tanny

EScanlon, My daughter is looking into going to Western Washington University next fall. Wants to major in Marine Biology. Have you heard anything about it? Opinion? What's the area like? Her and mom may visit the campus the end of March. Is Geocities garage the name of the website where 2manyzs posted his advice? Thanks. Victor.

I read that if you replace the points distributor with a 1975-1983 D2 distributor with a E12-80 module, the 240 tach won't work. Is this true, and are there any work arounds to get the 240 tack to work with this setup? Thanks, Vic.

Was driving on some muddy roads yesterday and noticed that splashes were getting into engine compartment up on the inner fenders, etc. Did 240s come with any metal splash guards underneath the front suspension and engine compartment? Thanks, Victor.

Anyone know of a weber carb specialist in Denver and/or Albuquerque? Thanks, Victor.

Thanks, Victor.

I am not very familiar with 240 body part terminology, so I'll try to describe adequately. There are several open holes on the raised rectangular tubes running longitudinally along the underside of the floor pan. Are these holes(approximately 1/2 inch diameter) supposed to be open(for drainage?) or should they have a plug in them? These are not the larger floor pan holes with the rubber plugs that are on the flat surface of the floor pan. Thanks, Victor.

cr240z Right on!

If using the brakes doesn't work, an electric or air impact wrench would probably work on lug nuts if you have access to one.

Thanks much Alan, Unfortunately there is no history on these carbs. The only info I received from the previous owner was that they had been "adjusted" for this altitude. I am not quite sure why I didn't check the choke size when I was rebuilding and cleaning these carbs. Must have been the carb cleaner fumes. They are a real hassle to get off the manifold because of extremely tight clearance. I would imagine that if the chokes are too large, the air velocity would be too low(especially at low rpm and high altitude-low density air) to create enough vacuum to suck much fuel out. I do have a fuel pressure regulator, but it is on the opposite side of the engine from the carbs. Could move it next to the carbs. I do not have a fuel return line. I capped it off. I will check the fuel pressure today and see if I am in the ballpark. I triple checked the float levels, but not sure how accurate my method was since I used a tape measure, not any kind of float level measuring stick. I couldn't find a size on the emulsion tubes. If nothing else pans out, I think I may order some .55 inlet & discharge valves since there is quite a disparity there. Thanks alot for the detailed analysis. This should at least get me started on dialing these things in. If I am unsuccessful, I will try to find a weber specialist and see what they can do.

I did not check the jet sizes with a gage, but the numbers all match. I bought the car as is. Personally, I wouldn't have put the webers on unless I was going to also add a higher performance cam. Can't afford cam setup, so must try to get these carbs working as well as possible with the present equipment. The engine has only 2 hours running time on rebuild, including head job. Not really broken in yet. Thanks, victor.

The fuel system was not upgraded. I'm running the stock electric fuel pump only. Mechanical pump is disconnected. I will measure fuel pressure. Thanks.

I have a 1971 240 engine with triple Weber dcoe 40-18. Engine has standard cam(I was told) and headers. Upon acceleration from idle, the engine stalls momentarily, then will accelerate if I back off somewhat on the accelerator. If I press pedal all the way down, engine will continue to bog down and accelerate quite slowly. I am at 6500 feet altitude Starter jet = 100 F5 Accelerator pump jet = 45 Int. and discharge valve for accelerator circuit = 35 Main jets = 130 Air correction jets = 185 Idle jet = 45F9 Choke = ? Any suggestions on what is causing the problem or ways to diagnose the problem? Could a colortune be used to determine whether it is running rich or lean when throttle is manipulated? Thanks.

Alan, The carbs were supposedly set up for this altitude and they do seem to run well. I have no idea how they will react to sea level oxygen. I haven't had the car on the road yet, so I don't know how it will run under load. I just finished rebuilding the engine, replaced brake and cluthch master cylinders, clutch slave cylinder, both rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt front brakes, and am now repairing odds and ends(rust hole in floor pan, fuel pump, window sprayer, etc., etc., etc., etc.) on a car that was garaged since 1982. Hopefully I will get it on the road in the next few days. Have fun, Victor.

Alan. A very belated thanks for your reply. I didn't see your reply until now because it wasn't attached to my thread. Plus the fact that my handle is not K2chronic. Don't know how I wrote a thread under his handle. I have tried starting without the choke(starter devices) and it is quite difficult. I live at 6500 feet in Colorado and it gets cold(below zero degrees F). I believe though in the summer I probably wouldn't need the choke and won't be driving it much in the winter anyway.

With three webers, I don't really have a fuel rail, but the rubber fuel line runs directly in front of the valve cover and then runs along the air cleaner side of each carb. If I have a problem next summer, I'll try insulating. Doesn't get that hot here in SW Colorado, but I'm wondering if the headers will heat up the underside of the carbs excessively because there is no heat shield. If that happens, I guess I'll need to fabricate one. Right now I'm anxious to get the brakes bled so I can finally see how this thing drives and to see if there are any unexpected problems from the tranny on back. Hope not. Thanks, Victor.

I tried to use the Unisyn flowmeter on my three Webers(on a stock 240z) and can't get it to register any flow even when I dial the disk all the way down. Is there a problem with getting enough flow to budge the indicator at idle, or is it a defective meter? I tried the meter on a vacuum cleaner. and it required very little suction to move the indicator, but that's no real test. I thought maybe there could be leakage around the air horns, so I took them off but the meter won't fit between the air cleaner studs. Thanks, Victor

Have mercy, Carl! Close to 53 and still rocketing downhill.:dead:

Thanks for the info. Good to know what the line was for. Hopefully not having it plumbed to the Webers won't increase my chances for vapor lock. I think I'll just seal that return line off. I'm not sure if this car ever had any vapor locking problems, but I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Thanks for the info, but I have three webers(forgot to mention), and there are no other fuel lines coming to the carbs. I do see a metal line that parallels the metal fuel pump line and it ends at the front of the passenger side wheel well. It does have about a one foot rubber hose on the end that is open and hanging free. I had assumed this was some sort of an evaporative line for the gas tank(smog stuff). Would this be the line you're talking about and does this just allow some pressure release(gas vapor) or is it supposed to allow the actual liquid gas to recirculate back to the tank when the carb bowls are full? Sorry to sound so stupid, but this z is my first and it was modified more than I would have liked, so there are plenty of doo-dads missing and others left hanging, etc, etc. I guess I can console myself that at least it has almost no rust. Got it started for the first time(first time in twenty-one years) yesterday after I rebuilt it, but it appears that the front two webers idling circuits are not funtioning(or functioning very little), so I have even more work ahead.

I have a 73 240 z and the first time I attempted to start the engine after a rebuild(actually first time ever since I purchased it) I noticed that the electric fuel pump runs continuously when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. Is this normal? Is there no pressure cutoff switch? The pump is pumping gas when I test it and there is no return line to recirculate the gas. Thanks, Victor.

I have never been able to line the clutch disc up so that the tranny will fit before my back gives out(either by clutch alignment tool or eyeball. My eyes are bad and my coordination is suspect). What I do is loosen the pressure plate bolts just enough to barely hold the clutch disc in place, use the alignment tool or eyeball to center the clutch disc as well as possible, then insert the tranny and start wiggling it up and down, back and forth as you described(by having the pressure plate bolts loose, the clutch plate will move and allow the spline shaft to line up with the pilot). Once you have the tranny fully inserted, pull it out as straight as possible, tighten the pressure plate bolts, reinsert the tranny(should go back into the pilot with no or minimal wiggling), and torque the tranny bolts. This method is obviously more work, but it has always worked the first time, every time, for me. Unless you're young, break out the linament. Hopefully you already have it together by the time you read this. Good luck.

Thanks. I haven't looked around yet for the 240 shroud. May have to fabricate something as you suggested.

Will a radiator shroud from a 280z fit a 240 z? I have a 73 240z manual with no AC. Thanks.

I don't think you're understanding the double entendre bud. What has a nice red button on top of it that is a pleasure to push, or do whatever with? Think about the boob reference. Yeh, thats it.