anyway). The shroud from Ebay is two piece, with the bottom piece being significantly smaller than the top piece. The top piece has the four mounting holes. I noticed the shroud came with mounting bolts and nuts attached, but I see that my radiator already has nuts welded on. This is about as good a description of the problem I can give. Any suggestions? 2. All the shrouds are two piece if I remember right, but by the sounds of it, you may have a shroud for a 280. The 280 radiator is a bit larger than the 240 radiator and the shroud is about an inch or so too big, both in height and width. If you line up the mounting holes on one side, and the opposite side is past the holes, then I'd say it's a 280 shroud for sure. The 280 shrouds are a dime a dozen, the 240 shrouds are hard to find.... 3. The holes are exactly the same measurement on the shroud and the radiator. The problem is interference with the lower radiator hose and the curved metal guard at top of radiator. Just will not fit unless I distort the bottom radiator hose and if I cut maybe 1/4 inch off top of shroud where it meets the curved guard. Does this still sound like a 280 shroud or do you think this may not be a 240 radiator? Don't want to buy another incorrect shroud.

Glad you put up this post. I had often thought of doing the same. Guess I'll stick with manual.

Hopefully I can describe the problem well enough to get an answer. The rear bumper on my 73 z has been tweaked a bit, so I removed it. Both brackets(the rear ones, not the side brackets) seem to be bent, but I'm not sure how much. Are undamaged brackets formed with only right angles, or are the bends in the bracket something other than 90 degree bends? Are they supposed to be exactly rectangular in overall shape, or are they more trapezoidal with angled legs(sides)? The reason it's not clear to me is that the bumper when mounted is not that far out of alignment(is shifted slightly to drivers side), both brackets have similar shapes, and I've never seen brackets on an undamaged bumper to compare them to. Also, is silver POR 15 good idea for painting inside the bumper where plenty of rust has accumulated in spots? Thanks, Victor.

The holes are exactly the same measurement on the shroud and the radiator. The problem is interference with the lower radiator hose and the curved metal guard at top of radiator. Just will not fit unless I distort the bottom radiator hose and if I cut maybe 1/4 inch off top of shroud where it meets the curved guard.

Trying to find a radiator shroud for a 1973 240z. I believe I may have been burned on Ebay when I purchased one that said it was for 240z. When I tried to attach it, it would only fit if I forced it against the lower radiator hose enough to partially collapse the hose. The top of the shroud also is too tight against the curved metal flange(guard?) at the top of the radiator. Purchased the car without a shroud, so I don't really know what the proper shroud would look like. There is always the possibility the PO changed the radiator(I wouldn't be able to tell if he did anyway). The shroud from Ebay is two piece, with the bottom piece being significantly smaller than the top piece. The top piece has the four mounting holes. I noticed the shroud came with mounting bolts and nuts attached, but I see that my radiator already has nuts welded on. This is about as good a description of the problem I can give. Any suggestions?

Way too expensive for my daily driver. If I had a show car I might consider it. Think I'll stick with Arizonazcar springs and put up with stiffer ride but stock height. Thanks for the offer.

Probably the ideal thing would be to hopefully find a local expert on your carbs and see what advice you could gleen from him, or if you have the money, take the car to him. Trying to find out the ideal jetting for triples can get quite expensive if you're playing a guessing game. I have triple Webers, live at high altitude(6500 feet) and have a severe bog when quickly opening the throttle from idle. Finally found a local expert on these carbs and he told me what i suspected: I will have to live with the bog unless I replace my stock cam with a higher performance cam. He saved me alot of unnecessary expense. Good luck.

Don't really see how oil could be comeing out of a spark plug. Seems like it would have to be the valve cover gasket. Oil did accumulate around a couple of my plugs once, but it turned out to be from my fuel pump spewing oil out a little breather hole on the pump and the fan blowing the dripping oil back onto the plugs. Other than those possibilities, is it possible for the head to crack into the oil gallery and leak to the plug area? Hopefully that can't happen. Sounds like Rocye and the others have good advice. Good luck.