Lani Kai

Hmm, it appears to have fixed itself. Thanks though.

I was driving today in my '78 280Z and all was well, but after I briefly switched on the hazards, the indicator switch no longer works. Pressing the hazard button still makes the lights blink, and the headlight dip still works so the stalk itself is still functional... Fuses seemed fine as well. I'm guessing it will be something simple and silly, but does anyone have any idea what would be causing this? Thanks

Thanks! TPS: Inspected with cover off, seems to be working fine. Tests OK at ECU connector. CTS: Replaced. Tests OK at ECU connector for the given temperatures. CSV: Replaced. Verified that it is not stuck open when not connected. AFM: Replaced. Rebuilt unit from MSA. CTS wiring: ECU connector tests don't suggest any problems. Haven't ripped the wiring apart to see if anything has been added, but it doesn't look like it's been touched in the past. FPR: Tested fuel pressure at rail and verified 35psi It's running a bit better than before as I think some of the carbon buildup has burned off.

Also, I just removed the old ECU from the car (previously, I hadn't bothered removing it from the bracket while I tested the new one). Carved on the back side of the ECU with a knife or something was the word "BAD" I wish I was making this up.

Yeah... So I was just going to post that... It was indeed out of gas. Now it runs pretty strong but needs some timing work. Also runs pretty rich.

I think there's been a slight misunderstanding. While the engine started and stopped running, the new ECU is perfectly fine. It still lights up Christmas lights as if it were December, so I don't think it's been fried or anything. My current problem lies elsewhere.

Well, I went and bought a new ECU, and the car started up right away with the CSV unplugged, which is something that I've not been able to do in a long time. I also tried the Christmas tree light test and confirmed that the injectors are firing at regular intervals. However, after running for about 20-30 seconds at idle, it just died. After that it started once and died again, this time for a shorter period of time. Now it just cranks and cranks and doesn't start, although I suspect it might be flooded. I'm going to let it sit for a while. In the meantime, I guess I now need to consult the section on troubleshooting for "starts then stalls"?

Oh right, 10 is ECU power.

With ignition to ON, ~12.7V at connectors: 1, 10, 14, 15, 30, 31, 32, 33 1: Coil trigger input 10: Fuel pump? The EFI bible has a test from 10 to 20 as AFM to fuel pump but it's for a 1975 and mine is a 1978. 14, 15, 30, 31, 32, 33: Injectors With ignition to OFF, continuity at connectors to ground: 4, 5, 16, 17, 21, 35 4: Start signal circuit 5, 16, 17, 35: ECU to ground 21: Cold start With ignition to ON, continuity at connectors to ground: 4, 5, 16, 17, 21, 35 Is there anything above that suggests something is awry? Sticking a Christmas tree light in the injector connector and drawing a wire from ECU connector to ground causes the light to turn on. Drawing a wire from coil - post to ground and connecting to ground causes a spark at the wire on every tap, but does not seem to make injectors fire even after more than three taps. Coil is new. Cold start valve is also having problems (always has). It's constantly getting a current and keeps continuously spraying fuel. Previously, when the injectors were working, I had unplugged it because I don't really need it. Right now, the only way the car can start is with the cold start plugged in (the car is running on fuel from the CSV only)

Was doing some testing just now and I'll post what I measured at the harness in a bit, but now everything completely dies when I turn the key to "Start" It won't turn over at all at the moment.

I checked for continuity from #1 to the coil negative and I had continuity. Also, what does "B+" refer to? And thanks for the tip about the Christmas light bulb. I've been testing with a spare injector that I can just hold up to my ear, but a light would probably be a little easier.

I'm looking around, but haven't found one yet. Anyone in Orange County, CA that can help me out? Yes, I'm getting spark and the tachometer is connected and working.

My injectors are not firing, so I've done some tests... TL;DR: Has my ECU gone bad? Tested at the ECU harness, and each injector connection reads the proper voltage when grounded. Tested at the individual injector connectors, and read the proper voltage as well. Manually fired the injectors by grounding each corresponding terminal on the ECU connector. Turned ignition to "ON" and heard each injector click. Checked the ground circuits on the ECU harness, and all were fine. Basically, wiring from ECU to injectors tested OK, and wiring from ECU to ground tested OK. I've read that ECU failures are pretty unlikely, but all evidence seems to suggest that it may be at fault. Are there any flaws in my logic, and is there anything else I should test before buying a new unit?

I'm suspecting my air flow meter has gone bad. The car is running rich and occasionally stutters at high RPM, generally past 4,000. I've looked at just about everything else that factors into setting the fuel mix but I want confirmation before replacing the AFM because it's not a cheap part and only available on a core-exchange basis from MSA. Is there anyone in Orange County, CA with a healthy AFM that I can borrow and test before I needlessly spend money? I'd reimburse you for gas costs and provide a beer or something

Yup, I've studied the FSM and the EFI manuals quite a bit over the last couple of years.