angry_dave

I had a 93 ford bronco that would buck under light acceleration, deceleration because the egr solenoid went out. I replaced this solenoid after it stopped when i unplugged it, and the problem was fixed. just seemed kinda similar. i dont think it is in the drive train, new tranny, diff, ujoints, driveshaft, bushings. not the drive train

You should be able to find a reputable restoration shop that will be able to source parts, and being that the car is so old, it will be considered restoration work anyways. A good hot rod shop that does body work will be able to do the work. You could also get the estimate, get the check from the insurance, and do the work yourself, just have someone repaint it, but if it ends up costing more that way, you are out some cash and hard work, but hey, its fun to work on these cars anyways

Well I am 24, so far i have owned a 75 280z, and most recently a 240z. cars before that included a 88 toyota pickup, 93 bronco, 69 chevy truck. I saw a 280z roll down the street a few years back, and it just looked so beautiful, and then i saw the video of the supercharged lt1 on youtube. I have been hooked since. Other than the z cars, i own a toyota tacoma double cab 4x4, and a mazda six as the grocery getter. parting out the 75, building the 72.

the gentleman said its p 79 flat top pistons, i wanted to raise compression on this engine to about 10:1, i want to see 250 hp at the rear wheels. is this possible with an L 24, or should i just use the L 28 out of the 280. The engine i have now is an L 24. I am just trying to get an idea of what to do, to see the power results i want. 250 hp, but 300 hp would be preferrable. i have also toyed with the idea of the ls1 swap from jags that run. i know it is blasphemy on this site, but i really want power, and dependability. Really i want this car to run mid 12's to low 13's in the quarter.

thanks that helps alot, i had a 1975 280 head, i think it is the n 42, but which head would be the best to use? I have a guy in tennesse willing to trade me p 79 pistons, with rods and pins and rings, with an e88 and n47 head for the turbo z engine i currently have. if the pistons rods, rings and head are in good shape, is this a good deal. thanks for you guys input, really helpful.

So I took your guys' advice, and popped off the valve cover. I found an absolute mess. turns out, four rocker arms, were not on top of the valves, a couple had not even been installed, so I proceeded to start putting them back on top of the valves, per the manual directions. Then I came across a valve that would not compress, move, even budge. A bent valve i am assuming. So the head needs a rebuild, i am positive after this fiasco. But amazingly, non of the rocker arms, springs, or the cam, suffered so much as a scratch. cool huh. So this brings me to a question, will the head off of a 1981 turbo engine work on my 1972 engine. I also have access to the head off of a 1975 z (a p 90 head i believe) engine. what will work, and what will be the difference between using either of these cylinder heads. thanks guy, sorry i had no pics of the carnage that unfolded. my camera is broke

I have a 72 240z and i got it running for the first time today(bought it two days ago) It had been sitting for about 6 months. I hear a knocking noise coming from the engine, I think it could be valves, or possibly, hopefully not, but a rod or main bearing. Maybe after sitting for so long,a hydraulic lifter collapsed. Does this engine have a hydraulic lifter? I am just afraid to run it because of the noise, but i would like to adjust the carbs. Thanks guys.

I have a problem with my reverse lights staying on at all times, when the ignition key is switched on. I am pretty sure it is just the switch that is stuck, but before i get myself under a car, i would like to know what i am looking for, so anyone know or have a picture of the switch they could show me. thanks guys

from my experience, mostily with chevy 350's if the distributor jumps a tooth, it will idle irradically, you can also change the coil, to make the spark a little better, and of course check the points,cap, rotor, but i honestly would be more worried about the jacked up compression numbers. But if it requires full throttle to idle at 1000, it is probably not getting a good enough spark, spark may jump the gap, but may not be hot enough. to weed it out, try dumping a little gas down the carb at w.o.t. and see if the rpm rises. if it does, you are not getting enough fuel. a little dangerous to try, but effective, and anyhow, you sound like a back woods shade tree mech like myself. what branch of service are you in, ive been in the army for 6 1/2 years.

Thanks guys I appreciate the input. I cant wait till friday when I go to see the car. I will definetely be picking your brains in the very near future. Not really experienced with the z cars. This will be my first real build. Its going to take me at least 3 years, but it will be worth it to have that mustang killing performance. Wish me luck. Oh yeah and one more thing, do you guys know of any z car clubs near southeastern Alabama? I could really use the help, and experience of some more experienced builders.

"War is cruelty. There is no use trying to reform it, the crueler it is, the sooner it will be over." William Tecumseh Sherman

He who fishes in another mans well, catches nothing but crabs

that is my all time favorite movie, and favorite scene

The dumbest thing I have ever done, well, I told the pilots the sheppards hook did not have a ground cable attached in a chinook helicopter before doing a sling load of a 155mm cannon. They said try it anyways. While retrieving the sling legs with the sheppards hook, it dawned on me that chinook helicopters make A LOT of static electricity. So when i touched the load with the pole, all of the static electricity that had been stored on the airframe immediately disharged via the stupid newby crew chief. The flash was so bright, the guys standing in the hanger 200 meters away came running because they thought something had failed and we where crashing. I could not move my arm for three days.

the 2200 budget is for the chassis only, the other mods are way down the road. But alas I was the WINNING bidder on ebay, and am going to look at it on friday night. At least it will make a nice road trip. Got it for 1950. Not too shabby. But like z onthebrains said, if the dash and seats are good, the price was worth it. I think it has two of the original hubcaps also. I will try to post some pics of the car for everyone. Sorry about the pics of the wife and kids, accidental, but arent they beautiful. Life is good

But is 2 grand worth it. was looking for one that would save me money in the long run with body work. You can patch and patch again, but in the end, it is a patch. I am not experienced enough to do the full floor pans on both sides. I can weld pretty clean with a mig, but it is forming the metal i dont have experience with, not to mention the required tools. And wifey put a 2200 budget on my broke arse

I was planning on a full rebuild, not to serious about interior, that is a last priority. I can deal with some rust, but if the floors and trunk are falling out of it like my 75, I dont want to touch it. Looking for one that is pretty clean, my first restoration/race prep. I wanted to do the ls1 t 56 swap, with azc brakes, tokico illuminas, 6point roll cage, q-45 diff, basically make it a very competitive autocrosser

was looking at your z, that is a really nice one. mine is way far from that point, i have a 75 280z in the garage, will have some fenders and other misc. parts for sale if i end up buying this new car just let me know what you guys need and i will see if i got it, the engine is a 1981 zx turbo motor. 4 speed trans. try to offset the cost of the new car, make the wifey happy. sure you guys will understand

He is asking about 2000 shouldnt be too bad, but like i said, i havent seen it yet in person. would really like to see it in person. oh well i guess if i decide, its only a couple hundred in gas,

I just wanted some input from other z car fanatics. Ever since I saw a z car with an ls1 I was in love. I am looking at a 1973 240z in running condition, brakes need work(pads most likely) that comes with a uncracked dash, recaro racing seats, extra original engine and trans, and has minimal rust, floors are clean, spare tire area is clean, basically rust free except for doors, and i have a passenger door rust free already. Is pretty much rust free, as far as i can tell from pictures, havent seen the car in person. Its like a 450 mile drive, and will have to be towed back. If you have a response like almost immediately after this post, please call me as time is an issue. 910-308-0934 call anytime, day or night, I dont really sleep