Kevin Livesey

I found the problem to be gasket material in the injector orifices of 2 cylinders partially blocking them. Seemed to run fine after being cleared out.

Hi, I have a Fairlady Z(similar to the 280Z but with L20E 6cylinder) with the engine overhauled and running the original fuel injection. The car seems to be under powered. The car is running really smooth from idle to the red line but does not seem to have much power. All the fuel injection and ignition components except the injectors on the engine had been swapped out with no difference in the way it runs. I am wondering about the original catilytic converter maybe restricting my power. Can I just remove it and what about the sensor from it? Can I fit 280 fuel injectors instead of the 2L ones. Also what else can I do to up the power without doing an engine transplant.

I need help with my car. I started a new thread as the other was becoming too long. My main issue is that the car underwent a 7 year restoration. The engine was dismantelled, fitted with new rings bearings and gaskets. Ever since it's been reassembled it is hesitant to accelerate from any RPM low or high and hot or cold. It idles really smooth and is also smooth at any constant RPM. It also idles high when cold but fine when hot. I have already swapped out the coil, plugs, leads, distributor and cap, checked all the vacuum lines, changed the thermotime and water sensors, changed the ecu, cleaned all the electric terminals and adjusted the idle and mixture screws. All of this made no difference to the hesitation. i've also installed a new fuel filter.

I,ve changed the thermotime and the water sensors. This made no change. Yes the idle is fine when the engine is warm. When the engine is cold it takes about 10 minutes to warm up with the idle being about 1500rpm and slowly working it's way down. I removed the cold start valve(auxilliary air valve) which is below the throttle body and tested it outside the car and found it to works fine. It takes the time to close it normally takes for the engine to warm up. I do find it annoying to wait 10 minutes though idling at 1500rpm. I just thought that 1500rpm idle when cold was too high. This valve heats up electrically and can only fully close when fully heated and does not rely on any sensors.

Hi, this engine is fuel injected and does not have a choke, when warm the idle is good, but there is a hesitation when accelerating.

Hi Andrew, I have consulted the 280z fuel injection bible. The components and diagram in it is slightly different to the system on my car, ie-mine does not have the auxilliary air valve or the cold start valve. It is worth mentioning that my car is a Jap import with a 2 liter motor. I have played around with the Idle screw- it does make a difference to the idle, but I cannot get it below 1500rpm when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot, the engine will quit when I adjust the screw closed too far. I have also adjusted the forbidden mixture screw on the AFM, but with it closed completely and the idle screw closed completely the car still idles at 1500rpm when cold. I will change the thermo and water sensors as well. I appreciate your help.

Hi All, I have a bit more time for browsing as my 1979 Fairlady Z is back on the road after a 7- year ground up restoration. I do have 1 issue though: The engine will not idle below 1500 rpm when the engine is cold. It also has a hesitation when accelerating with the engine cold or hot. It had been dismantelled and re-assembled with new rings, bearings and gaskets. I've fitted new vacuum hoses, cleaned all the electric terminals and also swapped all of the following as a means of trying to find the fault by trial and error: Distributor, plugs and leads, airflow meter, fuel regulator, ecu and fuel filter. My next step is the bcdd valve. I am really keen on solving the problem so I can enjoy my car the way it is meant to be. Please feel free to give me some advice.

Hi all, I have just installed my overhauled engine in my 200Z( same as 280Z ). Initially the engine started and I got it to run to an exceptable level, idling smoothly. It does have a hesitation though when it is warm only when you press the accelerator. After a couple of times running I turned it off and it refuses to crank over with the ignition key turned to start. The problem I have is that the Exhaust temperature light has come on and my repair manual tells me that if this happens the catalytic converter hold relay would need to be reset before the starter would get power to turn the engine again. The manual show me where it (the hold relay) is, but it does not say how to reset it. PLEASE HELP!