philbar73

The best thing that happen when I switched to the RX7 pump is: the Webers would drip gas after the car was turned off with all the other pumps I tried. That has been greatly reduced with the RX7 pump. With other pumps the fuel pressure would stay up when the car was turned off. When the power goes off on the RX7 pump the fuel pressure falls immediately. Haven't had any problems with fuel supply, but I don't race, just around town use. I have pushed it a little with no problems. No regulator, pressure is good enough. On the other pumps, maybe if the return line was use so the pressure could bleed off it would have the same result but I'm not using the return line at all.

I did a few searches and found :speedometer bounce" could be the cable or the gear. I think its the cable. I had cleaned it out and lubed it with cable lube when I was putting it back together. Cable lube is very thin. The car sat for 25 or so years before I put it back on the road. The bounce post said to use heavy gear oil. I'll give it a try and report back.

At low speed my speedometer jumps. I think its the speedometer cable. Any thoughts?

I have a 73 build date of 6/73

It could be a bad ignition switch. My car was off the road for 24 years. When I put it back on the road the starter would turn in the accessory position. I replace the ignition switch and all was good.

I think there should be a spacer between the fan and water pump. I'm not positive but that would give you a little more clearance if I'm correct. I've worked on a lot of cars so I could be mistaken. You may already have a spacer there.

Post some pics

What do you have to do? I'm on Long island,

I think you need less teeth so it will turn faster

One of my windows was doing the same thing. I put a few washers under the regulator when I mounted it and the problem went away. The broken plastic washers didn't cause a problem in the operation of the window. I had to play around with the location and number of washers but it made it work.

The output (speaker leads) measure .9 ohms. The only thing I can think of is I'm testing a winding on a transformer. If it was a capacitor I would think that I would see the reading changing. It solid at .9 ohms in either direction. The white and black lead is tied to ground, the case of the radio. When I connect the radio to the amp there is no output. If I lift the ground wire and just connect the white lead from the radio it works. I'm an electrical engineer and would like to understand what I'm dealing with. The power amp has a speaker level input but it seams the - input on the power amp will not work when grounded. I put a small audio transformer between the radio and the power amp to isolate the ground and it acts the same. I don't understand what's going on.

The radio works fine. I want to look at the output stage before I hook it up to a power amp so I don't damage it. I think its transform isolated but do not want to make a mistake.

I'm looking for the Schematic for a Hitachi KM-1520ZD radio. Can anyone help?

Now that I have driven the car a few times, I still have a little bit of gas dripping. It is greatly improved.

I had alot of problems with switchs and conectors. I used Deoxit 100 Hosa Caig DeoxIT D100, Deoxidizer Aerosol Spray, 2 oz D100S2 on the switches and conectors and everything works.

Hi Dr 240Z. it looks like the way you set up the chokes is actual a lot less moving parts. one pivot and a few cables. Looks like a nice setup to me. Thanks for the good words. I love to work on my Z and I really enjoy this web site. I have learned a lot from everyones input and hope I have helped one or two people too. Theres alot of old cars here on Long island but not many 240Z's. This site has been great help.

As I suspected, the fuel pressure drops immediately when I turn off the RX7 pump. I guess it’s a centrifugal pump and has no check valve. I remember the old fuel pump and regulator held pressure for a few minutes after the pump was off. I am not using a regulator on the RX7 pump. I disconnected the fuel line at the carburetor fuel rail and put the gauge directly into the fuel line. The pressure went up to 2.5 psi, I had the old fuel system set at 4 psi. I’m not sure if it’s the lower pressure or the quick pressure drop when the power goes off or both but whatever it is, I’m happy the gas dripping has stopped. I also let the pump run for a while with the car off and no gas dripped, it makes me think the lower pressure makes a big difference. I changed the pump because the old pump made a lot of noise. Thanks to everyone that said the RX7 pump worked well and ran quiet. It turned out to be a good thing for me. It is quiet. Maybe if I had lowered the pressure and set up the return line to the gas tank with the old pump so the pressure would drop quickly it would have helped. Maybe you can quickly pull off the gas line as soon as you turn the car off to release the pressure to see if the carbs stop dripping. If it works I would be interested in knowing.

Do your carbs drip when you turn it off or all the time? I had a 15lb pump and a regulator set to 4lb. They ran fine but dripped after i turned off the car. The only thing i can think of is there was presure in the fuel system after the pump was off and the fuel would seap past the flot valves over time causing the drip. I will check to see if the presure drops when the power is off the RX7 pump and report back.

I changed the fuel pump to a low pressure RX7 pump as suggested in many posts on this site. The gas dripping stopped when I turn the car off. I think the old electric fuel pump held pressure in the line when the car is turned off. The new pump must not hold the pressure or something but the dripping stopped.

I set up the chokes in the 80's so the drawings I made of the parts are long gone. I couldn’t tie the stock choke levers directly together with a cable because the cable would interfere with the throttle linkage at full throttle. So, I extended the choke levers on the carbs to get them high enough to clear everything. I tied the 3 chokes together with a stainless rod and made 3 small metal blocks that act as clamps on the rod and also pivot points for the choke lever extensions. To reverse the action of the cable, I tied the outer jacket of the cable to the moving arm with a metal sleeve with a set screw that clamped the cable jacket and acted as the pivot and then attached the center cable to a fixed point on the carb. I hope you can look at the pictures and make sense of what I have written. If anyone is really it interested I will take it apart and take more pictures and make some measurements.

I saw this thread pop up and never posted a picture of the fuel rail instaled on the car.

Thanks everyone. The RT mount and GM mounts are in. All went well; I wish I had a lift. Maybe 3 hours of work. The only tough spot was breaking the 17MM (big bolts) that held the old mount to the Diff. I had to take off a back wheel to pull on the breaker bar. The car was off the ground so no big deal. The rest of the bolts had been out 2 years ago when I cleaned up the body so they came out easy. I haven driven it because I'm having a bung put in the exhaust for an O2 sensor now that the pipe is out of the car. My wife gave me a fuel/air gauge for Christmas. I should have the pipe back tomorrow. I could see a little play in one of the universal joints on the passenger side axle but very little. I'm going to run it and keep an eye on it. I'll let you know if the clunk is gone. Thanks again for all the advise... Hope you have a great day

Thanks again for all the help. I have the mount in hand. Can anyone tell me what two nuts and bolts I will need to bolt the GM mount to the diff so I will have everything ready when I lift the car off the ground. I have a stock R180 rear. I hope to get it done Sunday before the big game.

Thanks Diseazd for the fast response. I'm looking forward to driving with a solid drive train. I've been real easy on it because of the bang in the back. Looks like less them an hour of work the way you explained it. Thank for the info and thanks to everyone that has helped me and all the information on this site. It's on the road for the first time in 28 years. 4 years of weekends to take it apart and put it back together. It was worth it. Feels like when I first got the car 36 years ago. I’m very excited.