Lani Kai

I live about half an hour away, so I go there every now and then to pick up parts that I need. Admittedly they can be a bit expensive sometimes, but often they're the only place that has the part that I need. They've been pretty helpful and friendly for the most part, although I was left hanging once when my backordered part kept getting delayed and delayed until I finally gave up and canceled. I don't think it was their fault that they were unable to get the part, but I think the communication could have been a bit better.

Yeah, I replaced the rubber lines with braided SS lines because the old ones looked pretty bad.

Is there anything that suggests there may be an issue with the MC, or am I correct in guessing it's probably fine? The pedal does not sink.

How do I see/feel if the disc has fallen without removing the booster from the car? I don't have any noticeable fluid leaks, but I will look in to that. I'm in Southern California so hopefully I don't have a terrible amount of rust.

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to try completely flushing out the old brake fluid first, and thoroughly bleeding it. Who knows how old the fluid in there is... I know the reaction disc falling out is a definite possibility, although I'd like to think it isn't because the booster is a newly remanufactured unit. It's just that the contortionist stuff I have to do in the footwell to unlink the booster from the brake pedal is something I'd rather avoid. As for the check valve, I suppose that's what I will look into replacing if the first two don't work, if it's something that doesn't commonly fail.

Here are the symptoms: -When engine is not running, the brake pedal feels firm. -When engine is started, brake pedal is light. Giving it a few pumps makes it a bit better. -There is a bit of play in the pedal when the engine is running. -The brakes are weak, but not spongy. Replacing the booster improved it somewhat. Here is what I've done to the brakes so far: -Replaced brake booster with a remanufactured one (old one was leaking from the shell). -Replaced brake lines with braided stainless steel lines. -Bled master cylinder -Bled brake lines, rear first. What's the diagnosis?

I'm in the middle of installing and those are the part numbers I have. Before I read this I second-guessed myself because the front ones were so loose that they had me worried. I tried putting the shorter ones in the rear (since some have suggested that the longer ones go in the front), but even with the wheels down the spring is still loose, so I guess I will put it back in the front. I know I'm quoting an old post here, but how snug are the shorter springs when the car is lowered? I'm guessing the car will settle down a bit but right now there's a bit of wiggle room even with the wheels on the ground.

Thanks for your help! I'm not sure why I left the fuel rail in the picture...

I found a bunch of brackets in a bin. Can anyone tell me what these are and, if it turns out I don't need them, does anyone want them?

I tried this and it fired right up. It must have quite a ridiculous leak. Thanks!

I have a 1978 280Z into which I recently swapped a rebuilt L28 engine. It took me over a month to get the car started, and to be honest I'm not sure how I fixed it. One day I walked into the garage, turned the key, and it fired right up. The trouble is, the car won't start or run with the fuel injectors plugged in. I had replaced the injectors not long before replacing the engine, so I'm fairly certain they didn't all get stuck open at the same time. Currently, the car starts with the injectors unplugged and the cold start valve plugged in. If I plug in the injectors or unplug the cold start, the car will not start. The idle is a bit high right now and the engine does not want to rev past 2,000rpm. While idling, the car remains running with injectors AND cold start unplugged. Plugging the injectors in lowers the RPM. With three injectors plugged in, the car is barely running and spitting out black smoke from the exhaust. Did all of my injectors simultaneously get stuck when I did an engine swap, or have I accidentally created a car that runs on no fuel? Or is there somewhere else I should be looking?

Well, I dropped the oil pump and re-aligned the drive spindle. I think it was off by a tooth or two. It doesn't backfire now but it still won't start.

Firing order is correct. I was hoping it would be something as simple as that, but it wasn't... I'm pretty sure the distributor is installed properly. If it were 180 degrees out it wouldn't start or backfire at all, would it? Is it safe to assume the timing is too advanced? I can't think of how retarded timing could cause intake backfire.

Yes, it's EFI. I haven't been able to get it to the point where it warms up yet. Basically, it backfires before I let go of the key to stop cranking.

I have a 1978 280Z in which I have just completed installing a rebuilt L28 engine. I had the hardest time getting it to start after the swap (it would turn over but wouldn't fire) but today, I finally got it to fire. Well, sort of. before it reached idle RPM, it backfired badly out of the intake. I checked that my firing order is correct, and that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 plug tower at TDC. I tried adjusting timing by rotating the distributor within the movable range, but it backfired at both ends. Suggestions? EDIT: I just realized I got the "Help me" and "Getting help" sections mixed up. Could an admin kindly move the thread over?