Bizza

Ive installed my central locking into my 76 zed myself. The only thing i found hard was where to place the unit inside the door. The trick was to have the bracket bolted with the door handle to the panel. Even then it was hard for me to move around. Wether the central locking triggers the other lock just depends on the adjustment. I don't know exactly how big your unit is but mine was the regular type. Ever considered a proffesional to install it for you?

have you got pictures of the larger one?

Also when i turn on the turning signals the volt meter goes up and down with it. Is this normal for the zeds or is that more proof that the circutry is stuffed.

Well there is some white acid around the female multiconnector where the white wire plugs into. I'll give that a go. Does anyone know the purpose of the circular adjustment?

Hi guys, My old battery was boiling out acid. It's been replaced with a new one and the same thing is happening. My volt meter is also jumping and the lights brighten up when i rev the car. Im now looking at the VR. It doesn't look like the original type which was mechanical. It's the solid state type as shown on the attached pic. I can't see any fried wires or corrosion (unless it's right inside) so im assuming the vr is ok. But i would like to do a test but i don't have a clue where to start. Can you guys please give me some guideline on how to test these, there's a black, green, red, blue, white, and yellow wires. The Haynes manual is pretty much no help because they talk about the original VR and the wiring colour is different. Also, the white round object on the pic can be rotated. I thingk these is some sort of adjustment?

It won't hurt if you fill to the top. Any excess will just slip into the tube and into the chamber and get burnt.

I found it hard to remove myself. Use a sufficient size pliers and rotate it up and down as JEFF mentioned as you try to pull the assembly out. For some reason i found it easier to plug in than plug out. Another thing, make sure you don't grip on the thread as you rotate the pliers or pull the cable. I pulled mine and couldn't get it back in the speedo.

ok here's two. Zextras and Zworx both in melbourne. Michael form zextras provides parts and Warren from zworx rebuilds them and sells them to Japan.

Ive got the same problem. Ok this is how it all started. I was fixing the leak in the speedo driven gear and while i was doing that i pulled the cable that leads to the speedometer. I thingk i pulled it too much and pulled away from it. Now i know it can still work because ive connected a battery drill to the end of the cable, turned it on and the bloody thing went back to life! after thingking it was all good ive cnnected the driven gear back to the tranny and gave her a drive and you guessed it - the gauge did not move a micron:( . So i thought maybe the cable needs more pushing to get it into gear with the speedometer and it should be sweet again:ermm: . but it didn't:cry: . Now imagine how your reaction would after jacking up the car for ten times knowing that your gonna fix the thing:tapemouth . OK my question is does anybody know how to fix the faulty speedo without having to remove the dash board? I don't mind driving without the speedo, but once my dad finds out that it's not working i won't be able to drive my Zed and you all can imagine how that's like.

The reverse feed function (well thats what id like to call it) is engraved on the shaft inside the driven gear. picture it more like a thread. That threads prupose is to splash back the oil back into the sump once its starts rotating. Now, if its loose it won't work effectively and will leak if its stationary. Ive had the same problem. At first i thought it was the worn out gasket in my Zed but that only stops dirt getting inside the tranny. If you pull the gear in two pieces you'll see engraved thread on it. After getting that fixed i got myself into another problem :tapemouth . Do not pull the cable!!! I pulled mine and now the speedo is N/A. ill be posting a help me thread on that one. oh yes, best thing to do is to replace the driven gear (the shaft and the housing). I thingk they are colour coded for each model. Otherwise you'll just have keep topping it up.

Nice spoiler there sjcurtis. Where did you get yours in Australia?

I have twin jaguar su in my z (soon to be changed to round tops) and i need to change the filter box cause the old one is stuffed (more like moded with holes). So, can someone please tell me where i can get an air filter kit to fit in these carbs.

Check the speedo driven gear for play. You should not be able to wiggle it at all or else the reverse feed function will not work, hence the transmision leak.

It sounds like the problem i used to have with my old celica. I sometimes don't hear it, but when i do it's usually in cold weather and i can feel my steering wheel thumping as that clicking sound progresses. I found the problem behind the front left hub. The bolts that connects the hub to the shaft was loose and was scrubbing against the disc as it turns. Quick check would be to remove the wheels and wiggle the hub and bit away and towards you. If that is your problem make sure you change both the bearings and the bearing housing also. good luck!:classic:

have u got front bumpers, gear boot cover, the cover for the neam across the ceiling. and spare mechanical parts?

I'm 19 turning 20. :classic:

I personally thingk the car looks good compared to other modern sports cars, but it doesn't stand a chance on the original Z. Lets face it 240Z is a 240Z. No new cars that claims to be a Z can ever make me (or some of us) like it better than the 240Z, otherwise it's not a Z- just a better car. But the 350z looks good to me. I thingk they should not call it 350z rather 350zx or a 350zxt (toad) because it seems to be an insult to say that it's as pure as a Z. Also...... is there anyone here from Australia selling a 240Z or a 260Z (2 seater). Please PM me i still don't have one:(

Hey that 250 gto was on sale here in aus not too long ago. the body was a replica that can go on a 240z chasis. I can tell cause it had same set of wheels and the background was the same too and he was selling it for i thingk $6g's. What a wanker!

I'm not sure about the Gullwing looking like a 240z or a 200gt. It's got some smooth curves but i can't see it happening. The Fairlady roadster..yeah in a way. where you trying to say that gullwing has fetures of a 240z??

i wonder if he knows how to use the internet.

ok let me get this right... Mr Matsuo drew what Goertz had in mind?? Yes this is a big issue, to bad i will never know what really happened cause everyone had the story mixed up before i was even born. Most books i've read implies that Goertz was the designed the 240z, but other books tell me that it was a result of a successful project put up by a group of Japanese. But lets face it.. the three cars (240z, 507 & 2000GT) have a lot in common, thus this favour the possibilty that Goertz desinged or had something to do with them all, you decide. Lets say that what Alan says is true ( i thingk it is), Mr Matsuo's group did design the 240z, but still got their ideas from Goertz.

Finally someone got it right! Through research i heard that 2000GT and the 240z's are very similar (obviuslY). I sure wish that Goeartz had made his own cars.