ironhelix

I tend to keep everything, but I'll let you know you if I decide to sell them.

Thanks for the advice. I'll be sure everything is aligned, top and bottom.

Marty, how much do you want for them? I have a perfect pair lost somewhere in my garage, which I'll look for again in a day os two. The ones on my z now are louvered. They're in great condition but I want to go back to a more original look.

I didn't realize that. I bought my z used in '76 and it already had black undercoating on the underbody and wheel wells. I'll talk to the shop about this concern. They do photographically document the full restoration process for the owner.

Okay, that makes sense. I just hate to cut springs by trial and error. I wish there was a less stiff spring set out there than the Eibach's I presently have. I suspect Eibach has changed the design since I purchased mine back in the day. Each spring has a stack of about 6 coils that are nearly touching. I suspect they would be better described as a dual rate spring. The Mulholland springs and struts I had were a great setup. Some one should offered a design like them.

Good points. I've always had good results with Courtesy so I'll just stick with them when I can.

I have a set of Euro Springs I bought 15 years ago, and everything I've read says I need to cut them. However, looking at the specs for the standard and euro springs, I shouldn't have to. Here are the specs I have for both: I could not get the table to format properly. I hope you can still make sense of it. European Spring Stock (from 72 manual} RH Front 54010-E4107 54010-E4104 Spring constant: 100.795lb/in 83.000lb/in Inside diameter: 3.937in 3.937in Free length: 13.031in 14.700in installed height/load 7/604in/lb 8/604in/lb Loaded length: 7.008in 8.000in Typical loading: 604.067lb 604.000lb Wire diameter 0.442in 0.417in Active turns of coil 8.500coils 8.500coils Coil turns 9.500coils 10.000coils LH Front 54010-E4106: 54010-E4102 Spring constant: 100.795lb/in 83.000lb/in Inside diameter: 3.937 in 3.937 in Free length: 13.031in 15.200in installed height/load 7/560 in/lb 8/562 in/lb Loaded length: 7.008 in 8.000 in Typical loading: 559.974lb 562.000lb Wire diameter 0.442 in 0.417 in Active turns of coil 8.500 coils 8.500 coils Coil turns 9.500 coils 10.000coils Rear 55020-E4201: 55020-E4102 Spring constant: 115.915lb/in 103.600lb/in Inside diameter: 3.937 in 3.937 in Free length: 14.016in 14.500in installed height/load 8.86/653 8.4/635in/lb Loaded length: 8.858 in/lb 8.400 in Typical loading: 652.568in 635.000lb Wire diameter 0.460 in 0.449 in Active turns of coil 8.500 coils 8.500coils Coil turns 9.750 coils 10.650coils Based on this chart, The euro front springs should be 1" shorter when loaded, the rear should be ~0.5" longer. Perch heights should have nothing to do with the loaded length of the springs. The load numbers are close for both spring sets, especially the front. What am I missing here?

Thanks for the reminder, and I'll talk to the shop about that problem. I removed all of the undercoating and didn't find much rust, but there is some around the frame rails. I treated some rust around and inside one of the frame rails about 20 years ago with a POR15 kit. I was amazed that the repair still looked pretty good. AutoWorks in Loomis, Ca, is doing the body restoration and paint. 70% of their work is restorations, and I'm very impressed by the quality of their work. They're doing complete rust treatment and repair, and spraying the underside and wheel wells with Wurth undercoating. The car should outlive me. 8-)

You're probably right about the dealer databases just not being up-to-date. I suspect Courtesy's database is probably one of the most accurate ones when it come to s30's. I do have Banzai MW and Black Dragon identified for numerous parts already. Looks like I'll have to depend on them even more. Its too bad, since some of the sites like g35parts.com, an Infinity dealer, have relatively reasonable prices listed. I may place an order with them just to see what happens. My z is being media-blasted this week so most parts won't be needed for at least a month or two.

Don't think I'll need it after all since I managed to resolve most questions already. Thanks for the response.

Unfortunately, Courtesy Nissan has listed many of the parts I need as NLA. Several websites, such as NissanPartsZone.com, g35parts.com, and a couple of others appear to have most of the parts available. An example part is the battery inspection lid, 63200-E4102. I don't want to place a large order and be disappointed. I would appreciate any comments or recommendations.

Does anyone have part numbers or a source for the rubber trim/bumpers for the exterior door handles? Mine are falling apart. Thanks, Dave

My 72 240z is being hauled away tomorrow for media blasting, refinishing, and paint. I'm creating a spreadsheet of parts to order, most of which I plan to purchase from Nissan. The best source I've found for identifying the part numbers is CarPartsManual.com, but I'm hoping there is a site with better drawings available. The detail on some of their drawings can be a bit sketchy. An example is trying to identify all of the parts for the door strikers on the body using their drawing. Any suggestions/recommendations? Dave

Thanks, I'm glad I asked. Looks like I have another part to order...

Just what I wanted to hear (see?). Thanks. Also looking forward to stopping the speedometer cable leak with the new seals.

Thanks for the help. The pinion and 2 new seals were $31 shipped. I'm still a little concerned about the pinion being a larger diameter. The engineer in me says the gears should bind. Is my concern unwarranted?

I have a late model 280zx 5speed and a 4:11 diff in my 240z and I'd like to correct the speedometer error (~10% high). A 20-tooth (red) pinion is needed but I'm having difficulty finding one. Courtesy only stocks up to the 19-tooth, which I now have. Any suggestions where to obtain one? Are there any other issues I should be aware of besides having to drain the trans first?

Thanks for the link. I'll probably have to go through the same process.

I'm nervous about cutting the Euro Stage I springs. Two threads I found had different recommendations: one says cut the front 1 turn and the rear 1 1/2 turns, the other recommends 1 turn in the front and none in the rear. I believe both suggested this would result in approximately stock ride height. I do not want to ruin these springs. Anyone have experience modifying these springs for a U.S. 240z? This post should probably be a new thread...

Thanks for the responses. I found several good threads by Carl Beck about the Euro springs. I definitely don't want to raise the car a couple of inches. 8-) I made an error in my original post. I actually have Tokico HP struts (found the warranty card) and was considering replacing them with the KYBs to reduce the firmness. Does anyone know the Tokicos and KYBs compare?

I'm going to replace my Eibach springs with a set of European springs that I bought years ago. Since my primary goal is to improve the ride, I suspect that the KYB GR-2 shocks are a bigger factor. I've read other threads that suggest illuminas and koni adjustable shocks are pretty stiff even on their lowest settings. Any recommendations for less firm shocks?