philbar73

I'm just finishing a rebuild, restore on my 1973 240Z. I have a big clunk form the rear end when I shift. The drive shaft and axils are solid, very little movement in the universal and axils so I’m sure it’s the differential mount. I ordered an R-T diff mount and the GM transmission mount. It looks like it will be here in the next few days. The question is can I just remove the stock mount and the strap and slip this in or do I have to drop the differential completely to install the new mount. I have been reading everything I can find on the R T mount but cannot tell what the job will be.

I had the same problem; the pressure would be good at the start then drop way off when warm. The sending unit was the original, it was 39 years old. I put in a new sending and the pressure looks good, about 20% of the gauge at idle, a little over half way at 2000 RPM's. If you take off the oil fill cap when its running and you see oil splashing around you probably have pressure. I would agree with the other that suggest changing the sending unit.

I just received a 3 Barb fuel rail for L6 from Japan. I like it, thank you [mailto:yuiko@tatsumi-company.com]. I’m looking for sources for straight Banjo’s and nice fuel lines for the new fuel supply setup. I’m running 3 side draft Webers, 40 DCOE 18’s. All help will be appreciated.

I did some searching but didn't find a solution. The carpets are not held down in any way and slide all over the place. The new floorboards are clean and covered with Dynamat sound proofing. I have replacement carpets from MSA with jute stuck to the back. I need to secure the carpets. I was thinks of putting in an eyelet in the carpet under the front edge of the seats and a hook on the seat mounting rail. I also think a saw a product that you can spray on a material surface to rubberize it. All suggestions will be greatly appreciated. The 73 240 is almost ready to put on the road for the first time in 29 years, I should have insurance in two or three days. I’m very excited.

Put some 8 inch speakers in the back behind the stock Interior panels. They are a tight fit to say the least. I had to remove and bypass the evaporation tank to make room.

Thanks for all the input. Satin black sounds good.

I need to paint the metal trim piece that goes between the dash and the windshield. Is the stock color semi-gloss black?

Thanks GreenZZZ, I'm putting an 8 inch speaker behind the interior panels on each side. Need the room. I don't want to cut holes in the interior so this seemed like a good solution. I will post pictures when I get them in. They will just fit.

Cleaned up the gas tank and removed the evaporation tank Removed evaporation tank cleaned up the Gas tank and put it back together. I used a tank restore kit from Hirstauto: http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ARK-01 . The outside of the take is painted with Hirsch Miracle paint: http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MIR-QUART Cleaned, sanded, etched, rinsed and dried a bunch of times. I found 1 hour with a heat gun set on low stuck in the gas inlet dried it well. Followed all the instruction on the gas tank kit, except: I cleaned the tank with Muriatic acid first to remove the rust (there wasn’t much rust but I fixed it anyway). Use all appropriate safety precisions, this is powerful acid. Then as soon as I finished coating the inside of the tank and pouring out the extra material I put about 2 or 3 PSI on the gas line fitting to make sure the screen on the pickup was clear. I let the air run for about an hour to make sure. It took a few hours each day over 4 days to do the job, I must love my Z. A local shop wanted over $300.00 to boil out the tank, paint the outside and coat the inside and I don’t know what material they would use to do the job. I hope not to look at the gas tank again for many years. I cleaned, scraped, sanded, etched, cleaned again and miracle pained the bottom of the car that was covered by the gas tank too. This was the last aria on the car that had to be cleaned and painted. It’s almost ready to go. Down to putting in some speakers, the plastic panels in the interior and I have to stop the rugs from moving around.

Only my opinion, I am not an expert….Use a lot of PB blaster, liquid wrench or any penetrating oil on any bolt you have to remove. Keep them wet for a day or two in advance if possible. Replace the studs and nuts if possible and use High temperature copper based anti-seize when re-assembling in case you have ever take it apart again. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37616-Copper-Anti-Seize-Stick/dp/B0029SZIUI and http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-stud-extractor-94640.html FYI...I see good thing about KROIL penetrating oil on this web site http://kanolabs.com/

If I’m not mistaken, in my 73, the heavy red wire connects to a heavy blue wire that is powered by the accessory position on the key switch. This comes from the accessory relay on the 73 and supplies power to the fan. I have a 72 and 73 heater wireing harness and I believe they are the same.

I'm putting together my 1973 240Z and I have just discovered I'm missing the bracket that mounts the console to the transmission tunnel close to the radio. Can anyone help me locate one? I could make something up but would much rather have the original part. Thanks....

There ia a wiring diagram on this site that may help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=3 Its under downloads on the right side of the home page. Hope it helps.

Thanks Blue, this make sense. I will look and see if I can figure out where i can put in O rings or how i can seal the auxiliary venturis.

Hi all, the car seem to run well. It's not on the road so I just run it in the driveway on the weekends as I put it back together. It should be on the road in the next week or two and I don’t like gas leaks. I put new gaskets in the carb's and cleaned them as well as I could this past winter. The car has not been on the road for 29 years but the refresh is almost complete. They dripped a little from the intake the day I got the Webers brand new in 1978 but it never stopped me then. In my old age I do not want to drive it with any gas leak. When I turn it off for the day I'm getting a slow drip of gas from the air filters. Can anyone help me locate and fix the problem? There is no drip when in use. I'm regulating pressure to 3 or 4 PSI. I put some paper towel under the carbs so I could see where it was coming from. It stops quickly when the carb's run out of gas. All three of them do it.

Thank you.....

I know the information is here but I find conflicting information. Will 225/60/14’s rub? I have a late 73 240Z with a stock suspension (poly bushings and Bilstien shocks) and nice old slotted wheels. 0 offset 6 inch wide. The valance is gone and I have an airdam. Is this a good choice?

I'm glad you made this post. I will see if I can find a tool that will do the job. It is a good idea to make the hoses. I'm sure I will take more care then most hose shops to make them fit the way I want them to fit. I have used a lot of crimp tools over the years for electrical items but didn't think about making the hoses until I read your post.

Very cool. If the tool is for sale let me know. I have a new AC kit for my 240 and I do not like the hoses at all. I didn't think of making them, I was going to go to a custom hose shop. I learn from this site all the time. Thank you....

Thank you very much. I don't have the bottle so looks like an oil change (again)

I will look for the bottle. If I cant find it I will change it again to make sure. I love my old Z. Thanks foir the input. It will say G-L5 on the bottle or should I look for something else on the lable?

Thanks Blue. Its not GL-5. Its castrol synthetic gear oil.

Sorry, I found it... I have parts from 3 71 and 72 parts cars. I have alot of parts. I found it in a box marked 72.

I didn't know synthetic oil was bad for my transmission. I just changed the oil to synthetic. Should i change it again?

I am finally putting together the interior of my late 73 240 and cannot fine one part of the seatbelt. I have put a picture of the part from the driver’s side (left side) but need the one from the passenger side (right side). Does anyone have one they can sell me?