Stovepipe

Nice build. I went with a Rebello 3.0L stroker with ported SUs three years ago, and still have the grin on my face. I had it dyno'd because I wanted some semblance of a performance guarantee before it shipped (I'm in Canada and on the other side of the continent) and because they had the carbs and distributor (with Petronix) they could tune it on the dyno and I'd not have to fiddle with it. I've not changed anything on the setup since it shipped to me 3 years and 8000 miles ago. With his 63DI cam and pacesetter header it made 280hp at 7000rpm. But most importantly, the torque curve is nearly flat with nearly 250ft-lbs from 4k (the lowest rpm he measures on the dyno) through 6k. This is a very tractable setup that has great midrange punch and pulls hard to 7200. You will love this motor around town. I went with a Fidanza flywheel from Motorport and an ACT clutch. Very happy with both. I'd be reluctant to have your flywheel lightened because I have seen them come apart. I had planned to run the stock mechanical fuel pump but they didn't build the motor with the eccentric installed on the cam nose. So I installed a Holley electric back by the tank. The wiring for the pump was actually present on my 1/70 built series 1, and after I wiped off 40 years of road grime, the wires actually worked! As was mentioned, the SUs don't need much fuel pressure to keep the bowl full. Dave recommended 3-4psi for me. I still run rich. I have a 3.90 rear end and 5 speed and I get barely 12mpg. I'd go with a CDI ignition like Crane or MSD. I found a noticeable improvement in throttle response. I went with the AZC radiator and new hoses. New alternator and belts. New high capacity starter is a good investment too. Get good plug wires and NGK B8ES plugs is what Dave recommended for my build. While you're in there, I would change everything previously mentioned plus your heater core hoses. I have over 8000 miles on my Rebello including track days, and done nothing but oil changes. It has been dead reliable. People hear it idle they think because of the cam lope it's a V8, but once you open it up it just sounds like a very angry six. And it is. You will love it. Phil

Yep, I reversed the calipers when I put them back on. I switched them back and re-bled them and now they work great, and the light is out. Thanks guys.

The bleeders are on the bottom of the calipers. I should note i had the weak brakes before removing and rebuilding the calipers (I thought that might be the problem since the car sat for so long, and it did need a new brake piston, but no luck curing the problems). Thanks for the reply Walter.

I just got my car back together after a motor swap (1970 240z). Let me begin by saying my brakes worked fine last year when I parked the car. I had the front lines, MC, and booster out of the car for an engine bay repaint, and everything went back in when done. Now after re-assembly, the brakes are weak. High pedal effort is required for even moderate stopping power. The pedal is fairly hard without spongyness, but it does have longer travel, and there is less than half normal braking power when i push as hard as I can. In addition, the brake warning light on the dash comes on with anything more than light effort on the pedal, so basically anytime the pedal is depressed. I've read about what that means but I have not been able to find the cause of the pressure differential that would cause the light to come on, but I naturally believe this to be part of the problem. So far I have done the following: bled and re-bled the MC and then the lines in proper order, rebuilt the front calipers with new pistons/seals, and took apart the booster in search of the elusive reaction disc. It's still in its bore, where it's supposed to be. The check valve in the vacuum line from the manifold is installed the right way and works fine. The rear drum pistons are not seized. There are no leaks in the hydraulic system that I can see. Any suggestions on what is wrong? Thanks, Phil

Bear with me guys. First Z-car, first engine swap, finished at midnight last night. Is the engine supposed to lean that far to the passenger side, or did I mix up the engine mounts?

Mine arrived Monday, so probably any day now, if you didn't already get it. Thanks Dave!

The car drives great, no issues. Thanks for the good feedback. I've seen a lot of pictures of cars with the "perfect" stance and mine just seems a bit off. I guess I'll just have to get used to it. Cheers, Phil

I also wanted to clarify that when I installed the springs I installed Tokico Illuminas all the way around. And yes, the pipe-end struts are mounted in the rear.

I've installed my eibach springs with part number 001 (the longer, less progressive springs) in the front, and part #002 with the shorter, more progressive springs in the rear. As per pics in post 21 in this thread. This is the fender gap I still have after 100 plus miles of driving: There is a fender gap of about 2" from top of tire to bottom of fender on the front, and maybe 3/4" gap in the rear. It really makes me question whether I need to swap the springs front to rear because it looks so nose-high. But that's contrary to most of the postings I've read. Who's got Eibachs installed with the tighter, shorter springs in the front, and what does the ride height look like? Can anyone else chime in on this? It's frustrating to think I'd have to take this apart and do it again, but it just doesn't look right to me. Thanks, Phil

Thanks Dave. So what would be a realistic timeline for these to be ready to ship? Phil

Timing is everything. I just put the Z up on jackstands earlier tonight to swap the clunking old mount for an OEM replacement, because I didn't know when another R/T mount group buy would be coming around. Glad I checked the board tonight. Dave, put me down for one please. thanks, Phil

Hi guys, I'm working thru some electrical issues with my new-to-me 1970 240z. Most were related to old, frayed wiring. The one issue remaining is my right rear signal light doesn't light up. The right front does, and so does the dashboard arrow. Brake lights and parking lights all work fine. Possibly a problem with contacts in the signal stalk? thanks, Phil