tanny

Mike, can't you forget that Boobs thread?

Thanks to everyone for the info. I guess I am getting a little ahead of myself here since I still have to start up the engine for the first time. Just finished rebuilding and installing it, and am now replacing all clutch and brake masters and slaves, rebuilding calipers, and replacing pads and shoes, cleaning and testing the electric fuel pump, etc, etc. I really am just finding odds and ends to fix up so that I can put off turning the key and watching my rebuild melt or having to tune the 3 webers for the first time. I always worry that I forgot something during the rebuild that is going to surprise me when I fire it up. Get the jitters every time. Don't even know if the tranny and diff are functional, although the previous owners statements concerning the car have proven quite honest so far. The car hasn't been run since 1982.

Looks like I would need the white speedo gear. Any suggestions on where to find these speedo gears other than rummaging through junk yards. There is unfortunately little(read none. A few 280s) in the way of junk 240s here in Durango. Nearest 240s are in Albuquerque or Denver. That was an easily understandable tech post on drive ratios. Thanks, Victor.

Thanks for the info. I am undecided on which diff to use. Have not driven the car yet(have been rebuilding the engine and hydraulics because it sat for 20 years) so I have no idea how it will perform with the 3.9 diff. It has 3 webers and headers, but no cam that I know of. Has approx 1 inch front sway bar and 3/4 inch rear bar and has been lowered(don't know how much). I would doubt that the previous owner put in a different speedo gear, so will compare speed to another vehicle(so I can get estimate of speedometer error at different speeds. May try to get speedo gear if it's a problem) unless I put the stock diff back in.

Didn't realize 510's came with only 160 diffs. I had assumed it was a 180 because the former owner said no modifications were necessary when he installed it. So I asume the 160 diff can be installed into 240 with no mods then. If I could get at the fill plug to remove it, I could use a plastic tube as I used on filling the tranny, but there isn't any way to access that plug. If I have to remove the diff to fill it, I might just put the stock diff back in. At least he saved the old diff. Thanks. Victor.

I am going to change the oil in my differential(previous owner put in a 510 rear end) so I checked for the filler hole and it is right up against a rear brace with about 1/2 inch of access(so there is no way to get wrench in there). Any suggestions on how to fill this thing other than removing the differential? I only stuck my head under there for a second, so maybe I missed something obvious. It is a 180.

Just had my pistons glass beaded at the shop for $4 a piece and they looked brand new. Glad I didn't hassle with cleaning them myself.

Hadn't thought of that benefit. Sounds good. Thanks again. Victor.

Thanks beandip and kmack. Seems like eliminating the mechanical pump would prevent the possibility of fuel leakage into crankcase and one less part to fail, so I'll probably eliminate it.

Thanks for the response. I did install the old bolts, so we'll see if I need a 280 engine in a little bit. The machinist I used for the rebuild machine work builds race engines and has had good success with Z race engines. He claims it is not a problem reusing the old bolts. Take my chances.

I have a 73 240 with both electric and engine mounted fuel pumps. If I get rid of the mechanical pump, will the electric electric pump supply sufficient fuel to the three webers(dcoe 40) I have? Header is only other engine modification. Thanks.

I was adjusting the valves on on my 73 240 and noticed that the rocker arm pivots have a large variation in their height in relation to the head, causing the angle of the rocker arms to vary significantly with respect to the cam lobes(I assume due to wear). All were adjusted successfully, but a couple of the valves were getting close to the point where I will not be able to adjust them(not enough room for two wrenches) if there is much more wear on pivot and/or rocker arm. The head just received a valve job and all springs replaced. Is it necessary to replace the rocker arm or the pivot or both? Which part usually wears out first(lash pads, cam lobes, and rocker arm wipe surfaces look fine)? Thanks, Victor.

I am rebuilding a 1971 L24 engine and am installing a remanufactured oil pump. The old and the new pumps are identical except the new pump doesn't have the angled oil hole that is on the cylindrical part of the oil pump housing that inserts into the front cover. Instead, the new pump has about a 3/16" hole that goes through the cylindrical housing to the tang area inside the housing where the distributor/oil pump drive shaft meshes with the oil pump(on the old pump, this hole has a metal plug in it). What does the oil hole on the old pump lubricate and will the hole on the side of the new pump accomplish the same thing? I don't want to install this pump if this is critical. Thanks.

I do appreciate the advice, but as I requested, I would like to know someone's actual!, personal!, non-racing experience with reusing these 8mm bolts. Thanks, Victor.

I have a 71 240 engine that I am rebuilding(re-ring) and am not thrilled with investing another $80 for 8mm arp rod bolts. Have not seen any source for the stock bolts. Obviously putting in new rod bolts would be the best choice, but I was wondering if anyone has reused the 8mm rod bolts and if they had good or bad luck with them(not interested in heresay or regurgitated conventional wisdom. Actual non-racing experience only). Thanks, Victor.

Did not realize these were throwaway bolts. Who has these bolts you're talking about? Is there any source for the stock bolts? Thanks, Vic.

Thanks for responding. I was able to get in touch with the guy I bought it from and found out that he did replace the 73 engine with a 71(I don't recall him telling me that at time of purchase, but he may have). So I guess that explains the 8mm bolts. Will never race or really stress out the engine, so I'm not worried about the weaker bolts. At least I now know the torque setting(glad I checked the bolt size instead of just going with the higher torque settings for the 9mm bolts). Thanks again.

I have a 1973 240 and am rebuilding the engine. When I measured the rod bolt threads to determine whether I have 8 or 9 mm bolts, I came up with 8mm. From what I read the 1973 is supposed to have the 9mm bolts(I think). Any ideas as to what happened and should I torque these to the lower value as specified for the 8mm bolts. Are the threads where I am supposed to measure? Thanks, Vic.

You've milked this enough.

I was wondering if there would be any advantage/disadvantage to sealing the drain holes in the floor pan with fiberglass instead of putting the plugs back in? What function do these plugs serve anyway? They obviously are not ever used for drains unless you make an aquarium out of your floor pans. Thanks. ps. Where would be the most reasonable(least expensive) place to buy POR-15?

Thanks alot smg1404, That's an excellent and relatively simple way to do it. I was thinking I would have to put on a much more complicated linkage setup(as usual, my pea brain is always trying to find a way to over-engineer it). A picture of the linkage would be great. Thanks for simplifying this for me. tanny@frontier.net: :stupid:

Thanks for the response. Maybe it will work without the choke, but we do get some pretty cold days here in Colorado, so I think I'll try to make the choke workable. What I really wanted to know is if there is a linkage kit or parts sold somewhere that I could use to connect all three carburetor starting devices together so that I can then hook up the choke cable to one end. The carbs have no choke linkage at present. I know I'll probably have to fabricate something myself, but was hoping someone had some magic to make it easier.

The 1973 240 I bought has triple webers but their chokes(starter devices) are not hooked up. Does anyone have any advice on how to fabricate some linkage for these? I live in a fairly cool climate, so I assume I will need a functional choke. Am rebuilding the engine, so I haven't started the engine yet to see how these carbs perform. Thanks. ps. I don't know how I put this question under k2chronics name. Somehow I must have been logged in under his name. Whatever I did, it was accidental. Sorry.

The previous owner of my 73 240 installed a differential from a 510, but doesn't remember what ratio it was. Can you determine the ratio from the folowing numbers? The numbers on the bottom of the casing are: 213 72 5 T 41 At least he saved the original differential. What would be the ratio on the original(I don't know if it was stock either, because there was another previous owner). The casing numbers are as follows: Top- 209 T24 Bottom- 38311 E4600 209 Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Vic. tanny@frontier.net ps. The 240 tranny is 4 speed manual. Don't know what tranny the 510 had.